Month: September 2018

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VEDANGI’S QUEST / CANADA DONE, EUROPE NEXT

Vedangi Kulkarni (This photo was downloaded from the cyclist’s Facebook page and is being used here for representation purpose only.)

Vedangi Kulkarni, who is attempting to be the fastest woman cyclist to go around the planet unsupported, has completed her trip across Canada.

September 28 noon, her father Vivek Kulkarni informed that having finished the Canadian leg of her journey, Vedangi had just reached Iceland signifying start of the European and Russian segment.

She was expected to commence cycling in Iceland from September 29.

Vegangi has covered approximately 16,000 kilometers (roughly 9940 miles) so far, Vivek said. Prior to cycling across Canada, Vedangi had cycled in Australia and New Zealand. She began her journey from Perth on July 17, 2018.

The record Vedangi seeks to improve upon is the one held by Italy’s Paola Gianotti. In 2014 she completed circumnavigation unsupported on a bicycle – although not in consecutive stages – in 144 days.

As per information available on Vedangi’s website, her journey of 18,000 miles (approximately 29,000 kilometers) will be attempted in four stages. The first stage will see her cycling through Australia and New Zealand. The second stage will see her cycling across Alaska and Canada. The third stage spans Europe, Scandinavia, Russia and Mongolia. The fourth and last stage covers China and the trip back to where she started in Australia. Given the fact that all required visas cannot be applied for and obtained well in advance, the exact route of Vedangi’s expedition has to stay open to adjustments as her journey progresses.

Vedangi, 19, is currently a student at Bournemouth University, UK. She spent some part of her early childhood in Panvel (not far from Mumbai); later she attended Jnan Prabodhini school at Nigdi near Pune. Her family now resides in Kolhapur. The circumnavigation plan assumed shape sometime in September-October 2017. Vedangi’s circumnavigation attempt will take her across 14-15 countries, the final number depending on how the route is affected by visa availability. A film is being made on her journey. There will be a film crew meeting her at various points on the way.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. For more on Vedangi and her journey please scroll down or select from the blog archives.)

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ABHILASH TOMY RESCUED

Commander Abhilash Tomy KC; this photo was taken at the time of Thuriya’s launch in Goa in 2017 (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Commander Abhilash Tomy KC, who was injured badly after his sailboat, Thuriya, was rolled and dismasted in a severe storm in the Southern Ocean, was rescued earlier today (September 24), reports in the Indian media said.

Upon reaching Thuriya’s location, the French fishing patrol vessel Osiris dispatched a team (with stretcher) in a small boat, which successfully shifted the injured naval officer from his sailboat to Osiris. Abhilash is conscious but tired and dehydrated, a media report quoting his father, P.C. Tomy, said.

According to an update on the Golden Globe Race (GGR) website, at the time of the rescue both Indian and Australian maritime reconnaissance aircraft were circling overhead. Weather conditions were favorable. A radio briefing was held between the Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre on Reunion Island, a doctor at I’lle Amsterdam (an island in the southern Indian Ocean not far from where Thuriya was) and the master of the Osiris before the French crew proceeded to the Thuriya in inflatable Zodiac boats to assess Abhilash’s condition and administer first aid.

India’s Defence Minister, Nirmala Sitaraman, has tweeted that Osiris will take Abhilash to I’lle Amsterdam. He is expected to reach there by September 24 evening. Later, INS Satpura – one of two Indian navy ships dispatched to the Southern Ocean following news of Thuriya’s dismasting and serious injury to Abhilash – will take him to Mauritius, the tweet said. I’lle Amsterdam is part of French Southern and Antarctic Lands, an overseas territory of France. I’lle Amsterdam has a good hospital with X-ray and ultrasound equipment, the GGR website said.

Thuriya and Abhilash were participants in the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR) entailing solo nonstop circumnavigation of the planet in a sailboat. Ahead of storm in the Southern Ocean, Abhilash was placed third in the race. Following the dismasting and severe back injury, Abhilash was unable to move and confined to his bunk in the Thuriya. At the time of writing, details of the injury were not known.

According to the update on the GGR website following Abhilash’s rescue, Gregor McGuckin, the Irish sailor and GGR participant who was sailing towards Abhilash’s coordinates despite his own vessel being rolled and dismasted, was still 25 miles west. Gregor was attempting to motor-sail to Abhilash’s help under a small jury rig and with neither self-steering (he has to hand-steer) nor properly working engine. He was in contact with reconnaissance aircraft and although not in distress has requested for a controlled evacuation, a decision commended by race organizers given he has 1900 miles of Southern Ocean to tackle in a damaged boat and at the present juncture, has rescue assets close by.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. For more on Abhilash, Thuriya and GGR please scroll down or select from this blog’s archives.)

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INDIAN NAVY AIRCRAFT SIGHTS THURIYA

Thuriya adrift in the Southern Ocean; mast broken (This photo was downloaded from the Twitter handle of Indian Navy and is being used here for representation purpose only.)

An Indian Navy P-8I long range maritime reconnaissance aircraft has located Commander Abhilash Tomy’s sailboat, Thuriya, in the Southern Ocean, reports in the national media said today (September 23).

It may be recalled that the vessel was rolled and dismasted in a recent storm. Abhilash had subsequently reported severe back injury and inability to move around.

He has activated the Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) and efforts have been underway to locate and rescue him. Thuriya and Abhilash were participants in the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR) entailing solo nonstop circumnavigation of the planet in a sailboat. It was Abhilash’s second such voyage. In 2013 he became the first Indian to do a solo nonstop circumnavigation in a sailboat.

Reports quoting an Indian Navy spokesperson said that the naval aircraft saw Thuriya adrift in the Southern Ocean, its mast broken and hanging alongside.

Further the official website of GGR informed that Australian authorities have dispatched an executive jet to the coordinates of the stricken boat. The aircraft will also overfly the boat of Irish skipper and GGR participant Gregor McGuckin, which too was rolled and dismasted in the storm. Notwithstanding an unreliable engine (likely due to fuel being contaminated when the boat was rolled and dismasted in the storm), loss of self-steering (he has to hand-steer now) and finding that the spinnaker pole he used to improvise a jury rig was bending in the strong wind, Gregor is attempting to motor-sail his way to Abhilash. The two are only 80 miles apart, the latest update on the GGR website said. Also expected to head Abhilash’s way is Estonian sailor and GGR participant, Uku Randmaa, who was 400 miles west of both Gregor and Abhilash.

Additionally, the French fisheries patrol vessel Osiris is heading to help Abhilash. Osiris has medical facilities onboard. Although he cannot move around and appears confined to his bunk due to the back injury, Abhilash has confirmed to race organizers that he can move his toes. In first responder circles, when assessing injury, the ability to move one’s body extremities is usually taken as a positive sign. Abhilash has indicated that he may need a stretcher when help arrives. Quoting Abhilash’s latest message to race organizers, the GGR website informed on September 22 (as an update to what it reported earlier the same day) that he can move his toes but is feeling numb and cannot eat or drink. The grab bag containing more emergency communication equipment remained difficult for him to access.

As per information on the GGR website, Australian authorities are also repositioning a search and rescue plane to Reunion Island to assist with the rescue efforts; this is in conjunction with the Anzac class frigate HMAS Ballarat, preparing to leave Perth for the area where Thuriya is. The Indian Navy has already sent INS Satpura and the tanker INS Jyoti to the southern Indian Ocean, where Abhilash is.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. Please scroll down or select from archives for more on Abhilash, Thuriya and GGR.)        

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2018 GGR UPDATE / THURIYA ROLLED AND DISMASTED IN STORM, EFFORTS ON TO RESCUE ABHILASH TOMY

Commander Abhilash Tomy KC (This photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of Commander Abhilash Tomy and is being used for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

Efforts are on to rescue Commander Abhilash Tomy KC, participant in the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR), after his boat, the Thuriya, was rolled and dismasted in a severe storm in the Southern Ocean.

According to information available on the GGR website, the incident has left Abhilash injured.

In a communication to race organizers on September 21, he said that he has a severe back injury and cannot stand up. At that time the Thuriya was 1900 miles south west of Perth, Australia.

In a subsequent update on September 22, GGR has quoted Abhilash confirming activation of the emergency beacon (EPIRB). The boat’s external YB3i unit continues to provide tracking information but the power line to the boat’s batteries has been damaged. The update which said Abhilash is on his bunk in the boat, said that he was using the portable YB3 texting unit – which is a back-up – for messaging.

The boat’s primary satellite phone has been damaged. There are additionally an aviation hand-held VHF phone, a second satellite phone and a second YB3 unit in Abhilash’s Emergency Grab Bag.

The Thuriya, soon after the boat was launched last year; view from aft. At this stage her mast wasn’t fitted; that happened later(Photo: Shyam G Menon)

But he cannot reach it given the state he is in, the update on the GGR website said.

Last reported on this blog, Abhilash was in fourth position in the race. He had subsequently improved to third position. Besides Thuriya, the powerful storm rolled and dis-masted the Hanley Energy Endurance, the boat in which fellow GGR participant, Gregor McGuckin was sailing. However Gregor is otherwise alright and following emergency repairs, was slated to sail towards Abhilash’s coordinates. He was reported to be 100 miles south west. Another GGR participant, the Estonian sailor Uku Raandma was also in range; he was reported to be some 450 miles away from Thuriya.

According to the media, the Indian Navy and Australian rescue authorities have swung into action to rescue Abhilash.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. For more on the 2018 GGR please scroll down or select from archives.) 

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VEDANGI’S QUEST / CANADIAN LEG NEARS COMPLETION

Vedangi Kulkarni (This photo was downloaded from the cyclist’s Facebook page and is being used here for representation purpose only.)

Having completed the opening Australian chapter and New Zealand after that, Vedangi is close to wrapping up the Canadian leg of her journey, cycling around the planet.

Vedangi Kulkarni, who is attempting to be the fastest woman cyclist to go around the planet unsupported, has covered more than three fourths of the Canadian leg of her journey.

On September 9, her father Vivek Kulkarni informed that Vedangi had reached Ottawa, the capital of Canada. At that point she had covered 9020 miles (14516 kilometers) since commencement of her trip in Perth, Australia. This approximates to half the distance required for circumnavigation. It took her 54 days and some hours (but less than 55 overall, as per Vivek) to cover the distance.

On her Facebook page, the young cyclist wrote: How do I feel? Grateful! I feel grateful for the colourful sunrises and sunsets, the mountains and the flat lands, the tarmac and gravel paths, the beautiful trees, creeks, rivers and lakes, the howls of the wolves and close wildlife encounters, the pleasant temperatures and freezing cold, the thunderstorms and stormy winds and tailwinds, and above all, to the PEOPLE who have supported me however and whenever and wherever I’ve needed – family, friends and absolute strangers! You’re my invisible peloton and I value every single one out there wishing well for me.

The record Vedangi seeks to improve upon is the one held by Italy’s Paola Gianotti. In 2014 she completed circumnavigation unsupported on a bicycle – although not in consecutive stages – in 144 days.

According to Vivek, Vedangi had to attend to work concerning her Schengen visa for Europe, in Ottawa. For some reason in the journey so far, this particular visa had proved tough to obtain. On September 15, in a post on Facebook, Vedangi confirmed receipt of Schengen visa. She will now proceed to Halifax in Nova Scotia to complete the Canadian leg, Vivek said.

Vedangi began her passage across Canada in Vancouver. Earlier she had cycled from Perth to Brisbane in Australia (5631 kilometers) and put in an additional 1000 kilometers or so, in New Zealand.

As per information available on Vedangi’s website, her journey of 18,000 miles (approximately 29,000 kilometers) will be attempted in four stages. The first stage will see her cycling through Australia and New Zealand. The second stage will see her cycling across Alaska and Canada. The third stage spans Europe, Scandinavia, Russia and Mongolia. The fourth and last stage covers China and the trip back to where she started in Australia. Given the fact that all required visas cannot be applied for and obtained well in advance, the exact route of Vedangi’s expedition has to stay open to adjustments as her journey progresses.

Vedangi, 19, is currently a student at Bournemouth University, UK. She spent some part of her early childhood in Panvel (not far from Mumbai); later she attended Jnan Prabodhini school at Nigdi near Pune. Her family now resides in Kolhapur. The circumnavigation plan assumed shape sometime in September-October 2017. Vedangi’s circumnavigation attempt will take her across 14-15 countries, the final number depending on how the route is affected by visa availability. A film is being made on her journey. There will be a film crew meeting her at various points on the way.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)

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2018 GGR / RACE PASSING THROUGH INDIAN OCEAN

Commander Abhilash Tomy KC (This photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of Commander Abhilash Tomy and is being used for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended.)

The 2018 GGR, which began July 1 from France, is now passing through the Indian Ocean, albeit way down in the southern hemisphere. The race with technology levels pegged back to what prevailed during the 1968 GGR entails a solo, nonstop circumnavigation of the planet in a sail boat. It is adventure, refined.

More than two months since the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR) commenced from Les Sables-d’Olonne in France, the race leaders are past Cape of Good Hope and Madagascar. They are well into the Indian Ocean; the region they are in qualifies to be Southern Ocean. As of September 13, 2018, they lay far out at sea in the southern hemisphere, south-south west from the Indian peninsula.

Among the world’s great capes, the next one for them to rendezvous with is Cape Leeuwin, Australia. Well past this cape at Storm Bay in Hobart, Tasmania, the participants will have a brief meet up with race officials and media. According to race rules, the participants will pass through a `gate’ and drop all sail on the boat if it is safe to do so. The entrant may moor, anchor, motor or drift but may not re-cross the gate to continue to Cape Horn until at least 90 minutes has elapsed. During this time when the nonstop, unsupported character of the race will continue to remain intact, the participants can pass on any photos, films, letters they may have. They will also have to display their `safety pack’ for inspection. The pack – it contains a portable GPS chart plotter – is meant for use in emergency and a broken seal (indicating the pack was opened) denies the participant any official ranking in GGR or GGR trophies. He / she can however continue in the event under `Chichester Class.’ Further instances of stopping anywhere or breaking the seal of the pack, will disqualify the participant from the event, altogether.

As of mid-September, of 18 sailors originally participating in the 2018 GGR, seven had retired from the race while one stood relegated to Chichester Class. Commander Abhilash Tomy KC of the Indian Navy – he is the sole participant from India and only invitee from Asia – was among those still in the race. At the time of writing he was in fourth position. He had made some significant gains in the preceding days. The race leader by sizable margin was Jean Luc Van Den Heede of France. He was followed by Mark Slats of Netherlands, Gregor McGuckin of Ireland and Abhilash in that order.

The 2018 GGR features solo nonstop circumnavigation of the planet in a sail boat. It is a repeat of the original GGR of 1968, which produced the first solo nonstop circumnavigation in a sail boat; the distinction went to Sir Robin Knox-Johnston of UK, who accomplished the voyage in the India built-Suhaili. The 2018 edition is unique for pegging technology aboard participating sail boats, to the same level as in 1968. No digital devices have been permitted. Navigation is done using a sextant. Abhilash is the first Indian to do a solo nonstop circumnavigation in a sail boat. The 2018 GGR is his second attempt at solo nonstop circumnavigation. For the race, Abhilash is sailing in the Thuriya, a replica of the Suhaili built in Goa at Aquarius Shipyard (for more on the Thuriya please click on this link:  https://shyamgopan.com/2017/08/11/2018-golden-globe-race-ggr-meet-the-thuriya/).

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)

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THE OUTDOORS AND THE LURE OF THE HIVE

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

A recent Court order that bans camping on Uttarakhand’s alpine and sub-alpine meadows has left trekkers and the outdoor industry confused. Confusion can be clarified. Of worry is trends inspired by commerce, noticeable in some of the responses to the ruling. As life becomes hive, the question is: to bee or not to bee?

Recently a friend needed assistance in articulating what the outdoors means and I found myself writing so:

Wilderness and open spaces are not merely part of human heritage. They are fundamental to the evolution of our aesthetics. One manifestation of such aesthetics inspired by nature is our idea of freedom. For some inexplicable reason, open spaces and wilderness with few humans in it, remind us of freedom; alternatively whenever we think of freedom, we imagine open space. We periodically yearn to be away and alone in the outdoors because we wish to reconnect with dimensions of existence denied us in the human cluster. Thus much before the outdoors is industry or industry to be regulated, it must be acknowledged as a side of us we are bound to go seeking, allowed or not.

To mindsets like the above, regulation is self-regulation and that is inextricably linked to education and awareness. The goal should be to create better informed practitioners of outdoor sports and adventure activity.

I reproduce the above here because of a recent Court order in the Indian state of Uttarakhand and responses to it I noticed on the Internet; in fact, with reference to my opinion on the matter, less because of the Court order and more because of the responses. Towards the end of August 2018, the High Court ruled that camping should not be allowed on alpine meadows, sub-alpine meadows and bugyals. It put a question mark on trekking in Uttarakhand because many treks – particularly long ones – require camping overnight. The order also set a limit on the number of visitors allowed at these locations.

News reports following the Court order said that the Uttarakhand government will challenge the ruling in the Supreme Court.

I leave it to the experts to decide what should be done.

What distressed me was some of the reactions in the wake of the Court order.

One big player in the outdoor industry lost no time in positioning large companies as environmentally responsible and small groups and individual trekkers as potentially irresponsible. To me, such posturing is unacceptable because there are exceptions to every generalization. There are lone trekkers and small groups of hikers who conduct themselves responsibly. Similarly, there have been big tour operators who defiled destinations by running hikes with large number of people or handled their garbage irresponsibly. Second, this argument of big operators as the most responsible ones around and therefore ideal model to support flies in the face of why we choose to be in the mountains in the first place.

My gut reaction when I saw the tour operator’s observation was: don’t compulsorily push me into a group. I come to the mountains for relief from the human hive and you are simply extending the reach of the hive when you insist I be in a group. That is not to say I am averse to groups. I am a meek fellow. Except on a handful of occasions, all my treks and climbs were with at least a friend or two. I have also hiked with groups and been on commercial treks; in the latter case, enjoying the comforts provided for I can’t handle frugality perennially. All through my life I have picked and chosen from a basket of options. What I wish to underline is that there is an element of getting away in most outdoor adventures. Outdoors, wilderness, open spaces and such have historically been a valuable counterpoint – even source of counter narrative – to life by clustering. What is the fun then, in forcing everyone into groups in the outdoors too? Why limit our choices?

The unsaid truth is – hive and group are good for business (not to mention – they are also politically fashionable these days). Companies love seeing us arranged in silos and seeming ready-made market. Before we know, the silo is swung by capital, technology and social media to the convenience of those controlling it. Such hijack of individual is overlooked. The danger implicit in this imagination resembles the tussle between personal freedom and nationalism. If you are going to put resources behind empowering anything, it should be personal freedom because that is innately fragile and typically, stands alone. Even a school student, aware of bullies and bullying, knows which side to support as a matter of principle. Somewhere in life as adults, we seem to forget this. However – and thankfully so – not everyone forgets.

Years ago, when I was introduced to hiking and climbing in Mumbai, my seniors at the climbing club talked of a book that was deemed essential reading. Its name – rather aptly I would think – was Freedom of the Hills. I didn’t read this book (it is there still on my shelf) but I read similar others. More than reading I was lucky to be with friends who liked the outdoors and respected it. Point is – nobody recommended an Outdoor Industry Handbook or How to be Hive and in the Hills At Once as essential reading for novice. My seniors were clear – the hills meant freedom. And because they are precious as abode of that freedom, you tread responsibly, you care for it. We went in small groups / expeditions and years before the Court order of 2018, were already carrying our trash back. It is my request to policy makers that individual hikers and small groups should not be automatically branded as irresponsible. Sometimes we hike alone or in small groups because we can’t afford commercial hikes or we simply wish for our own space. What you should emphasize instead, is good education about the outdoors so that anyone – traveling alone or traveling in group – is motivated as individual, to be responsible visitor in wilderness.

A commercial trek should not be anything more than an option. Much the same way, going alone or in a small group, should always be there as option. You can’t impose one option on everybody. The solution should be – no matter what option we choose (and the option we choose will vary depending on our state and stage in life), the environmental standards (and safety norms) expected of a trek must be met. Educate and train – that should be the way ahead. The hive will always tempt us with business models suiting its logic. But remember this – you will know the value of freedom only when you lose it. Even as I am yet to read it, I just can’t get over the name of that book: Freedom of the Hills. So apt. But for how long? – I wonder.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)