Shabbir Hussain wins 2023 Silk Route Ultra

A dramatic victory for Tsering Yangzam

Rigzin Gyurmeth wins Khardung La Challenge; Namgyal Lhamo tops among women

Amit Gulia is first non-Ladakhi runner to secure sub-17 hours-finish in Silk Route Ultra

The evening of September 6 was a reality check for the runners gathered at Kyagar in Ladakh’s Nubra Valley, ahead of commencement of the 2023 Silk Route Ultra (SRU).

In store was 122 kilometres of running over one of the world’s highest motorable passes along a road that has more gradients than flats, the whole thing set in an ambiance of unpredictable mountain weather and the effort of working at high altitude. Prior to leaving Leh for Kyagar, the local weather had shown signs of the season beginning to switch. After weeks of pretty warm weather, there had been a shift to slightly cool evening breeze with grey clouds gracing the peaks of the nearby Ladakh Range. People in Leh said it hinted of the weather beginning to change. In Kyagar, the evenings additionally featured strong, chilly winds. There was worry on what it may hold for the late evening race-start scheduled for September 7 and more critically, how the weather may be, as one ran up the several kilometres of gradient to Khardung La (17,618 feet).

Held as they are at altitude, most races within the Ladakh Marathon (the 122 km-SRU and the 72 km-Khardung La Challenge, are part of it) tend to favour Ladakhi athletes who are naturally efficient at handling altitude. For those coming from outside, the attraction is precisely that of being an outsider, preparing well to handle hill runs, acclimatizing patiently to Ladakh’s high altitude and finding out how well one tackles the test of endurance taken up. Partly due to the natural advantages the hosts possess, the commencement of the Silk Route Ultra (it was into its second edition in 2023) was done in two stages. The race’s elite contingent, typically comprising of Ladakhi runners (mostly serving in the military) began their run one and a half hours after the rest of the field set out at 7PM. The logic was that if everyone ran together, the Ladakhis would open up too big a gap with the rest of the field for logistics, race management and monitoring to be done properly. While this may seem just, the truth is, the Ladakhi runners don’t quite enjoy the late start. As more than one of them said, it is boring to be race-ready and wait in a small group for the run to commence after everyone else has left.

Hakim, who was part of the organizers, was due to trail the elite team till SRU merged into the much larger flow of Khardung La Challenge (KC) runners starting the race from Khardung village. KC was slated to commence at 3AM on September 8. This writer found a seat in Hakim’s vehicle. The 2023 SRU was happening with a backlog of improvements to make. As mentioned in an earlier article, it is not an easy race. Although, it is only 122 kilometres long (not very long for an ultra) and is merely an extension of KC from its start line by another 50 kilometres, given altitude and mountain terrain, that additional distance suffices to tire people. Many wither away. Runners themselves told this blog that fairly easy eligibility to participate and a misconstrued perception of SRU as just an extension of KC, caused mismatch in expectation and actual outcome, provoking disappointment. For some, this is what happened in the inaugural edition of the race in 2022. At least a few, had come back in 2023 to try their luck again. Raj Vadgama had committed the error of running the early portion of the 2022 race, fast. Amisha Jain had experienced altitude sickness.

That year, there were also complaints of aid stations being too spaced apart and some items the runners would have loved to see included (warm water being one), absent in the support on offer. In 2022, Amit Gulia had seen the energy gels he brought along for SRU, thicken in consistency in the bitter cold of high altitude. Consumed during the race, the gel stuck to his throat. He wanted warm water to wash it down. But it wasn’t available. Amit who completed the 2022 Spartathlon after his aborted run at the year’s SRU was back for the 2023 edition. Kyagar and the accommodation facilities provided ahead of the 2023 race offered the calm any participant would seek prior to a race. The runners headed into the race spent time differently. Some appeared to prefer self-time and were rarely seen. The more gregarious lot indulged in conversation and banter. The runners from Ladakh Scouts and the Indo Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) walked around, indulged in the occasional game of table tennis and rested. Ace runner, Shabbir Hussain, rested a lot. Notwithstanding this portrait of life from Kyagar, the countdown to the race’s start on September 7 was laced with avoidable uncertainty. The culprit was the pre-race medical check-up. It got delayed. There was also confusion on the timing of the pre-race lunch at one of the hotels. The runners sorted it out. At 5PM, there was a race briefing where Chewang Motup, race director of the Ladakh Marathon, informed that the distance between SRU aid stations had been reduced and items like warm water would be made available at some of the stations. The aid stations had also been provided bright solar lights; it lights up the immediate surroundings and makes the stations visible from far. Motup emphasized safety in terms of managing altitude and asked the runners to be mindful of sections featuring road-work in progress.

At 7PM, it seemed to be a positive, upbeat lot of runners who commenced running from Kyagar as the first SRU batch. Phunchok Tashi, runner from ITBP, who at 47 was among the older participants (and a fine person to talk to), had to sit out the race because his blood pressure was found to be high. He had placed sixth among men in the 2022 inaugural edition of SRU. Tashi, who hails from Sakti village near Leh, felt the potential outcome of the 2023 race couldn’t be predicted with absolute certainty. Shabbir Hussain, 29, was the strongest runner in the elite field. He was also the more experienced, having run and got podium finishes in KC multiple times before and placed second in the 2022 SRU. But both Stanzen Phuntsog, 26, and Tsewang Kundan, 23, had age on their side. Stanzen was the bronze medallist from 2022 SRU while Kundan was bronze medallist from 2022 KC.

All three of them represented a unique Ladakhi opportunity in running and also an ongoing dilemma; a glass ceiling to break. As denizens of altitude, Ladakhis enjoy good endurance. Comparatively weak in speed, their showing in the classical marathon – it is a blend of speed and endurance – has been a mixed bag. While outsiders struggle to run in Ladakh’s rarefied atmosphere (high altitude means lower oxygen level), the Ladakhis have their own struggle coping with the heat, humidity and intense competition of the Indian plains. The partiality to endurance appeared reflected in Shabbir’s choice. Years ago, he ran Ladakh’s annual marathon just like that and had won it. His preference thereafter wasn’t to stick to the marathon; he shifted to the longer, endurance-busting ultramarathon. Asked if Ladakhi female athlete, Jigmet Dolma, who elected to focus on the marathon had done a brave thing, Shabbir said yes. Her decision is a shift away from the Ladakhi (maybe mountain) choice of endurance over speed. But therein lay a problem.

Thanks to the compulsions of media and broadcasting (which generate millions in revenues for broadcasters and sport organizers worldwide), the appetite of huge sporting spectacles like the Olympics is limited to the marathon when it comes to endurance events in athletics. Television will not risk boring audiences with extended formats of sporting events. It is a paradigm that has only grown tighter thanks to the onset of our generation of impatient audiences demanding quick results. The Olympics in turn shapes choice of sports and training, at national level. It is a known fact that the ultramarathon which can span several hours, does not enjoy the same patronage as the marathon, in India’s sports establishment. Consequently, even within institutions encouraging sports, like the military, the ultramarathon is an outlier in imagination dominated by focus on disciplines at the Olympics. Many, enamoured by the Ladakhi capacity to handle altitude, suggest that they embrace the marathon. But they overlook the nature of the marathon and its history of sterling athletes found in the mid altitudes. It is a transition the Ladakhis used to high altitude must figure out, how to bridge. Shabbir, who works for the army, has a training calendar that revolves mainly around one event – the ultramarathons of the Ladakh Marathon. He is not seen at other ultramarathons in India although ultramarathoners from elsewhere have a tough time running in Ladakh’s high altitude environment. Which also means, they find it tough to beat this Kargil athlete in his home ground. Shabbir trains mostly by himself with inputs gleaned from his own ultrarunning experience. With no particular interest in their abilities shown by the Army Sports Institute and other similar organizations, Ladakhi elite runners seem to rise and fade in Ladakh itself. It is an existence in running without a proper road map. An exception was the decade-long support for local runners extended by Rimo Expeditions, organizers of the Ladakh Marathon; they fund and send Ladakhi runners to compete in the marathons of the plains.   

At 8.30PM on September 7, there were four elite runners assembled at the SRU start line in Kyagar. There was the race favourite, Shabbir. Giving him company, were the two younger runners – Stanzen and Kundan. All three were from Ladakh Scouts of the Indian Army, the regiment that has traditionally dominated the podium at the Ladakh Marathon. The fourth person at the start line, was Thupten Nyima of the Special Frontier Force (SFF), a regiment composed mostly of Tibetans living in India. In 2022, Thupten had finished eighth among men in SRU. Interestingly, the 2023 edition of the Ladakh Marathon was accompanied by the buzz of various regiments of the army with its runners enrolled in the event, likely to put up keen mutual competition. In pre-race conversations, Shabbir had said when asked, that the Ladakhi runners usually stick together till the final phase of SRU. Into the final stretch, competition amongst them picks up. Within the first 10 kilometres or so of the elites taking off in the 8.30PM late-start, Shabbir and Stanzen set a fast pace with Thupten matching it. This went on for about an hour. Thereafter, Thupten appeared to tire from the fast pace and fell back. Kundan who had kept his own sustainable pace and was trailing the lead group by a sizable margin, slowly narrowed the gap with Thupten. He caught up with the SFF runner, overtook him and thereafter proceeded to close the gap with Stanzen and Shabbir. Eventually, Thupten was left all alone; he looked tired and his pace dropped drastically. For a long time, Hakim in his vehicle moved slowly with Thupten, making sure the runner wasn’t left alone in the pitch black mountain environment. It had been an unexpected development for the race official, one that limited him from proceeding at the pace of the lead pack. He kept checking in with Thupten to gauge how he was feeling. A kilometre or two before Khalsar, Hakim went ahead and dispatched another team back to check on the tired runner.  By then, Thuptan had quit the race; he reached Khalsar in the very same vehicle sent to accompany him. SFF’s continued presence in the men’s category of the race, now stood restricted to 48-year-old mountaineer-runner, Kunchok Tenpa, who in the tradition of senior runners (including locals) running with the 7PM batch, was at that point in time, way ahead.

While Hakim was moving slowly with Thupten on the pre-Khalsar stretch, word had been received that the 7PM batch was making good progress. Past Khalsar, the vehicle began encountering the tail end of this batch. On the climb towards Khardung village, a monasticism characteristic of ultramarathons had come to settle on the runners. Each was in a private cocoon. Some familiar faces – Ashwini Ganapathi, Shikha Pahwa, Brijesh Gajera, Anmol Chandan – went by. In the middle of this long line of runners dispersed on the road in that vast, dark mountain environment, one found the Ladakhi runners. They had caught up with the 7PM batch. Still ahead in the leading portion of this line were the likes of Suman Chettri and Swiss ultrarunner, Maik Becker, and further ahead, Tsering Yangzam, who represented the SFF in the women’s category. As we reached the start point of KC at Khardung village, our assumption till then was that Yangzam signified the head of the line of SRU runners. Hakim’s responsibility was to stay with the race leader and over time shepherd the lead runners of KC (it was bound to move faster than the longer ultramarathon coming in from Kyagar) into Leh. Consequently, when the vehicle left a Khardung getting ready for the start of KC, it was to Yangzam that it gravitated for SRU-leader.

By now, it was quite cold and the course, unrelentingly uphill. Yangzam was moving strongly; mostly jogging with the occasional stint of brisk walking. It seemed an efficient progress. In 2022, Yangzam had been silver medallist among women doing KC and so, her chances in SRU were respected. It was 50 kilometres from Kyagar to Khardung. It meant that past Khardung, somewhere on the approach to North Pullu, Yangzam would be close to the 72 kilometres she had covered for KC. Would that matter? Unfortunately, around the said mark, things began going wrong. Her leg started to hurt and she complained of cramps. Although she kept up the brisk walking, her overall pace slowed down. She hydrated at an aid station, pain-relief spray was used and she also accepted some food. She was in no mood to give up. On the other hand, her halts to relieve the pain were increasing and everything about how she struggled to keep running, pointed to a potential DNF (Did Not Finish). In that time, at least two male runners overtook her. Others were catching up. Here, mention must be made of how local runners (and the SFF lot including Yangzam) approached SRU and KC. None of those born to altitude and competing for regimental glory seemed to like hydration packs. They saw it as an irritating load, a burden weighing them down. Running free and tackling the ultramarathon as they would a marathon, these runners counted on aid stations for hydration and nutrition. On the other hand, most outsiders arrived to run SRU and many in KC, kept themselves self-supported with hydration packs. They used aid stations but carried their own supplies too, as back-up. As Hakim’s vehicle drew into North Pullu, the medical station there manned by the military, was apprised of the struggling SFF runner. From the vehicle, this writer saw military personnel speak to Yangzam but she seemed determined to continue her walk-run to the high pass above. After a chat with folks from the army at North Pullu, she moved on.  

The general belief at this time in our vehicle was that the SRU race leader (as measured by being at the head of the column of runners) was Maik. Somewhere around this time, we had seen a faster moving line of headlamps work its way up the slopes near North Pullu and eventually overtake our parked vehicle. It was the lead pack of KC, an event long dominated by Ladakhi runners, especially personnel from Ladakh Scouts. Starting their race from Khardung village at 3AM, they had caught up with SRU. It was time for us to move further up towards Khardung La. Doing so, along the way, we passed the tall figure of Amit Gulia and realized we had incorrectly assumed for quite some time that Yangzam and thereafter Maik, was the SRU race leader. Amit had opened up such a lead that he held not even a stretched link to the SRU runners behind him. He was off on his own. Much before in the race, when the vehicle was keeping Thupten company in the Kyagar-Khalsar section, we had been informed of Amit being the first to go past Khalsar. Hours later, when we met him in the heights above North Pullu, he was still doing a steady but slightly tired pace and most importantly, distinctly ahead of the rest from SRU’s 7PM and 8.30PM batches. Assuming he kept that lead and finished first in Leh, he would still be up against the 8.30PM-batch of elite runners and their net time to finish. Past Amit, we found the leaders of KC working their way up.

At Khardung La, we paused to talk to Amir Shandiwan, partner at Sports Timing Solutions. He was there in the biting cold of 17,618 feet, with his team and their timing equipment. We learnt there that there was a KC runner further ahead. On the downward slope to South Pullu, we saw him – a runner from the Ladakh Police. His lead was however short-lived; a couple of bends on the road later, we looked back and saw Rigzin Gyurmeth of the army’s special forces catch up with him and grab the lead. Continuing to Leh at a consistent fast pace, Rigzin would win KC in six hours, 31 minutes and 41 seconds. Jigmet Stobdan (6:57:09) secured second position while Sewang Namgyal (6:57:28) placed third. Among women at KC, the first place went to Namgyal Lhamo (8:12:42). Kunzang Lamo (9:29:36) and Tenzing Dolma (9:46:09) followed in second and third positions respectively. But it was two other results – both from SRU – that stood out.

The organizers of SRU and KC deserve credit for one of the most impressive and enjoyable finish lines in India. It is set in Leh’s main market area, which is closed to traffic and is a much loved, well-maintained spot featuring quaint buildings sporting Ladakhi architecture. Adding to the ambiance is the backdrop of being in the mountains and a long blue carpeted alley guiding runners to the finish. It is well done and with the alley lined by cheering people and friends and relatives of the finishers, the final stretch is quite lively and intimate. As the runners crossed the finish line and the medical / recovery tent gained activity, a familiar face was seen helping exhausted athletes. Elevated blood pressure may have prevented Phunchok Tashi from competing in SRU but the ITBP runner volunteered at the finish line, helping fellow runners in the medical / recovery tent. In line with expectations, the winner among men at 2023 SRU, was Shabbir Hussain (15:27:53). Second place went to Kundan (15:53:46) and third to Stanzen (15:57:46). It was a sweep by Ladakh Scouts. Much before this army trio crossed the finish line, another SRU finisher in the male category had arrived – it was Amit Gulia. With a timing of 16:21:25 and fourth place overall, Amit’s was the first sub-17 hours finish by a non-Ladakhi in SRU. It was without doubt an amazing performance and a benchmark to remember for outsiders reaching Ladakh to try their hands at the race. Incidentally, Amit too had reached Leh as part of a trio. He, Rakesh Kashyap and Anmol Chandan were three friends participating in the SRU. Despite his best efforts, Anmol couldn’t complete the race. Beset with a decline in oxygen saturation level, he had to DNF after 66 kilometres. According to him, Rakesh too had to pull out. Still, the most impressive story of the 2023 race lay elsewhere.

As a couple of hours went by at the finish line in Leh without a female finisher for SRU arrived yet, this writer checked with race officials to see if any woman from SRU had passed Mendak Mor, where the race had its penultimate set of timing devices before the finish line in Leh. The young man at the counter went through the data on his laptop and said yes, one female participant of SRU had gone past the time station at Mendak Mor. Incredibly, it was Yangzam. The SFF runner hadn’t given up. Sometime later, she crossed the finish line of SRU in Leh, an utterly happy person. As she sat afterwards in the medical tent, one couldn’t help walking up to her and offering congratulations. From a runner with the odds stacked against her, she had completed SRU, won in her gender category with timing of 19:26:17 and placed eighth overall. Shikha Pahwa (20:12:57) placed second among women and tenth overall. “ The arrangements were very good. No problem at all. Before we reached the start point of KC itself there were about seven aid stations offering water, bananas, sandwiches and electrolyte. Also, there were vehicles linked to the event, moving up and down. During the first stretch only the Silk Route Ultra runners, were there. This stretch was well covered by volunteers. Once the Khardung La Challenge started there were a lot more runners. After Khardung village, all the way up to the top, it was quite a challenge, quite a struggle. The last five to six kilometres were a push. The downhill stretch was also not easy but definitely easier than the uphill stretch. I resorted to walk-run all along. There were no women finishers after me. Of the 47 runners for Silk Route Ultra, only 19 finished the race. It was a well-organized race. Just the blocking of traffic was a major advantage for the runners because we did not have to worry about traffic at night. I had no time for recovery. I finished the race on the evening of September 8 and had to take a flight back to Delhi next morning. My recovery will start now. My calves are swollen. They were very tight right from the beginning. I had to stop a couple of times during the race to get help from volunteers to release the tightness. By the end of the race, they were quite swollen. I guess, it will take a few days for the swelling to ease,’’ Shikha said.

Among those who had to give up, was Ashwini Ganapathi. “ I didn’t finish the race. I stopped at 65 kilometres. I got my periods the previous day. I started the race and was doing okay. Just one and a half hours into the race, I started getting a lot of cramps. I managed to run until Khardung village and by then I had severe cramps. My back also was cramping a lot. I took help from the doctors at the aid station. I continued for some time interspersing the run with some rest. But the doctors asked me to take a call as I had a long way to the finish. I stopped about one and half kilometres before North Pullu. My periods arrived five days ahead of schedule. It may have been because of the exertion. I have been here in high altitude for a long time now. When we get periods, we get bloated. I could not drink much water and that’s not a good thing at altitude. If one is not hydrated adequately there could be other issues. I am a passionate amateur runner and I do not want to push myself beyond a point and jeopardize my health. I saw two runners doing the Silk Route Ultra collapse along the way. I have now registered for Ladakh Marathon. I am feeling fine now,’’ she said. By night September 8, Leh’s roads sported the odd person with a tired, vacant, contented look; the tell-tale signs of trial by endurance. There were celebrations. Dinesh Heda, senior runner from Goa, who had earlier told this blog that he would celebrate no matter what the outcome of his participation in KC, kept his word.

(The authors, Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon, are independent journalists based in Mumbai. Shyam was in Ladakh to report on the race. Latha spoke to some of the people quoted herein, on the phone. Our thanks to the organizers of this event for the support they provided to write this article. Our thanks to all the runners and aficionados of running who spoke to us.)