HALF OR FULL? THAT’S THE QUESTION

Kamlya Joma Bhagat (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

Kamlya Joma Bhagat (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

Fanaswadi was a village with two lives.

“ At the earlier location, there were no facilities. There was no doctor, no water, no electricity,’’ Kamlya Joma Bhagat said. In 2011, the village started shifting to where it is today. According to him, the old village survives, mostly abandoned except for four families who continue to be there because the elders didn’t wish to leave the land they had lived off for so long. The agricultural fields belonging to Kamlya’s family were also at the old location. He visited his former residence when required. The new and old locations of the village were apart by roughly five kilometres, separated in the main by a hill. Pale Budruk – that was the name of the area where Fanaswadi’s second avatar sprouted. When you took one of those three wheeled share-taxis from Panvel, you didn’t just say Fanaswadi; you said Fanaswadi-Valap to indicate which Fanaswadi you were talking of.

Half an hour or so from Panvel we got off on the road. Fare paid, the taxi proceeded on its way leaving us next to a board from below which a path of baked brown earth, now rendered powdery by the fierce summer of 2015, wound its way up to a rather spread out cluster of huts and mud houses. Some ways up, a wiry young man of medium height greeted us and took us to his house – all of one room and a sit-out. Behind the hut was the hill separating Fanaswadi’s two lives. Up front and far away, the hill between Kharghar and Belapur loomed, large and faint. Somewhere in that dark outline of hill was Pandavkada, the popular waterfall, right then possibly awaiting the rains to come alive. In front of that hill lay the urban sweep of Kharghar and the factories of Taloja’s industrial zone. At a tangent from the houses we were at, through the summer haze, the rocky top section of a hill was visible in the distance.

The new Fanaswadi sat unsettled on land the families on it were yet to own. They had moved here because they were desperate to be near basic amenities. Technically the land was owned by the government. Apparently there was legal action going on. There was no water and electricity here too. Observations on life were tinged by a neither here nor there vagueness; a smile and a faraway gaze to avert the impact of that uncertainty. At Kamlya’s house a metal sofa had been dressed in a clean sheet for us to sit.

We sat down to hear his story.

Meet Kamlya Bhagat, runner.

Kamlya was born in the old Fanaswadi to a family engaged in agriculture. He was the youngest of six siblings. His father died when Kamlya was still a small child. The family primarily grew rice and nachni (finger millet); they also grew vegetables. Kamlya worked on his family’s land. He also worked on other people’s land as did others in his family. Much of the farm produce at Fanaswadi was meant for use in-house. That was how life amid meagre income was managed.

Fanaswadi, new location (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

Fanaswadi, new location (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

From the age of five or six onward Kamlya attended the Aadivasi Aashram School at Chikhale near Panvel, where he studied till the tenth standard. It was a residential school where the cost of education was met by government. In class eight at this school, Kamlya had his first formal rendezvous with running. It was a 1500 metre-race, which he had to quit with 100m left due to cramps. He had run without any practice. So over the next couple of years he kept running regularly in the range of 5-15 kilometres. Kamlya attended junior college at the Sanjay Gandhi High School in Kolwadi and then joined MPAC College in Panvel to do his BA (Geography). By now the funds for his education were a mix – it came from his family; it also came from his pocket as Kamlya was additionally working at a shampoo factory in Taloja. The distances he ran had now grown to 20km.

In the second year of his three year-degree course, Kamlya secured second position in cross country running at the Mumbai University level. According to him, across his college years, he won 28 medals in disciplines ranging from 1500m to cross country running. He even ran the 4x400m relay. At MPAC College, he practised at the college ground. Sometimes he ran to college from the shampoo factory he worked at. He also ran at University Ground in South Mumbai. Representing the university, he ran at venues outside the state, in Bengaluru and Andhra Pradesh. Kamlya said he had been to four or five inter university meets. Sports elicited a toll on studies. Kamlya never gave his final year BA exam. Academically therefore, the runner from Fanaswadi stopped a shade short of graduation. There were other developments. In his second year at college, Kamlya got married. By the third year, he was a father. Today he has two children, a boy and a girl; one of them suffers from a congenital heart problem. The family also lost one child.

Kamlya, his wife Kalpana and their children, Prathama and Raj (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

Kamlya, his wife Kalpana and their children, Prathama and Raj, in front of their house (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

It was during his first year at MPAC College that Kamlya had his first taste of the half marathon. By the second year, he was enjoying the format but remained an athlete in a basket of disciplines. After leaving college Kamlya ran a half marathon, barefoot, in Kalyan. Since then, he mostly ran the half marathon. The distance was a sweet spot for him. Given his backdrop in college running a variety of distances all the way up from the 4x400m relay (he said he could do 1500m in 4:10-4:12), the half marathon allowed him to tap his innate affection for speed. Kamlya estimated that he must have run over 150 half marathons by the time we met him. That prolific running was due to another factor. When Kamlya left college, he was married and having wife and child to support. He couldn’t get a job. There was nothing available. All he had to fall back on was running. Slowly racing became a source of livelihood. These races were typically organized by individuals and organizations ranging from local legislators to elected bodies and others. They happened mostly in the winter months. A good runner, Kamlya was confident of winning races in Raigad, the district he belonged to and lived in. Running almost every week, in a good season, he was able to earn up to Rs 50,000. A modest amount, it nevertheless meant much for the family. Except rice which they grew in their fields, they needed to purchase most other things.

The races made Kamlya locally known. “ I saw his name in a local newspaper. Then I met him in one of the races in Navi Mumbai. We shared our numbers. I called him for a run and he came to Panvel an evening. That was the first time I ran with him. Later I went to his place to run. There we ran on trail. It was very beautiful,’’ Dnyaneshwar Tidke, one of the best known runners from Panvel said (for more on Dnyaneshwar please see https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/04/11/the-constant-runner/). Although he did his practice runs wearing shoes, Kamlya ran the races barefoot. “ I don’t know why,’’ he said. His runs in and around the new Fanaswadi settlement included running on the road we had come by and extended trail runs on the hill behind the hutment. As regards coaches, there was a “ Shinde sir’’ at MPAC College and a “ Sushil sir’’ at the university. No other names came up.

A seemingly self made runner for the most part, Kamlya’s Fanaswadi address was also miles away from the Mumbai locales where the city’s running coaches trained their wards. But running and runners graced Kamlya and Fanaswadi differently. News of Kamlya Bhagat got around in the running community. For instance, Chetan Gusani, a runner and photographer, was collecting shoes for needy runners when Dnyaneshwar told him of Kamlya. In June 2014, Chetan enrolled him for a 10 km race in Thane and asked Kamlya to stay at his place as it was closer to the venue. Chetan recalled the episode, “ he came over. At night I asked him if he was comfortable. He said he was very comfortable as in his own house he did not have electricity. Next morning, he ran the 10 km-race and finished second in the open category.’’ Chetan put a post on Facebook about Kamlya. Help started coming in. Fellow runners got him shoes, footed his registration fee at races. At a Fanaswadi still devoid of electricity, a line of LED lamps powered by solar energy lined the pathway to Kamlya’s house. The lamps had been provided by a group of runners.

Kamlya with his mother Sangibai (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

Kamlya with his mother Sangibai (Photo: Latha Venkatraman)

As much as the half marathon emerged a sweet spot for Kamlya, it also appeared a limitation. The 28 year-old (according to Kamlya his legal age is slightly higher) fared strongly in the half marathon viewing it as a longer, stretched version of the middle distance runs he used to do before (and still does well as the outcome of the 10 km shows). At some point, Kamlya knew the same logic of adapting to age and endurance will prod him to try the full marathon. As yet he had neither attempted the full marathon in Mumbai’s annual Standard Chartered marathon (SCMM; India’s biggest such event) nor had his one attempt at the marathon, succeeded. In that latter attempt – a night marathon in Surat – he gave up after a half marathon and some more done because the run wasn’t progressing to his satisfaction. He required better endurance.

Given Kamlya’s predicament, wherein running is also a source of livelihood, satisfaction for him is probably several notches above what satisfaction is for the rest of us. He can shift disciplines only if performance is satisfactory. Further, he believes that he won’t be able to transition to the full marathon from the half without affecting his existing fortunes in the half. For example: to run the full marathon he may likely have to run slower as it spans a longer course. Do that in training several times over, how would it be if he suddenly required to a run a half marathon for money? Won’t he run slow and lose his chance to win? Not to mention: competition was emerging in Raigad. He may want the marathon but he can’t upset the income stream from the half marathon. This was Kamlya’s worry. At the same time, he knew the inner clock was ticking; he won’t stay fast forever. He hadn’t therefore shut the doors on the full marathon. “ I haven’t said no to it,’’ he emphasized. Finally there was the issue of shaking up a whole ecosystem. When we met him, Kamlya was also working as a temporary teacher at a school some distance away. Somehow the half marathon had come to fit in well in terms of the time he was able to spare for running, training and the resources he could invest in his passion, including food intake. Is it worth upsetting the equation?

Kamlya was unsure: should it be the half or the full?

“ I think he can be a full marathoner provided he trains regularly,’’ Dnyaneshwar said.

Maybe one day, like Fanaswadi before, Kamlya will step out into a second life with the full marathon.

UPDATE: At the 2015 BNP Endurathon in Mumbai, Kamlya finished second in the 25km-run. His timing was 1:45:33.

October 2015: Running the half marathon, Kamlya finished fifth in his age category (30-35 years) at the Sriram Properties Bengaluru Marathon 2015. His timing was 01:19:49.

(The authors Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon are independent journalists based in Mumbai. Please note: race details, timings, performance at meets and number of medals won are as provided by the interviewee.)

RUNNER AT THE FARM

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

The veranda lights faded roughly twenty feet from the farm house.

Beyond it was darkness.

Gaytri walks around the property at night, from sunset to early morning, opening and closing the farm’s drip irrigation system.

I have my headlamp, shoes on my feet.

She carries a small torch, rubber slippers or none on her feet.

The torch cast an ellipse of light.

At its centre was a black scorpion.

I came to Vrindavan Farm in Onde to write about a runner.

Gaytri Bhatia was born the middle child of three daughters. As she put it, thanks to her elder sister, her mother had worked out the method to bring up a child by the time she arrived. She was allowed to explore as she wished. Gaytri grew up, rather independent in the head. The family stayed in South Mumbai; there was the farm in Onde as well. Her debut in sports around Grade I was at the back of the field, skipping along while the rest of her classmates raced to the finish. From that she swung in due course to being the sports captain of her school. All three sisters were good swimmers; they were regular visitors to the United Services club in Mumbai, which had facilities for swimming in the sea. To this date, Gaytri remains a strong sea-swimmer. During junior college at Mumbai’s St Xavier’s she did well in a 1300m-running race. In her narration, this appeared her first serious rendezvous with running. Around this time, she also cranked up her physical routine many notches. She would go for a morning run, walk to college and back, visit the gym, swim and practise kung fu. Her main love was swimming.

On the academic front, a friend of hers was taking a test to qualify for studies in the US. On a whim Gaytri too gave the exam. She not only secured a decent score, she also got admission to a college in the US with scholarship to boot. She moved to Mt Holyoke College, a liberal arts college for women, in South Hadley, Massachusetts. The subject she chose to study was photography. Since the college lacked a formal program in photography, she elected instead to attend photography classes and major in environmental studies. For her thesis, she worked on a project in Canada that entailed monitoring carbon dioxide emissions from a bog. While at college, she also did one semester of study at the Biosphere Project, an Earth systems science research facility, originally begun by Space Biosphere Ventures. During her semester of study, Gaytri recalls the place was owned by the West Campus of Columbia University. According to Wikipedia, the University of Arizona took over the facility for research in 2007 and assumed full ownership in 2011. The project was constructed between 1987 and 1991 and “ explored the web of interactions within life systems in a structure with five areas based on biomes, and an agricultural area and human living and working space to study the interactions between humans, farming, and technology with the rest of nature. It also explored the use of closed biospheres in space colonization and allowed the study and manipulation of a biosphere without harming Earth’s.’’

Mango at Vrindavan Farm. For an article on the green mango please visit: https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/04/29/the-green-mango/ (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Mango at Vrindavan Farm. For an article on the green mango please visit: https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/04/29/the-green-mango/ (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Morning at the farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Morning at the farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

One of her memories of Arizona is that she liked running there. “ Running had become the way I would experience any new place. The shoes were the first to be packed. I would run everywhere,’’ she said. Amid this, the issue of what running to do – was also slowly coming to the fore. At Mt Holyoke she had been part of the college’s track and field team running the 400m and 800m. But she disliked both disciplines. The 400m was too fast; the 800m, as experience, was just better than the 400. “ I knew I wasn’t meant for either,’’ she said. Eventually she left the track and field team, opting instead to go running by herself, at her pace, covering distances she liked.

After securing her honours degree in environmental studies, Gaytri went to work for a company in Boston that was a consultant to the US Environmental Protection Agency. That company was influential in shaping her life. Its office had an informal, outdoorsy ambience. There was a swimming pool on the premises. Her colleagues led an active lifestyle; there were runners, bikers, swimmers. She used to run to her office. The famous Walden Pond (Henry David Thoreau wrote his book `Walden’ in a log cabin near this lake) was roughly 13 miles from her office and 18 miles from where she stayed. She mixed running, cycling and swimming for active lifestyle. Another favourite water hole in this evolving map of physical activity was Crystal Lake. It was eight miles from her home and seven miles from her place of work. “ The unsaid rule was swim and when the cops come get out of the water,’’ she said. Everyone, including the law “ pretended for this small joy.’’ For her, this approach was precursor to being bandit.

Boston is home to the world’s oldest annual marathon, one that is also among the best known road racing events. Gaytri’s debut at the Boston Marathon was as a `bandit.’ The bandits are unregistered runners. According to information on the Internet, the event did not officially permit unregistered participants but turned a blind eye towards them running. Gaytri said that the bandits in turn made sure they never obstructed any of the officially registered runners. They start running after the main “ numbered folks’’ begin their race and typically run by the side of the road, leaving the road’s main part free for registered runners. An April 2014 report in The Boston Globe said that bandits were being banned from that year onward. One reason for this was the 2013 bombings. But the matter divided the running community. Some alleged that the real reason for discouraging bandits was money’s need to make sure the experience is best for those who pay and run. Refreshment stalls en route for example, don’t distinguish between registered and unregistered runners. They cater equally to those who pay and those who don’t. The purists in running saw the calls for distinction as commercialization of running, an act that took running away from the basic freedom in which it was rooted. Among human activities, running is closely identified with freedom. Why chain it with money? At her first Boston Marathon, the bandit from Mumbai finished in approximately four and a half hours (her fastest time in a marathon has been four and a quarter hours, the slowest – four and three quarters of an hour). But there was a problem. She wasn’t sufficiently exhausted after the marathon. She was back at work the day after the marathon.

At the farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

At the farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

The situation engaged. Should she run faster or should she run longer? As regards speed, she knew from her Holyoke days that she didn’t enjoy running fast. Besides, she wasn’t gaining any speed in her running either. The right direction appeared to be longer distances. Influencing this was also an old experience. Years ago, a school friend of hers had returned from France toying with the idea of running slower but longer. As school kids in Mumbai running on Marine Drive, they had then pursued the idea. One day in Boston, Gaytri overheard a colleague at office talk of a run that was longer than the marathon. That was how in 2004 she signed up for the JFK 50, the oldest ultra marathon in the US. As the name says, it is a race of 50 miles or 80km. According to Wikipedia, “ the race starts in the town of Boonsboro, Maryland and heads east out of town toward the South Mountain Inn. The first 2.3 miles are on a hardball road, which leads to the Appalachian Trail. The Appalachian Trail piece is approximately 13 miles. The trail then continues on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal for 26.3 miles, following the canal to Dam #4 on the Potomac River. The final leg of the Race follows 8.4 miles of hardball roads to Williamsport, Maryland.’’

Gaytri finished the race; she placed thirteenth among women at JFK 50.

There is a South African movie that Gaytri talks about – Gods Must Be Crazy. To be precise – the second film from the franchise, released in 1990, in which the main protagonist Xixo (played by N!xau) follows on foot a truck that has taken off with his children. It stuck in her mind, an image of what the human mind can push the body to do. “ I left the JFK 50 hooked to the idea of ultra marathon. I had participated asking if it was possible for me to run the distance. I found I could. After that it was all about sucking up to an addiction,’’ she said. Her training regimen those days was pretty flexible. During weekdays, she ran five miles and 8-12 miles alternatively. Weekends, she ran 16, 18, 20 or 22 miles. “ It was always driven by the want to run. Rest day was whenever,’’ she said. Unlike structured runners, Gaytri didn’t have a scientifically designed training schedule. She also hiked a great deal. “ For me, hiking was like a long run. I would typically choose routes with high ridges and possibilities of going up peaks,’’ she explained. Her preferred ultra running route was trail; off-road, new terrain, point-to-point without repetitive loops. “ Wilderness is exciting,’’ she said. Gaytri’s next ultra marathon was the Laurel Highlands Ultra in Pennsylvania. It was a run of 70.5 miles (112.8km), point-to-point and along the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail. The route went through different types of forests; it also had extended sections of muddy trail. “ Everyone had somebody to support them. I didn’t have anyone supporting me. I went without a water bottle or hydration pack. I drank at aid stations. At some point, a volunteer shoved a water bottle into my hand saying – take it. I finished second among women,’’ she said.

Farm produce (Photo: Shyam G Menon).

Farm produce (Photo: Shyam G Menon).

By this time, Gaytri had run the Boston Marathon a couple of times as bandit. But after running ultra marathons, her fascination for marathon and Boston Marathon declined. “ The ultras are so silent in a way. The other thing is that personal wear and tear after an ultra is less than in a marathon. Over time, I completely lost interest in the marathon,’’ she said. This was however inspiration to run the Boston Marathon differently, once again as bandit, but doing the race as a “ double.’’ On the eve of the race, she reached the finish line at night and started running towards the starting line. She was late doing so, for the runners doing the double had already set off. She caught up with them, continuing on with two senior ultra runners, a man and a woman. As they ran, the older woman – an accomplished ultra runner – narrated her life story. Reaching the starting point (full marathon completed), Gaytri immediately turned around for the return run back to the finishing line. Although formally registered for the race and not bandits, the two older runners also joined her. In due course, they had the elite runners of the Boston Marathon barrel down the road from behind. Giving a comparison of marathon and ultra marathon pace, Gaytri recalled that the male ultra runner tried keeping pace with the elite men and could do so for just five seconds; he tried again with the elite women and managed at best 15 seconds of running alongside. Gaytri finished the double. Next day, her knees were utterly beat. After that double, she tries her best to avoid road-running.

Gaytri’s last major ultra marathon was the 100 mile (160km) race – the Cascade Crest Endurance Run in Washington State, in 2007. Across the course’s length, it featured a total elevation gain of 21,550 feet; it was 75 per cent trail, 25 per cent dirt. “ That race sounded gorgeous. It was all trail, point-to-point, no redundancy and you were in wilderness,’’ she said. Her arrival for the race was a small adventure in itself. She was flying via Atlanta and at that airport she ran into flight delays. After much pleading she was accommodated in the earliest flight possible. She killed time at the airport repairing her running shoes, stitching the tears in it with dental floss. At the race, once again with no support team, she dispatched the stuff she needed en route to aid stations further down the trail. Then she ran, finishing the 160km-course in a little over 27 hours (to see a photo of her from the race please try this link: http://www.pbase.com/image/84628801). Gaytri said that her progression in running had been intuitive and felt. She referred the Internet to schedule races and keep in touch with the community. She avoided magazine articles and books about other runners. She didn’t want other people’s experiences interfering with her personal experience in running. She didn’t care much for timing either. “ My goal was to finish a run,’’ she said. Her running in the US was done in three pairs of running shoes – all of them, Adidas Super Nova Classic. When the model went out of production, she wrote to the company’s board of directors seeking some pairs for keeps. She got no reply. Luckily she found them at a Boston store; she bought three pairs, one of them is there at her house in Mumbai awaiting a good run.

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

Soon after Cascade Crest, life took a related but slightly different turn. A colleague at work was going on an expedition and Gaytri joined in. The objective was to climb Mt Rainier (4392m / 14,494ft). Owing to a storm, the team couldn’t summit that peak (they withdrew from around 12,500ft) and instead ended up climbing Mt Baker (3286m / 10,844ft). She loved the experience of being out in the snow clad mountains. Everyone else in the group was associated with the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), the premier outdoor school in the US. Gaytri was impressed by their conduct and the comfort they showed in the outdoors. She went and did a formal NOLS course – a mountaineering course in the Waddington Range in south western British Columbia, Canada; often described at NOLS as a classic. Following this she did her Instructor Course with NOLS and became eligible to work as an instructor on the school’s backpacking courses. Alongside, adventures in swimming also continued. A strong swimmer, she gained some notoriety for being turned back by life guards at the beaches she swam at, not to mention, one incident in which a US Coast Guard vessel blocked her extended swim and nudged her back to safer waters.

On return to India from the US (she spent a decade or so in the US), she briefly ran on Mumbai’s Marine Drive, very close to her house. For several months she tried running at 3.30AM or 4AM and stopping by 6AM when the traffic commenced. But she hated the traffic and the experience of running on the road. Eventually, she stopped running in the city except for two attempts at the Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon (SCMM) – the first time, she felt hungry and terminated her race near Kemps Corner to much subsequent regret; the second time she ran ahead of the race bandit style and completed it. Her last spate of long distance running was at Auroville in Pondicherry, where she enjoyed going barefoot in the forests.

Vrindavan Farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Vrindavan Farm (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Gaytri now splits her time between farm work in Onde, home in South Mumbai and work as outdoor instructor with NOLS India in Ranikhet. A working day began early at Onde with farm workers arriving by around 8AM. As the day progressed, the scorching heat of the Indian summer made its presence felt. Past noon, the world slunk into inactivity; then came alive for evening’s embrace of day’s work concluded. Vrindavan Farm was a quiet place, absolute antithesis of day-to-day Mumbai. It was as silent as the deep end of an ultra. Endured for days, which a resident manager must, it was – to my mind – rather similar to a long distance run. You are in a world of your own. I asked Gaytri what it felt like when running an ultra marathon. She said, for her there were three stages. “ Typically I find the stages as – one: what the heck was I thinking of when I signed up for this? Two: body screams seeking attention, three: I call this moving meditation; the mind has overcome matter and now it is a flow that can carry on endlessly.’’ She said she ran the ultra marathon to find out what she can do.

It was a couple of years ago that Gaytri assumed responsibility for her family’s farm. Although she used to want something more than just being a visitor to the farm in her childhood, her move to Onde to manage the property, was accidental, “ a product of circumstance.’’ Harnessing her backdrop in environmental studies, her attempt has been to keep the farm completely organic. The result is a web of intra-farm connections – one in which, land and human lifestyle reside mutually supportive. The farm’s product portfolio is diverse. One of Gaytri’s contributions has been the systematic creation of a seed bank. Navigating her way by observing the land and resident nature as best as she can, she said she would eventually like to see the farm as “ a forest of foods.’’ Getting her ways accepted wasn’t always easy. Onde is on the edge of tribal habitation. The local farmers had time tested, longstanding approaches to farming, particularly with regard to what they will grow. There was wisdom in it. They had also become trifle closed to learning new things and experimenting with new styles. Gaytri had to tackle in the main two challenges – she had to coax her workers to try new methods; the workers had to get used to a woman as manager. V.D.K. Nair aka Mani, hails from Palakkad in Kerala. He has been living in these parts for the past twenty years or so. Previously he used to manage the farm for the family. Now he drops by once in a while to visit. Looking back, Gaytri felt she was always gravitating towards the outdoors. She used to visit the farm as a child; she had a phase when she was interested in outdoor sports including ultra running, she then chose to return and stay at the farm. “ I don’t go seeking the outdoors anymore because it is now my home,’’ she said. According to her, one of her small joys was realizing that she slept under the stars for more than two thirds of a year.

Gaytri Bhatia (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Gaytri Bhatia (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Sensing our presence, the scorpion in the ellipse of light curved up its tail in a defensive gesture.

Gaytri had been stung by a scorpion before.

We walked past the scorpion to the section waiting to be watered.

The valves to be shut and opened were in a cavity in the ground. Gaytri reached down to do the job. A mild chorus of water sprinkling in the backdrop died out. There was silence for a second or two. Then a fresh chorus started in a different direction nearby. The drip irrigation of a new patch of farmland had begun.

It was close to midnight.

I knew that I would succumb to sleep shortly.

Gaytri would stay awake, counting the hours and watering the farm in sections.

It was mid-April.

In summer, the night hours between sunset and sunrise are best to feed land.

She did that alone.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)

HEAT WAVE

Illustration: Shyam G. Menon

Illustration: Shyam G. Menon

This summer has been deadly.

So far, over 2200 people have died from the heat in India, most of them in central India and parts of north India and eastern India.

It has been a heat wave of several days.

While heat waves have been there before and people have died, this is the highest death toll in the past nearly four decades.

As June 2015 dawned, the monsoon was reportedly nearing the subcontinent.

This year’s monsoon is tad delayed.

The regular debate on how good the rains will be is on.

Once upon a time, the idea of good rain was the monsoon itself.

Now a super organism of 1.2 billion people with hunger and consumption to match, India’s worry around rain and agriculture is more.

As the economy took centre stage, ` how good’ as measured goodness, became annual fashion.

Spread of rainfall and intensity mattered; percentage replaced perception.

Simply put, good rain is sufficient rain, where it matters, when it matters.

Unfortunately it is becoming an all too familiar pattern: life on land wilts under scorching heat, everyone prays for rain and the monsoon’s passage is delayed, arrested or hijacked by unexpected developments.

There are delays in monsoon – delay before onset; delay after onset, even lulls in monsoon not different from lethargy to human brought on by heat wave.

Long after the monsoon’s birth and its arrival in our neighbourhood, there is the potential for cyclone, anticyclone and other such lures.

Freaks are many in contemporary weather.

The monsoon cavorts with these freaks.

From mere rain occurring annually, we are at last noticing the complex nature behind rain faithfully delivered.

Years ago when I was in school, El Nino was warming of the ocean off the coast of Chile in South America, which we studied in geography class.

Now it finds mention in the news every summer, for its occurrence and non occurrence affects India’s monsoon.

The interconnectedness of global weather; its vast underlying network of events – it is humbling insight.

Does it humble us?

Our egos are big.

We live as we please with our growing numbers unquestioned, our ways unchallenged, ourselves above nature and none above us.

Our survival is all that matters.

The perspective takes its toll.

What is sure from summers of the recent past and the summer of 2015 is that Indian summers are getting hotter.

News reports quoting studies say extreme weather will be a feature going forward.

Get ready for hot summers.

Mumbai bakes and steams.

My sister Yamuna, who took a few days off from work in Wardha to visit me in Mumbai, texted on her return to central India: “ 47 degrees.’’

She had found hot, humid Mumbai a relief.

When I complained, she said, “ at least, you are not getting hot wind in your face.’’

Even in Mumbai – the city that never sleeps – signs of afternoon listlessness abound.

Despite the high number of deaths from heat, the issue and its underlying message haven’t seeped into India’s imagination.

Occasionally in the wake of rising death toll, a few people comment on the importance of preserving forests and planting trees.

A lesser number wonders about urbanization, traffic and concrete jungles as amplifiers of heat.

India’s imagination is controlled by the supporters of unchanging India.

I leave it to you to think what unchanging India is.

To my mind, it exceeds the old, the traditional and the conservative and includes the burden of 1.2 billion people trying to survive earning money.

How will such a rat race and its priorities, notice the significance of climate change?

The gravity of climate change doesn’t register in unchanging India.

In some days from now, when the rain drops fall, the summer of 2015 and its death toll will become statistic; another reminder, forgotten.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai)

GOLD RUNNER

Abbas Shaikh (Photo: by arrangement)

Abbas Sheikh (Photo: by arrangement)

Mumbai’s Marine Drive is the city’s best known image on a postcard.

In bygone days (and to a lesser extent today), when skyscrapers implicitly meant modernity, this giant arc of reclaimed land bordering the sea and backed by stacks of Mumbai high rises was the city’s signature view. At night, lit by the city’s electric lights and the headlights of passing traffic, it became ` Queen’s Necklace,’ the other name by which Marine Drive is famous. Mumbai’s romance with skyscrapers continues. But like in humanity’s romance with the automobile, a tall building is no more indisputable modernity. The idea of modernity has become more textured.

The road along Marine Drive is approximately three kilometres long. Cars and bikes zip on it. Between the road and the Arabian Sea is a paved area spanning almost the entire length of the arc. Over the years, it has become the postcard view of Mumbai-running. Early morning and evening, the paved area fetches walkers and runners. During weekends, their numbers rise, some of them running to Marine Drive from distant suburbs. Best known of these rituals is probably the monthly Bandra-NCPA run, happening the first Sunday of every month.

A late evening in 2009, a young man from Shikarpur in West Bengal’s Bardhaman district, stood on Marine Drive. He was born into a poor family. He studied only till the sixth standard. His father worked as a farm labourer and his earnings were too little for family of six – parents; two sons, two daughters. Although his elder brother managed to become a post graduate, our young man had to stop studies by the sixth standard to free up money to educate his sisters. The compulsion to find work struck early.

Many from Shikarpur ended up as gold workers in India’s jewellery business. The young man moved so, first to Sidhpur in north Gujarat where he worked for two years on a monthly salary of Rs 2000-2500. Then he shifted to Mumbai, joining a unit where he learnt to polish gold jewellery.

Days were tough. Working hours were long. As a youngster learning the ropes, he often ended up fetching water and cooking for 12-15 people. That late evening in 2009, Abbas Sheikh was out on a stroll with friends after yet another long day polishing gold. Going to Marine Drive after work had become a regular practice and it was on one such visit that Abbas noticed Mumbai’s runners on Queen’s Necklace.

His daily life was classic Mumbai (minus perhaps extensive commute for he stayed with other gold workers in town). It was clock-work, in tune with the timings and hours of the industry he worked for. It was a routine. From all over India, people reach Mumbai for such industrial routine. They find one and cling to it, till the human being’s natural restlessness rebels and seeks expression. Often, you don’t know you are restless within, you don’t know what you want till a hint of something different from the regular, passes you by. Abbas watched the runners pass by. Why not run like them? – He thought. “ Mujhe kuch bhi pata nahi tha running ke bare me (I didn’t know anything about running),’’ Abbas said recalling that Marine Drive-moment. Back then, inspired to run, he spent some money from his frugal earnings to buy track pants and a pair of ordinary sports shoes. “ I was too embarrassed to run in shorts,’’ Abbas said laughing.

That was the beginning.

Abbas Sheikh is now among Mumbai’s best known ultra marathon runners.

The family back in Shikarpur; parents AnsarAli Khan and Moina Bibi with Abbas' sisters Monjila Shaikh and Tanjila Malik (Photo: by arrangement)

The family back home in Shikarpur; parents Ansar Ali Khan and Moina Bibi with Abbas’ sisters Monjila Sheikh and Tanjila Malik (Photo: by arrangement)

Shivaji Park in Dadar is one of the city’s active lifestyle zones. People play, exercise, walk, run – it is also venue for an ultra marathon, a 12 hour endurance-run that Abbas had participated in. We met Abbas near his work place in Sewri. The local Udipi restaurant was crowded, not to mention – you don’t get to sit for long in such busy eateries. And as it happens sometimes, both journalists went blank in the head when it came to recalling an alternative suitable joint nearby. The search for a place to sit and chat over coffee brought us all the way to Shivaji Park. We took a taxi; then walked. Unlike journalist shaped to slouch by typing, Abbas walked confidently. He has a light frame, emphasized further by the spring in his runner’s legs. Marine Drive and thoughts about how to get into running – that was long ago. Abbas now wore Mizuno shoes. We sat down at a cafe to hear his story.

Not long after that Marine Drive-evening, in his initial phase of running in Mumbai, the daily runs were avenue to discover both running and runners. Abbas was intrigued by the urban idea of running for running sake. He does not recall anything by way of running in Shikarpur. In his narrative, the village came across as nothing more than home; the starting point of his life transforming from nondescript to engaging with the advent of running. People running for the love of it, was for him, a totally Mumbai phenomenon. There was one thing in this craziness that he couldn’t comprehend – the distances people ran. They seemed to run and vanish. Over time, he had come to recognize the regular runners on Marine Drive. But unlike him confined to the length of Queen’s Necklace, their running didn’t seem to have an end. They rarely returned the same way. Once he chased after a couple of runners and tracked their progress, realizing in the process the existence of a concept called distance running. Emulating them, Abbas also increased his daily mileage. He began running long distances but had no idea of how to assess the distance. He thought he was doing 6-7 kilometres, when in reality he was running three to four times as much, sometimes more. Slowly he too was recognized as a regular and included into their fold by a group of runners. According to him, it was runners Dev Raman and Purvi Sheth who introduced him to the well known coach, Savio D’Souza. The improvement in his performance since has been remarkable. At the 2013 Bangalore Ultra, he won the 75 kilometre-run. In 2014, Abbas ended up winner in the 100 kilometre-run at the same event. He has also won the Mumbai Road Runners Runner of the Year (Male) award for the year 2013 and 2014.

The journey was not without its ups and downs.

“ In the early days, I used to get frequently injured,’’ Abbas said. It was the typical learning curve of the self taught and self made. But his biggest injury had nothing to do with running. It happened ahead of what would have been his first Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon (SCMM), the 2011 edition. One day he slipped and fell at the place he resided with fellow workers. “ I was in a very bad shape,’’ Abbas said. The first hospital he went to, the X-ray machine wasn’t working. So his friends took him to St George hospital near Mumbai’s CST railway terminus. There, X-ray done, the injury revealed itself as a broken femur. The doctors said he required surgery; a rod had to be inserted to hold the broken section together. Fearing the cost of hospitalization in Mumbai, Abbas and a relative took the next train to Bardhaman. He endured the journey. The required operation was done in West Bengal. He was advised six months of absolute rest and recuperation. Abbas was back in Mumbai after three months. Slowly, he resumed his running, inching his way back to form by himself. The rod and screws are still there in his leg.

Abbas Shaikh (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Abbas Sheikh (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

In December 2011 he ran the full marathon at the Pune International Marathon. It was his first time at a running event and he was completely new to the experience. “ I ran without any strategy. Whenever I heard loud music, which was played here and there on the course, I ran fast and slowed down later. I thought music meant you should run faster. Then, halfway through, I felt very tired. I happened to see a guava fruit seller. I bought a guava from him and sat on the sidewalk to eat it. I resumed running when I saw some fast-paced runners go by,’’ he said. By the end of the Pune Marathon, Abbas had learnt an important lesson about long distance running – you don’t run at a blistering pace; you have to plan your run and train in a systematic manner, hydrate well. Soon thereafter, he became a regular at many major running events. Among them – SCMM, Vasai-Virar Mayor’s Marathon, Hyderabad Marathon, Goa River Marathon, Satara Hill Marathon and the Bangalore Ultra.

Abbas Sheikh / race timings:

Run                                                                       Distance                                         Timing

Bangalore Ultra 2012                                          50k                                                   4:47:29

SCMM 2013                                                           42k                                                   3:31:13

Airtel Hyderabad Marathon 2013                     42k                                                   3:27:26

Goa River Marathon 2013                                  21.1k                                                 1:29:56

Bangalore Ultra 2013                                           75k                                                   7:23

SCMM 2014                                                            42k                                                   3:25:40

Bangalore Ultra 2014                                          100k                                                  10:32

Vasai Virar Mayor’s Marathon                             42k                                                   3:10:15

SCMM 2015                                                             42k                                                   3:20:31

Source: Timing Technologies India

Currently, every morning at 5AM, Abbas leaves his quarters and heads to Marine Drive. Most days, he runs 10-15 kilometres, some days, he puts in 30 kilometres. On an average he does 80-90 kilometres per week. “ He is good. He has good endurance,’’ Savio said. According to him, the rod and screws don’t interfere with Abbas’ running. Being with Savio’s group – Savio Stars – has helped Abbas address some of his needs in running gear. He also helps Savio with his coaching work.

Although he has run other distances, Abbas said, his preferred discipline is the ultra marathon. He plans to try the 24 hour-run at the 2015 Bangalore Ultra. His participation in events is limited by availability of resources; he doesn’t have much money to spare. For instance, he said, he would like to try the long distance running events in Ladakh. But Ladakh is a high altitude destination and anything at altitude entails considerable expense given the lengthy stay for acclimatization that is required. There is however a faint possibility that one of these years, he may get to participate in South Africa’s Comrades Marathon, the world’s oldest and largest ultra marathon. “ I hope so,’’ said the man from Shikarpur, who now calls Mumbai home because it is in this city that he gets to run.

“ I love running,’’ Abbas said in Bengali accented Hindi.

Abbas Sheikh on the podium after winning the stadium run in Bengaluru, August 2015.

Abbas Sheikh on the podium after winning the stadium-run in Bengaluru, August 2015.

UPDATE: Abbas Sheikh was the winner at the 12 hour-stadium run at Sree Kanteerava Stadium in Bangalore, early August 2015.

According to him, he did 266 loops of 400 meters each covering a distance of 106.5 kilometres in the assigned time.

“ It was quite a difficult run because we had to run in a loop of 400 meters. Loop running can be very tough. At one point I wanted to quit,’’ he said.

Abbas had a fall right at the start of the run. For the last three and a half hours he chose to go barefoot. “ The ground had become hot. At the end of the day I can say I learnt to endure loop running although I prefer linear running any day,’’ he said.

In November 2015, at the Performax Bangalore Ultra, Abbas finished second in the open category for men, covering 151 km in 24 hours.

(The authors Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon are independent journalists based in Mumbai. Where photo credit says ` by arrangement,’ the picture concerned has been sourced from Abbas.)

MANY RUNNERS BUT FEW ATHLETES – EXPLORING A MUMBAI PARADOX

Savio D'Souza (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Savio D’Souza (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

“ This is all I have. Make sure you don’t lose anything,’’ Savio said, handing us a small file.

It contained old issues of Mid-Day, Sportsweek and The Daily plus a plastic sleeve with a few photos stained by age.

The former national champion in the marathon used to have more photos from his life in running.

Many have been lost.

The file opened a window to a Mumbai no more there.

Sixty one years old, Savio D’Souza, is today a busy coach, training runners in a city that has become India’s running capital thanks to the iconic Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon (SCMM). That would seem a fine situation to be in except for two points Savio made in his characteristic in-your-face fashion. The SCMM started in 2004. While the annual marathon got many people into running, those latching on to the sport from Mumbai largely belonged to the 30 plus age group. Because of it, Savio said, there were no timings significant to Indian athletics, to report from the Mumbai lot. In 2015, the women’s national record in the marathon was broken by Kerala’s O.P. Jaisha at SCMM. But timings by runners from Mumbai were nothing significant. On the one hand, running had become a movement in Mumbai. On the other hand, it was far from being cutting edge performance by any Mumbaikar. “ We have a large body of recreational runners. But where are the real athletes? There was a time when Mumbai and Maharashtra produced great track and field athletes. Now the city doesn’t feature anywhere in that department. States like Kerala, Manipur – they have all gone ahead,’’ Savio said. And paradoxically, none of the states which overtook Mumbai and Maharashtra to prominence in athletics have an event comparable to SCMM in size or such a large body of recreational runners around.

From an old race; Savio at far left, the late Shivnath Singh at far right (Photo: by arrangement)

From an old race; Savio at far left, the late Shivnath Singh at far right (Photo: by arrangement)

The paper clippings in Savio’s file dated to the early and mid-1980s. As fragments of media from the past they told a story. There was a report from November 24, 1986, about Savio winning the Pune International Marathon, beating Stephen Marwa of Tanzania to second place. Marwa had been winner of the event in 1984. The 1984 Pune International Marathon (the second edition) had been Savio’s first major marathon, wherein he finished first at the national level and third internationally (Marwa was first). In his second marathon – the Singapore International Marathon – Savio finished 18th, reducing his timing by a wide margin. Later at the Hong Kong International Marathon, he was placed 13th (profiles on the Internet say he placed ninth in Hong Kong at the 1986 edition of the event). Savio had his beginnings in the 1500m, 5000m and 10,000m disciplines. He said his best timing to date for the full marathon is around 2:25. That would make him at his peak the equivalent of being sixth among Indian full marathon runners at the 2015 SCMM. And 2015 is around 30 years since Savio’s heydays. “ That’s what I am telling you – that many years ago with much less money and facilities in Mumbai, we had timings in long distance running that matches the timings reported today or were better,’’ Savio said. Indeed the late Shivnath Singh’s national record in the men’s marathon – 2:12:00 – set way back in 1978, still ruled at the time of writing this article, almost 37 years after the timing was reported.

The Mumbai athletics ecosystem of Savio’s time seems to have been different.

From his file, a November 1983 edition of Sportsweek reported on the Runathon, a 12 km-run through Central Mumbai, won by Savio. Other reports spoke of the annual Sportsweek Road Races, five in number, with an overall winner at the end of the series. If media be window to given times, it is interesting to note that most of these reports are detailed and although cricket is dominant news by a wide margin, athletics gets a fair amount of space. Uniquely, unlike contemporary news reports on running which tend to be event-focussed, highlighting the spectacle of event, these old reports dwell more on athletes and less the event. There is an intimacy in the reportage. Savio was national champion from 1984-1988. According to him, in addition to Sportsweek lending its name to running events, many of Mumbai’s private and public sector companies maintained teams in athletics. Mafatlal – the company Savio worked for – had teams in football, cricket and athletics. The city had several athletic meets in a calendar year and each of those races saw the best turn up. Mumbai had a fine share of India’s best for the local ecosystem was breeding and grooming talent. Athletics saw the city’s senior officials arrive to encourage and support. Shashi Kumar Nair, former athlete who is now a senior government counsellor and lawyer at the city’s High Court, recalls S.K. Wankhede (former president of the Board of Control for Cricket in India), O.V. Kuruvilla (former chairman of the Central Board of Direct Taxes) and R.R. Chari (former commissioner of Income Tax) as among those who regularly visited the University Ground to support athletic events. On its part, the public turned up to cheer for they knew they were in for a treat as Mumbai had good athletes. All that community engagement either dried up or similar events continue but without the overall social interest. “ Now we don’t have good long distance runners. Maybe some in Pune and Nashik, but Mumbai – no,’’ Savio said.

Tracktrotters athletes and some of their parents with th Jameson Trophy in 1975 (Photo: copied from the club's 16th anniversary souvenir)

Tracktrotters athletes and some of their parents with the Jameson Trophy in 1975 (Photo: copied from the club’s 16th anniversary souvenir)

Two fantastic sports clubs, committed coaches, an accessible track to train on and roads shut down for people to run – these seem to have been old Mumbai’s magic potion to create athletes. For Edward Sequeira aka Eddie, the centre piece of old Mumbai’s infrastructure for athletics was the track at the Bombay University Sports Pavilion, popularly called University Ground. Essentially a track and field facility in the city belonging to the local university, this ground in South Mumbai was where Mumbai’s athletes – from state level to Olympian – converged to train. University Ground had a 400m-oval shaped track, two curves and two straights. “ This is the standard track,’’ Eddie said. The convergence of athletes here was courtesy two sports clubs possessing an evangelical fervour for promoting athletics – Tracktrotters (that is how the name is written) and Juhu Sports Club. Eddie – he is an Olympian, Arjuna Award winner, former Asian record holder in the 1500m and former national record holder in the 1500m, 5000m and the mile – is one of the founding members of Tracktrotters. Both clubs were near similar in what they wished to do and did, although some people cited a distinction by economic flavour with Tracktrotters being very middle class and Juhu Sports Club having a relatively well to do crowd.

Edward (Eddie) Sequeira (in front) at a race in Germany (Photo: by arrangement)

Edward (Eddie) Sequeira (in front) at a race in Germany (Photo: by arrangement)

Tracktrotters’ origin goes back to the late 1950s, to a group of senior athletes training together at the St Xavier’s Gymkhana, Parel. In 1962, they became Tracktrotters. The club charged nothing for its coaching. Parents brought their children for prospective training or youngsters approached on their own. “ We would sometimes test the candidate. That was all,’’ Eddie, 75, said. From 1969 onward, Tracktrotters’ regular training was at the University Ground. Although neither the two clubs nor all their trainees belonged to the university, the authorities supported their endeavour. Both clubs maintained boxes on the premises to store gear and equipment. Their coaches, training free of cost, were passionate and committed about what they did. Tracktrotters coaches included Eddie, Mervyn Jacobie, Alex Silveira, Philip Silveira, Vasant Kumar, Prithviraj Kapoor and Peter Rodrigues. The best known from Juhu Sports Club was Bala Govind, who now works in Nashik. He confirmed, training at the Juhu Sports Club also happened free of cost. “ Those days, the concept of charging money wasn’t there,’’ he said. And they produced results – many of Mumbai’s leading athletes from the period had links to these clubs and University Ground; among them – Eddie and Savio. A friendly competition prevailed between Tracktrotters and Juhu Sports Club. This was the athletics ecosystem then. “ Those are the days I will never forget,’’ Eddie said.

Mervyn Jacobie is remembered as a great coach by many. An evening in April 2015, at the playgrounds of Five Garden, Wadala, we met Ashok Shetty, an official at the Mumbai Port Trust and former state champion in the 400m, 800m and 1500m. Born into a poor family residing in Parel, his ability in sports was first spotted by Oliver Andrade, a well known coach in the city those years. Ashok’s first rendezvous with competition earned him no podium finish. With a friend who fared better in athletics, the boy landed up at Tracktrotters. At that time, the club practised at the premises of Khalsa College. “ Anyone could join for training. It was free. The first thing Mervyn did was catch me by the ear, tell me to cut my long hair short and report for training regularly,’’ Ashok recalled.

Ashok Shetty (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Ashok Shetty (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

By all accounts Mervyn’s methods won’t sustain in today’s environment. Back then, it delivered results. He was a man of medium size, very strict, insisting on punctuality and completely committed to his work as coach. On Sunday, he took a break from coaching to attend church. Mervyn worked with Central Excise; he retired as Superintendent. In due course, Tracktrotters shifted from Khalsa College premises to the University Ground. Every evening, training began at 5PM and went on till 7.30PM. As coach, Mervyn was hard to please. Those who trained under him got whacked – that seems to have been a Mervyn trademark. Once, Savio, on winning a race, went up to Mervyn to share his glee. “ I got a whack and was asked: why did you look back and run? He told me, you could have run faster had you not looked back, ’’ Savio said. Ashok, after a victory went to Mervyn with trophy and some youngsters inspired to join Tracktrotters. Another whack and pointed advice on how to improve. “ I picked up the trophy, which had fallen from my hands and looked around for the youngsters. They had all disappeared!’’ Ashok said laughing. But Mervyn wasn’t this strict perfectionist alone. Unable to afford a railway pass, Ashok used to walk from Parel to University Ground when Tracktrotters first shifted to the South Mumbai ground for practice. An angry Mervyn would whack Ashok for repeated late arrival. Then he learnt that the boy didn’t have money for the daily commute. Mervyn got him a railway pass. When the pass expired, he gave him money to renew it. Similarly, every Saturday, the whole Tracktrotters team assembled at Santa Cruz and travelled to Juhu to run on the beach. The cost of everyone’s travel was borne by Mervyn. “ For Mervyn, coaching was his life,’’ Ashok, 59, said.

Shashi Kumar Nair (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Shashi Kumar Nair (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

At his office in an old building at Mumbai’s Flora Fountain area, Shashi Kumar Nair, 60, opened a shelf and pulled out some documents. “ This shelf is now the Tracktrotters’ office,’’ he said. In a souvenir marking the club’s 16th anniversary, Mervyn Jacobie, wrote, “ Humble as the beginning was, this club had sworn to train young and enthusiastic boys and girls throughout the year, both in and off season, free of cost without any entrance fee, membership or any such formalities, irrespective of religion, caste or creed, to attain standards in athletics. Besides providing training, these athletes are entered without any entry fee for all major athletic meets in the region; track shoes, track suits and spikes are issued to the deserving athletes, from donations received from sports lovers and friends.’’

Major Shashi Tiwari, 50, served with the Indian Army’s Bihar Regiment. He now works with Tata Power. Years ago, he was the national junior champion in 800m and 1500m; he was an athlete at Tracktrotters. “ I spent nine years of my life there,’’ he said. According to him, the main benefit of being at Tracktrotters was that it took anybody in and then put that person through the coaching of a dedicated individual like Mervyn. “ People like Mervyn are hard to find in today’s world,’’ he said. Incidentally, that old Tracktrotters souvenir concluded with a “ list of members – past and present.’’ They numbered around 352. Of them, 239 – that is 68 per cent – had won medals at regional, state or national levels or been participant at international level competitions. Some of them qualified for all four levels of honour.

Edward (Eddie) Sequeira (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Edward (Eddie) Sequeira (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

According to Eddie, the decline in Mumbai athletics started about twenty years ago when the university refused permission for outsiders, including the clubs and their wards, to train at University Ground. The exact reason for this development is unclear. Eddie loved this ground, which had built him into the sportsman he came to be. In 1982, after the Asian Games in New Delhi, Mumbai’s University Ground had also been venue for a six nation-athletic meet organized by Tracktrotters. So in 2011, when India’s decision to host the cricket World Cup saw its organizers seek space to expand the Wankhede Stadium and think of encroaching on the nearby University Ground, Eddie put his foot down. He and Shashi Kumar Nair drummed up enough support to prevent any such move. Today the ground survives. It even has a new synthetic track. Access however isn’t as free as before (an official at the office adjacent to the stadium said that the ground is mainly meant for university students; others get to use it if their application is approved). Besides, a new road leading to the cricket stadium has allegedly eaten into what used to be the old athletes’ warm-up area.

Can a giant city’s position in athletics decline simply because a ground shut its doors to the public? Eddie explained it. The question is not the ground per se but what it did and how it worked in combination with the two clubs. The University Ground is perfectly located. Although in South Mumbai, it is accessible by road and rail. It had the city’s only good running track years ago; it has a new synthetic track now. What it did as part of the matrix offered by the clubs and their training, qualified the years gone by. In those years, Mumbai was catching its athletes young. Unlike most games, athletics is an individual sport. Physically demanding, you peak early in it. “ You can be a national champion at 16 or 18 years of age. That is why you have to catch them young,’’ he said. Old Mumbai was interested in sports; it scouted for young talent and found it. Still restoring a ground to regular public use is only part of the panacea. If you want a revival in athletics, the issues to address are several.

To start with, today’s children – including Mumbai’s children – lead lives dramatically different from the children of the 1960s, 70s and 80s. Thanks to contemporary lifestyle, interest in the active life has dipped. A procession of distractions exists – particularly the mobile phone. “ When we trained, we were not allowed to speak to each other or have any distractions,’’ Major Tiwari said. According to him, people from economically challenged backdrops and those hailing from rural areas may still have that required discipline. “ Mumbai has lost it,’’ Major Tiwari said. Veteran coach, Bala Govind, 73, felt that once motivated adequately, today’s children are good. But there is the issue of distraction and how naturally motivated children are toward sports. “ Those years – 30 to 40 years ago that is – were totally different. The children of that time were motivated differently. They saw sports as fun and once motivated, they had no distractions,’’ he said. Currently, even if a child managed to be in sports despite distractions, a major hurdle looms by tenth standard. Studies squeeze out sports. “ In competitive sport, you take a break and come back, your contemporaries have surged ahead,’’ Savio said.

With studies stifling sports, another old trait also began drying up.

Savio was born in Goa in 1953. After finishing his SSC, he moved to Mumbai in 1972. He was a footballer but didn’t enjoy it. He used to train at the University Ground and got admission at Maharashtra College near Byculla in the city, on the strength of his performance in sports. By 1976, he was representing Bombay University in the 5000m and 10,000m. “ I was noticed. Those days we had talent scouts and a system that provided sustenance to dedicated sportspersons,’’ Savio said. Schools and colleges looked around for good talent. Scholarships were provided. If your athletic abilities earned you a seat at college, your continued performance was noticed by companies who gave you employment. “ Such employment matters. I used to be away seven to eight months a year, training and competing. But my employers gave me a regular monthly salary,’’ Eddie said of Tata Steel. According to him, as per an old estimation of 1982, the Tata Group had in its fold then, six world champions, five medal winners at the Olympic Games, four Commonwealth Games medal winners, 36 Asian Games medal winners, 33 Asian Championship medal winners, 41 Arjuna Award winners, 51 Olympians, 57 sportspersons who had participated in the Asian Games, 54 people who had participated in the Asian Championships, one Padma Bhushan and 11 Padma Sri recipients for contribution in sports. He also said that in those days, Tata companies recruited a sportsperson once every two years.

University Ground (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

University Ground (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Some public sector companies still persist with the policy of supporting sports through employment. But a lot has changed in the private sector. There may have been snaps in continuity of support for sports in the city, when the old textile mills – Savio used to represent Mafatlal – restructured, slipped into hard times or plain died out. Mumbai’s new generation industry and the old that survived are more market focussed, preferring to see results and then support, that too in sports enjoying visibility. Exceptions exist. In conversations around recent athletes we had, the Mittals, Jindals and ONGC found mention as patrons of athletics. But that is not how it used to be. In times gone by, being a sportsperson was on par with being good at studies in terms of prospects in life. Today, nobody wants to know your struggle to succeed. They will support you once you are successful. It would be tempting to justify this trend with that approach loved by market and GDP – survival of the fittest. Actually it isn’t that simple. Most coaches know that to find good, hardy talent you have to cast your net wide and not everyone spotted so can survive without a supportive ecosystem. This is true even in the recreational running of today’s Mumbai. Some of the best timings are from people who came up the hard way and whose passage in sports was assisted by supportive others. Ecosystem matters. One comment from the conversations we had about years gone by remained embedded in the brain as a classic synopsis of what our world calls change. Somebody we spoke to said, “ we were doing a good job in athletics and coaching. What we didn’t have was a Power Point presentation like today’s market savvy folks.’’

“ The required change has to happen from school level onward. Without it there is no chance,’’ Savio said. He felt, the system of coaching at schools must be changed with sportspersons taking over the task. “ If the coach is a sportsperson, then he or she will make sports happen no matter what the challenge, because they enjoy sports,’’ he said. An interesting aside here is that when Eddie got his first job as a mechanical apprentice at Central Railways, sports was compulsory for railway employees. According to him, a Mumbai revival in athletics could start with training the resident coaches properly; send them abroad so that they get to know what good coaching is and bring it back to the city. He pointed out that unlike the salaried government coaches of today, the city’s old coaches – the ones who blazed a trail at Tracktrotters and Juhu Sports club – were devoted to sports and coaching for the love of it. They charged nothing. And they produced results if Mumbai’s past in athletics is anything to go by. Such passion must return to the city. There has to be more athletic meets. “ Bring back the old road races. Rain or no rain, the Oval Maidan is there; the University Ground is there, Marine Drive is there. Don’t have just one meet in a year – of what use is that?’’ Eddie asked. Finally “ forget about seniors; focus on juniors.’’ He wanted corporate sponsors for junior teams. “ My suggestion is that every big company should have at least one athletics meet for juniors,’’ he said, emphasizing alongside that the habit of pushing in over aged persons into junior categories to win prizes, should stop. According to Eddie and Shashi Kumar Nair, Tracktrotters is hoping to make a comeback. The club held a general body meeting in this regard attended by 50-60 old members. “ From the club’s side, we are giving the commitment that we will return the old glory to Mumbai athletics,’’ Nair, vice president, said.

Savio (Photo: by arrangement)

Savio (Photo: by arrangement)

We leave you with a vignette of old Mumbai; an edited abstract from the old Sportsweek report on the Runathon:

“ Police Commissioner Julio Ribeiro in a dashing Bombay Police track-suit set the big field (491 to be exact) off from Shivaji Park at 7AM. Though the start was together in the classic Boston Marathon style, for the different groups, the race was terminated at different stages of the course. At one stage, the runners were strung out from Dadar, down to Parel and Lalbaug, over Currey Road and Lower Parel bridges and into the homestretch. The traffic police and the Naigaum police co-operated throughout in keeping the roads reasonably clear for the runners. Savio D’Souza, Bombay’s and Mafatlal’s ace runner led the field right through, at first a few lengths ahead, then more, finally striding almost alone, king of the road. There were runners from Track Trotters, Atomic Energy Central School, St Sebastians of Dabul, Young Athletic Club, Customs and Income Tax. Captain Reza Beg of Air India was there. The day before, he was jogging in Tokyo. On Sunday, he took off with the rest of the runners from Shivaji Park. Course completed, he carefully logged his personal time in a logbook. The regular early morning Shivaji Park joggers and walkers joined in, including a 76 year old-veteran. Later a special prize was announced for him but he had disappeared. The prizes ranged from sports scholarships to silver cups, Hot-Shot cameras and other items. Bombay has started running for fun. Perhaps a little behind the rest of the world, but it has started.’’

The year was 1983.

(The authors Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon are independent journalists based in Mumbai. The timings at races are as provided by the interviewees. Where photo credit says ` by arrangement,’ the picture concerned has been sourced from Eddie or Savio.)

7a @ 65

Franco Linhares (Photo: courtesy Sharad Chandra)

Franco Linhares (Photo: courtesy Sharad Chandra)

Tucked away in the crags of Belapur in Navi Mumbai, is a small boulder with a tricky move on it called, `Franco’s Warm up.’

A name given by young climbers, it speaks much about the older gentleman whose name features in it.

Like all of us, Franco Linhares is inevitably growing old in life. But as he does so he is getting younger in climbing. You see him every evening at the small climbing wall at Podar College, first showing youngsters new to the sport the basics of climbing and then, doing some hard routes with the seasoned addicts. On weekends he turns up at Belapur, where the house of Abhijit Burman (aka Bong) has long been assembling point for climbers heading to the nearby crags. At 65 years of age, Franco is Mumbai’s most consistently active rock climber. He has been climbing for over three decades. That boulder in Belapur was aptly named. Warm-up is a sign of things to come and Franco in climbing is proving to be a bit of a Benjamin Button.

In the early 1950s, Franco’s father was stationed at Abadan in Iran, location then to one of the world’s biggest oil refineries. Franco was born in Abadan in 1950. The refinery belonged to the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company (AIOC). In 1951, Iran nationalized oil properties. Refining ground to a halt at Abadan and riots broke out (a settlement was reached in 1954, which lasted till 1973 when the National Iranian Oil Company [NIOC] took over all facilities. The period from 1951 to 1954 is called The Abadan Crisis). Franco’s family moved to Mumbai and onward to Seria in North Borneo, South East Asia, where the oil company, Shell, had a refinery. Seria became Franco’s next home. In 1960, given his father’s desire that the children be educated in India, Franco shifted to Mumbai with his sister.

The Linhares family hails from Goa. Among Indian communities, Goans are noted for their love of sports. Franco attended the St Sebastian Goan High School at Girgaum in South Mumbai. His days there were filled with sports and games. “ My love for sports came from this school. Those were my formative years,’’ Franco said. Later he majored in Microbiology from Mumbai’s St Xavier’s College. By 1967, his family was also back in Mumbai for good. To keep himself occupied, his father worked at the United Services Club in Colaba, at the Archbishop’s House and eventually served a long stint at the Victoria Church in Mahim handling administrative matters. While looking for a job after graduation, Franco chanced to do a course at Bharat Laboratories in laboratory testing procedures. Course done, he commenced working for the company. He kept applying for jobs alongside; ` medical representative’ being much fancied those years. In 1973, Franco found long term employment at Hoechst Pharmaceuticals with a job in their quality control department. Every evening after work, he played hockey. This was on the road in front of his house in Mahim. Roads then were relatively free of traffic. They were playgrounds at hand. He also played for Hoechst in the company’s hockey and football teams, playing up to the senior division in hockey.

On Mangi pinnacle; Tungi in the backdrop

On Mangi pinnacle; Tungi in the backdrop

From the old Matheran hike

From the old Matheran hike (Photos: courtesy Franco)

Purists in climbing and hiking, look down their nose at commercial trips. Yet it is through such visits that many Indians begin their engagement with the great outdoors. In 1979, Franco reached Kashmir as a tourist on a trip arranged by the Mumbai based-Lala Tours and Travels. On return he realized one thing – he visited Kashmir, yes; he saw nothing of its high mountains and wilderness. So the following year he went on a trek to western Sikkim. His companion on the journey was the late Roque D’Souza, a maths major from St Xavier’s working at Ciba-Geigy (subsequently merged with Sandoz to form Novartis) and a regular at the evening hockey matches. Franco’s first Himalayan trek was initially challenging. On the first day he had a tough time adjusting to the altitude. Then everything was fine. In 1981, he went to Chanderkhani Pass in Himachal Pradesh. The next year, he trekked to Sandakphu. On this trek, most of the camp leaders were from the Mumbai based-club, Girivihar. They used to discuss climbing. It was Franco’s introduction to both the subject of climbing and the club he would eventually come to be identified with. Girivihar is Mumbai’s oldest mountaineering club. Soon afterwards, Franco trekked to Matheran and Kalsubai (at 5400ft, Maharashtra’s highest peak) in the Western Ghats (Sahyadri), with Vijay Athawale, a colleague at Hoechst.

Vijay quickly became Franco’s partner in outdoor adventures. Their friendship, strong to this date, can be gauged from Vijay’s recollection of events past, starting with “ 1st September, 1977’’ – the date he met Franco for the first time at the Quality Control Lab of Hoechst. Mumbai and Hoechst were new worlds for Vijay, hailing from a distant place, educated in the vernacular language and not even fully done with his degree course. He wrote in, “ I was obviously afraid of everything around. Franco was my role-model. Calm, soft spoken, a thorough gentleman and at the same time, mischievous, ready to participate in all sorts of picnics and parties! Our chemistry matched from day one.’’ According to Vijay, one of Franco’s friends pulled Franco out on a monsoon outing and Franco in turn, pulled Vijay in. That’s how their partnership began. The outdoor bug got them and then, others at office. “ What started as monsoon outings, slowly changed to one day treks and later to overnight hikes,’’ he recalled. Vijay had heard of the annual rock climbing camp conducted by Girivihar, wherein rock climbing skills were taught. Franco and Vijay attended the camp held at Kanheri Caves inside the Borivali national park. It lasted three to four days. From then on, for several years, Vijay and Franco went for every trek and climb organized by Girivihar. “ We just liked it. It was great to be out,’’ Franco said. With Harish Kapadia’s guidebook for trekking in these ranges available in the market, the Sahyadri became playground for Mumbai’s outdoor enthusiasts.

From old Girivihar climbs (Photos: courtesy Franco)

Scenes from old Girivihar rock / pinnacle climbs. The climber seen in the photo at left is the late Anil Kumar, during his time one of the best climbers at Girivihar (Photos: courtesy Franco)

Given their regular attendance at club activities, Franco and Vijay were quickly co-opted into Girivihar’s management. Vijay was made secretary straight away. “ I was in the management committee as a sort of assistant secretary to Vijay,’’ Franco said. Those were the days of cyclostyle; the days preceding email. The schedule of outdoor activity for a specific period of time would be drawn up. It would be cyclostyled and posted to club members. Franco recalls doing this after his daily work at Hoechst. The Girivihar rock climbing camp had been Franco’s initiation into climbing. Besides Borivali national park, the other climbing crags in the Mumbai region then were at Mumbra and Kalwa. Unlike today, very few people had climbing shoes. Climbing was mostly done in `Hunter’ shoes, a model of canvas shoe with ankle guard and rubber soles made popular by Indian shoe companies. Occasionally, a climber or two seeking better grip on rock, pasted a strip of high friction rubber to the soles. Climbers set out early in the morning and climbed as much as they could.

The club’s climbing itinerary was mixed – it also included ascents of pinnacles, a pursuit that enjoyed considerable popularity in Maharashtra, where the Western Ghats are enmeshed in local history. Much of the climbing happened on weekends. That meant, major Girivihar climbs like the first ascent of the Khada Parsi pinnacle near Nane Ghat, took the club a few weekends to accomplish. The climbing style on rock was trad, that too within the limits of available climbing equipment. Right up to the early 1990s, India was a protected economy. Good climbing gear was hard to obtain and expensive. This did not impede the climbers of those days from choosing bold objectives. Their approach to climbing was however different from today; in particular, you read a route keeping in mind one’s competence and available equipment, before you climbed. Some of the pinnacle-climbs were personal projects. The club had a published itinerary of activity but was open to the private initiatives of its members.

Ruinsara (Photo: courtesy Franco)

Ruinsara (Photo: courtesy Franco)

In 1984, Franco was part of a team of friends who trekked to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal. “ We went self supported, carting along 40 kilos of stuff only to find that everything was available along the way,’’ he said. In 1985, he got into his first Himalayan mountaineering expedition with a seat aboard Girivihar’s trip to climb Swargarohini and Black Peak in Garhwal. He hadn’t yet done his mountaineering course but he was taken along as he had been regular at rock climbing in Mumbai. Black Peak was assigned as potential climbing objective for the club’s ` junior team,’ while the seniors attempted Swargarohini I and III. On this trip, Franco and two others climbed Ruinsara. He had until then never held an ice axe, never worn a plastic mountaineering boot. However, he didn’t find the transition from climbing on rock to climbing on snow difficult. An engagement with the outdoors, begun in the fallout of a commercial trip to Kashmir in 1979, was now assuming serious proportions.

In October 2013, I chanced to witness a climbing competition at the Podar College-wall (for details please visit https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2013/10/04/bouldering-competition-at-podar-college/), organized by Girivihar. Quietly standing by, watching the proceedings was Pio Linhares. During a brief conversation at his house in Mahim, Pio, 93, recalled some of his own old adventures – among them travelling with a convoy of trucks during the beginning of World War II, from Mumbai to North East India and across the border through Myanmar and Thailand to Singapore. That was when he worked for the Ford Motor Company’s Mumbai office. The Abadan years were after this phase. I asked him what he thought of his son’s affection for climbing and the outdoors. Was he prepared for the dimensions it acquired? “ I allowed him to do what he wanted. I did not hold him back. It is when you restrict somebody that they get frustrated and you need to worry,’’ Pio said.

In 1986, Girivihar decided to attempt Kamet (7756m). Franco couldn’t find the required leave to join the team. He helped reach the expedition’s gear all the way to Malari and then returned to Mumbai. Away in the Himalaya, on the Kamet trip, the idea of another expedition was born – an attempt on Kanchenjunga (8586m), the world’s third highest peak. According to Franco, Kanchenjunga wasn’t the first choice. The club’s first choice was Everest (8850m). Everest via its normal route was already booked and the available opportunity was a climb via one of the harder faces. That’s how Kanchenjunga entered the frame. The club’s junior team was told clearly – they needed to do their basic mountaineering course. By now the `junior team’ – it had the likes of Franco, Vijay, Sanjay Chowgule and Amod Khopkar – had been climbing regularly. In 1986, Franco did his basic course from the mountaineering institute in Manali then called the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (WHMI). Attempting a big mountain like Kanchenjunga requires preparation. The club’s junior team was told to select a peak and plan an expedition. They decided on Hanuman Tibba (5900m) in Himachal Pradesh. The team led by Vidyadhar Joshi, included Franco, Amod and Milind Bhide. But it turned out to be a challenging trip with the team’s progress halted by heavy snowing. Eventually Vidyadhar climbed Friendship peak nearby as a consolation. “ Eighty per cent of my trips to the high mountains ended up living in inhospitable conditions and then coming back,’’ Franco said.

The post Kanchenjunga look

The post Kanchenjunga look

Franco, from a 2002 mountaineering expedition in the Zanskar Himalaya

Franco, from a 2002 mountaineering expedition in the Zanskar Himalaya (Photos: from the collections of Franco and Abhijit Burman)

The Kanchenjunga expedition happened in 1988. Having secured from Hoechst the needed leave of three and a half months, Franco went with an advance party to the mountain’s Base Camp in Nepal. Their role – carry in the expedition’s gear and supplies. The advance party had 300 porters or so. The rest of the team flew to Taplejung and proceeded to Base Camp. Franco’s trek began from Hille, ahead of Taplejung and entailed 14-15 days walk to reach Base Camp at around 18,000ft. This included a three day-walk on the glacier ahead of camp. After reaching Base Camp, the team set out to establish Camp I. Kanchenjunga was a powerful influence on Franco. That expedition shaped the reputation he would subsequently have at Girivihar. He went up to Camp 4, at around 24,000ft on the mountain. He spent two nights there. There were suggestions that he proceed further up. He declined the offer. Didn’t a potential shot at the summit interest you? – I asked him. After all, the summit is where every mountaineer wants to be. “ I was completely exhausted and hyperventilating like mad. I was at the end of my tether. Saying no wasn’t a difficult decision for me,’’ Franco said. Girivihar’s Kanchenjunga expedition – it was the first Indian civilian expedition to an 8000m-peak – failed by a thin margin. It saw two climbers – Charuhas Joshi and Uday Kolwankar – reach above 8000m. It also saw the tragic demise of a team member, the expedition’s deputy leader Sanjay Borole.

Amid this, Franco ended up spending 28 days above Base Camp on the mountain, a significant altitude for someone to stay that long at a stretch. When the expedition was wound up, he volunteered to go with the party carrying down the body of the deceased member and proceed onward to Mumbai. This trip included another duty en route – he was deputed to meet Elizabeth Hawley, the legendary American journalist who kept a record of expeditions and climbs in the Nepal Himalaya. He also spent some time wandering about Kathmandu with his newly gained mountain-look. One of Franco’s memories of Kanchenjunga is the huge beard he acquired during the expedition. He roamed all around Thamel sporting the beard and kept it on till he got back to Mumbai. Franco considers the Kanchenjunga expedition as having been very important for Girivihar’s junior climbers like him. They climbed high on Kanchenjunga, spent much time on the mountain and worked in several camps. He recalled the case of Shantanu Pandit, who was also an upcoming climber like him at that time. Shantanu became one of those who worked the most, having walked in with the advance party and leaving only after expedition’s wrap-up. Vijay had accompanied the expedition’s film crew to Base Camp. “ It was a three month-long strenuous, tragic expedition and very few team members returned home in sound mental and physical condition like Franco did,’’ he said. The very next year after Kanchenjunga, four club members including Franco, went to attempt Menthosa (6440m) in Himachal Pradesh. They reached Camp II pretty quickly and could have gone for the summit, except – there was heavy snowfall. The team stayed put at Camp II for three days and then returned. In a second attempt on the peak, some years later, Franco would reach only till Camp I.

In Zanskar (Photo: from the collection of Abhijit Burman)

Franco, during the Zanskar expedition (Photo: from the collection of Abhijit Burman)

For Franco, the Himalaya was an on-off affair. “ I used to come off the Himalaya saying – no more of this. But after about a month of being in Mumbai, I would start planning the next trip,’’ he said. In that stage of his life, Franco had an expedition almost every year. Over time however, the zest began dipping. His problems were two – the cold and the altitude. Twice he experienced chilblains. His capacity to acclimatize smoothly also seemed to progressively fade. On an expedition to Shivling (6543m), he had his first bout of nausea at Tapovan (4463m) itself. During another trip to Kang Yatze (6400m) in Ladakh, he chose to halt his ascent short of the summit as he felt exhausted. In comparison, the Western Ghats of Maharashtra (called Sahyadri locally) stayed playground. “ I have been to many places, many times in the Western Ghats and yet enjoyed it every time. I never had that attitude of wanting to visit a place just for the heck of saying I was there. For me, every venture into the outdoors is different even if it be a repeat visit to the same place,’’ Franco said.

Franco is strongly associated with Girivihar’s annual rock climbing camp as an instructor and is possibly the best remembered of all club members for his generally supportive, nonintrusive ways. His calm, uncomplaining disposition often saw club responsibilities dumped on him. Vijay remembered an adventure camp from years ago, wherein the camp’s lady instructor had to leave after a few days. The question was – who will replace her? The choice was unanimous – Franco. “ Whenever others were reluctant to accept a responsibility, he would take it up without any hesitation,’’ Vijay said. But that didn’t mean Franco was without preferences. There was a phase when he worked for the outdoor industry. It didn’t last because he knew his calling in the outdoors was of a different sort. However he did nudge others into the outdoor line. Manohar D’Silva is a senior instructor with the US based-National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS). Years ago, his introduction to rock climbing had been through a Girivihar camp (the 32nd camp held by the club), his batch of trainees becoming much loved at the club under the acronym, RC-32. Manohar wrote in about Franco, “ besides being super impressed by this fifty plus-year old person easily climbing rock faces, I was deeply influenced by his fitness routine. It greatly contributed to me losing close to thirteen kilos in eleven months. More than ten years later, I continue to be impressed by Franco’s increasing level of fitness and his love for rock climbing. Franco came across as a genuine human being who connected with others and was concerned about their well being. His teaching style was patient and encouraging. Franco was directly responsible for me switching to the outdoors as my vocation. I vividly remember the conversation over tea in an Irani cafe in Mahim where Franco laid to rest my apprehensions of making ends meet through work in the outdoors. That conversation was a turning point for me. I will always be indebted to him for that.’’

A typical evening at the Podar College-wall (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

A typical evening at the Podar College-wall (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Shyam Sanap, 32, is a talented climber. At his peak, he was often called the best boulderer in Mumbai. He has known Franco for at least 15 years. According to him, Franco’s climbing has steadily improved. At 65, he is doing some of his best climbing. “ At the wall and at the crags, Franco not only does his share of climbing, he also attempts problems being tried by stronger climbers, much younger to him in age. He does not waste any opportunity to climb that comes his way,’’ Shyam said. Aniruddha Biswas (Aniruddh) reached Girivihar through RC-32. Franco credits Aniruddh for much of the improvement in his climbing that happened in his later years. Time spent in the US saw Aniruddh’s climbing improve dramatically. “ Aniruddh used to keep on encouraging me. I now climb hard. I try to play tag with all the youngsters around. I enjoy it. I don’t care if I can’t do the hard stuff they do. Just attempting it makes me happy. Over time I have realized that I can also do it,’’ Franco said. At the Podar College-wall, I suspect there is more to the young company Franco finds himself in these days, than meets the eye. It speaks of his adaptability. In 2003 Vijay moved to Goa. As they aged, the climbers of Franco’s generation faded, transformed to being organizers or became high priests and commentators of the sport. Franco soldiered on, climbing. Long ago, it was the old black and white photo from Matheran; later – Girivihar’s classic climbing years, today – the Podar College-wall and Belapur’s crags. The one constant has been climbing and the outdoors; connections with visitors to life built around these experiences. As the clock ticks, the crowd around him has been getting younger. The Podar College-wall is the deep end of such youth. “ It is awesome what he is doing at this age,’’ Anuj Naik, 28, climbing since the past one year at the Podar College-wall, said. Besides many years spent climbing around Mumbai, Franco has climbed rock in various places in India – from Badami, Hampi and Yana in Karnataka, to Pachmarhi in Madhya Pradesh and the Miyar Nallah area in Himachal Pradesh. He has also climbed in Sicily, Italy. “ Now I am thinking of a climbing trip to Greece,’’ he said. Along the way he took voluntary retirement (VRS) from Hoechst, served as president of Girivihar and stayed a bachelor. He is also a devout Catholic who likes his periodic visits to the church.

“ I hope I can climb as long as the body permits. I just want to climb rock. I have always loved rock climbing. With all the modern climbing that has taken off, I wish to lead a 7a someday. That is my goal. As regards big mountains, I find altitude and cold challenging. So that is a bit difficult,’’ he said. In the pantheon of climbing grades, 7a is arguably the beginning of truly difficult, demanding climbs. This author is a very average – probably bad – climber. The hardest route he ever led was a 6b or near about. Stand in the author’s shoes, add Franco’s age and say lead climbing – 7a acquires a different hue; it is an engaging challenge. It may seem a bit puzzling – this courting of climbing as pure physicality (which is the image sport climbing evokes) after beholding climbing on a much larger canvas in the Himalaya. In disciplines like bouldering for example, the equivalent of a whole mountain at altitude to tackle, will be a tricky move or two, utterly strenuous but rarely exceeding 20ft in height. Compared to bouldering, bolted sport routes are longer but as predetermined, pre-protected routes they can be said to be partial to highlighting the physicality and edginess of climbing than the art of figuring out an ascent. Franco concedes this. On the other hand, he avers, he has a high tolerance for pure action, physicality and game formats thanks to his old school days. He doesn’t mind the perceived loss of thought and grandeur when world reduces to action filled-sport climbing in finite space. Is there something of a life simplified, a return to old days and St Sebastian Goan High School in erstwhile mountaineer hanging out at the Podar College-wall or dreaming 7a at 65? One wonders.

Franco (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Franco (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

When I first met Franco in the late 1990s, he had just acquired a pair of green classic climbing shoes called Kamet, his first pair. Then a black and purple Boreal Laser was added to the collection. Thereafter as climbing acquired intensity among the devout in Mumbai, climbers – Franco among them – burnt rubber fast. Now he carries an Evolv Pontas, a Five Ten Galelio amd Anasazi to the crags. I asked Franco if he had set out to be a climber. “ I think the story of my life is that I just drifted. I kept doing things, meandered to wherever the current took me, stopped where the current stopped and then, carried on again from there,’’ he said. In Franco’s case this would seem to have become a unique strength. Unlike the average rock climber / mountaineer who bristles with achievement or loves to add arrows to his / her quiver of achievements, Franco has remained a very approachable person. With three decades of climbing under his belt, he has memories and stories. But the way he recollects – akin to taking out an old volume from the shelves and blowing the dust off it – you get the impression that he lives in the now and here. Those who have climbed will agree – that’s one of the experiential imprints of climbing, especially its increasingly young, action filled-genres like sport climbing. At Mumbai’s crags, at the Podar College-wall – that is how people and Franco are. It is a celebration of one move, the next move and the now in both. Along the way, in the many hours accumulated climbing, you notice a passing number – 65.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. He would like to thank Sharad Chandra for allowing the use of one of his photographs.)

THE GREEN MANGO

Photo: Shyam G Menon

Photo: Shyam G Menon

“ People say that mangoes remind them of their childhood,’’ Gaytri said.

We were at her farm in Onde, a long drive from Mumbai.

It was mid-April.

A day could be described in one word – hot.

Towards afternoon, a palpable stillness settled on Vrindavan Farm.

No breeze; just the heat, like sticky ointment on the skin.

Both the dogs snoozed.

Gaytri took a nap.

I am stretched out on a bed in the veranda. My eyes rested on my toes; I discovered them, said hello toes, I counted them, I rediscovered them, said hello toes again, I counted them once more – so on. From a corner of my eye I could glimpse the surrounding green. I knew mangoes lurked in that green. An old taste surfaced in the brain. A craving grew. “ Shall we?’’ a little boy within, enquired.

There is a rule at the farm.

If you want to eat mango, you pick one that has fallen to the ground.

It was a bit like being lost at sea – water, water everywhere but not a drop to drink.

I remembered the times I had thrown sticks, sent it spinning so that it slashes a mango’s link to a tree branch and drops it earthward. I remembered negotiating long bamboo poles with stick tied to their end like a slanted `T,’ through the dense foliage of a tree, up to a cluster of mangoes and bringing them down. I remembered clumps of leaves – the nests of fire ants – that came down along with the mangoes. You ran off seeing it come down and dashed in to collect the mangoes and move off to safety. Sometimes you climbed a tree, careful not to disturb an ants’ nest, stretched your hands out for the mango and oh hell – the ants got you! I remembered disloyal trees that grew in our compound but extended its fruits to the neighbour. How do you make sure those fruits could be hooked and brought down towards your side and not the equally eager neighbour’s?

Late afternoon, unfailingly that week in April, the breeze revived. Lying in the veranda, I never used the fan during those hot afternoons. It made the arriving breeze distinct. Delightful licks of relief. I saw the mangoes Gaytri had collected and kept on the veranda. I succumbed to temptation. I examined them. They were slightly soft, specks of yellow on their skin like grey hairs of wisdom to a human being. In fruits, they call it approaching ripeness. I come from a family split down the middle in terms of how it liked its mango. No, not the middle, more like lopping off the bulge of a mango, a side – I am that lopped off piece, the minority. Everyone liked their mango ripe and within that, many wanted it so oozy ripe that they loved squeezing and sucking the juice out of it. A ripe mango was often dessert after meals.

Kids loved to squeeze the ripe mango, authoring many a funny moment at the dining table. It is an art that gets perfect with practise and the rookie typically sent fruit juice shooting like a mini fountain toward someone engaged in serious discussion. You know what the Prime Minister should do? Psshhht….patch of yellow fruit juice on the nose. At least once, a cousin managed to send the mango’s seed flying. The adults would glare; the children would try to hush up their laughter and be poker-faced, all serious. The more they did so, the more they laughed. My cousin Manju – she was the queen of such infectious laughter.

I liked that fun. But my preferred style of mango was in minority; in retrospect, a sign of things to come in adulthood, for most of my tastes – from politics to social and cultural tastes – have reduced to minority. I liked the ripe mango on my plate to be firm when sliced. I liked it best when it wasn’t altogether sweet but bore a dash of the sour taste of its wild childhood. And I liked it best – as in best among best – when it was still green; firm, sour, white within and served with salt and chilli powder mixed in oil. The whole idea of climbing up a mango tree was to anticipate this marvellous, simple dish. The vast and sometimes overgrown environs of the house where my father’s younger sister lived, was favourite hunting ground. It had a few mango trees. We – our aunt included – knew exactly when to pluck the mango of such childhood dreams.

At Vrindavan Farm, from gate to farm house, I had seen mango trees. It was all green, green mangoes. I was beginning to feel like a fruit eating T-rex in a paradise of potential prey. Viewed from above, maybe atop the farm’s water tank, you see a procession of violently shaking trees as mango eating T-rex slices through the area. “ Great shot,’’ Steven Spielberg tells me as we discuss my role atop the water tank.

I applied for permission.

Gaytri Bhatia is a NOLS instructor; friend and colleague from work in the outdoors.

Friend, colleague – maybe rules bend? – I thought.

Her rules stayed firm.

It had to be fallen fruit.

She had a valid reason for it – each green mango plucked from the tree, is one ripe mango less by harvest.

I couldn’t be T-rex in a mango version of Jurassic Park.

So T-rex lowered its head to earth and walked around like a cow. The first couple of pickings were so-so. And terribly agitating, for just as you straightened from picking up the best you could find on the ground, your eyes encountered at nose level the choicest green mango still attached to tree and well, laughing in your face. You hoped you had high mental powers to bring the guy down without you physically doing anything that broke Gaytri’s rules; maybe in another lifetime when I am God. The slightly ripe ones I found on the ground, however returned a decent dessert after dinner that night.

The next day, the Gods smiled.

The farm had cashew trees. What all can you do with cashew fruit? – That had become an engaging question. With a kitchen at hand, I was determined to experiment and get a Nobel Prize even if it meant working with a gas mask on to handle the fruit’s pungent odour. In a world winning awards left, right and centre for all the silliest reasons, it is a long time since I got one. So why not – say, the award for surviving the most testing culinary experiment goes to…..?

Out collecting fallen cashew fruit and keeping an eye open for the one thing guaranteed to have me outrun Usain Bolt – the snake, I came across a perfect green mango fallen to the ground. It was wholly legal as per the farm’s rules to pick up and bang on in terms of required hardness. My heart danced and sank all at once. I was in tears. It was a moment of melodrama befitting the dreariest soap on TV. The mango was perfect! In the end the T-rex in me, won. The stomach and its enterprising ambassador upstairs – the taste buds, triumphed over sensitivity and philosophy.

I spent the evening relishing the mango with salt and chilli powder.

Did it remind me of my childhood?

Yes it did; fleetingly.

Then, I turned my back on years gone by and looked the other way, joining an army of people conditioned to do so.

I suspect it is because I am scared.

I fear the mango will take me back to a place I love too much to return to the present.

(The author Shyam G Menon is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)

ARRIVED AS TRIATHLETE, LEAVING AS RUNNER

Andrea Reinsmoen Stadler (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Andrea Reinsmoen Stadler (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

“ Mumbai made me a runner,’’ Andrea Reinsmoen Stadler said.

Around us, at a cafe in the city’s business district called Bandra-Kurla Complex (BKC), the end of yet another working day brought more executives and financial types to coffee. Outside, the traffic had picked up. Not far from BKC, to one side, lay the edge of an urban congestion that is so typically Mumbai. To another side, lay the busy Western Express Highway, gathering evening’s peak hour traffic. Between population, congestion and rising traffic, you often wonder: how do Mumbai’s inhabitants manage to run? Somehow they do.

Over the last few years, Andrea has emerged one of the familiar faces on Mumbai’s running circuit. She is a powerful runner. Yet the fact is – Andrea, a teacher by profession, didn’t consider herself a runner as much as she considered herself a triathlete.

Andrea, 40, grew up in Quito, Ecuador. As a youngster, she was into all types of sports, from basketball and volleyball to even fencing. “ Any sport – I would go for it,’’ she said. Except two – she didn’t like golf, she didn’t like running. Things changed a bit, when she moved to Switzerland. There she did a lot of cycling, swimming and playing games like squash. Then somebody suggested that she try running as a way to prepare for the triathlon. It was trifle daunting. “ I just thought running was boring. I found it monotonous. Unless you are on a beautiful trail, it’s mentally challenging. I guess, so is swimming. But gliding through water is a much better feeling than pounding cement,’’ she said.

The challenge of a triathlon was however an engaging idea. She liked the triathlon format for the variation in activity it offered, including variation in training. Her first triathlon was in a small town in Switzerland. “ Running is the weakest component in my performance at triathlons,’’ Andrea said.

Photo: by arrangement

Photo: by arrangement

From Switzerland, she shifted to Dubai where she continued participating in triathlons. “ Then I did the 2004 Dubai Marathon. It was painful. The last 30 minutes was a torture. I couldn’t walk properly for a week after that. I didn’t want to run a marathon again,’’ Andrea said. She was certain that one of the expectations she had from any physical activity is that she be able to return to a normal life after indulging in it. “ The Dubai marathon episode was also when I decided that if I am to do something, I should train for it; I should be prepared for it. Not just finish but finish well, injury-free and be able to continue with my work and family,’’ she said.

All this was in 2004.

While running irritated Andrea, the triathlon continued to engage. She had a podium finish in the Half Iron Man (1.5km swimming, 90km cycling, 21km running). “ I used to tell people, I run only to finish the triathlon,’’ she said.

From Dubai, Andrea moved to Minnesota in the US, where she continued to participate in triathlons. In the US, she found herself a trainer and trained under him for two years. She placed fifth in a Half Iron Man. Following that, the trainer pointed her towards the Minnesota marathon, which was just a month away. Recalling old experiences, she was reluctant. But the trainer gave her a plan. She finished that event in 3:48 hours, injury-free with no aches or pains. “ After that race, my mom, husband at the time and daughter took a nap. I was wide awake, ready to do something else with my day,’’ Andrea said.

In 2008, she left the US for Mumbai, India, where she secured work as a teacher at the American School. Andrea said she had the habit of searching much on the Internet for a profile of whichever place she was moving to, especially in terms of prospects for the physically active life. When it came to Mumbai, there was a lot of slip between the cup and the lip. The physically active lifestyle was definitely around but the overall congested environment in which it resided was something the Internet hadn’t prepared her for. For the first time, she was also staring at an activity calendar very weak in triathlons and strong in running.

Andrea realized she would have to change.

Photo: by arrangement

Photo: by arrangement

Initially she was staying in the Mumbai suburb of Bandra, running regularly on Carter Road. One day, she met Giles Drego, a well known trainer. “ He was my first contact here in running,’’ Andrea said. Giles encouraged Andrea to sign up for races. She ran her first Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon (SCMM), India’s flagship event in running. She participated in the smaller events too. The first time one of the authors of this piece saw Andrea was in fact at a 10km-hill run in Thane. “ Anything that was open for participation, I would go for it,’’ she said. Once she got into the groove of things, she began liking the Mumbai world of running.

“ I look forward to races here because of the people,’’ Andrea said.

She put that observation in perspective:

Running in Mumbai is hard for most expatriates. The infrastructure is not quite what they are used to. Andrea felt that way many times. What compensated was the human connect. The help she got from other Mumbai runners had her come out to run even in the extreme heat and humidity of the city. According to her, at first it was the knowledge that Giles would be out either training or walking his dog and would wave and say hello that kept her going. Then she met a runner, Anil by name, who daily ran 15km. He would wave and say hello. Little by little she met Mumbai’s runners and they included her in their runs. Once as part of training, she needed to do a 30km-run before work. She messaged runner Purnendu Nath about it. Within an hour he had a route figured out with people meeting her at different stations to run alongside and bring food and water, all the way to her school. “ I was amazed by the willingness of everyone to come out and help,’’ she said.

Similarly, what struck her most about the Bandra-NCPA run are the people who volunteer their Sunday morning to wait for runners at different points with water and refreshments. “ They have big smiles and are full of encouragement. The community here is just so giving, more so than in other countries I have lived in. It might be things you do naturally in your culture but it is these gestures that made me want to continue going out in Mumbai,’’ Andrea said.

Running in Ladakh (Photo: by arrangement)

Running in Ladakh (Photo: by arrangement)

Not long after she reached Mumbai, Andrea had to go through a divorce, a painful phase for anyone. Around this time she trained intensely, prepared well and successfully completed a 100km-run in Ladakh called Zen Challenge. “ The 100km-run was something that came at the right time in my life. I wanted a challenge. I love challenges. This was one. Training was hard as I had to find time to fit in all the hours of training I did. At that time, it seemed doable. I won’t do it again,’’ Andrea said. Although she trained hard, she didn’t resort to any special training for running at altitude. She just made sure that she reached Ladakh ten days before the event to acclimatize well. The Ladakh experience left her very happy. “ I saw myself as a triathlete. Mumbai made me a runner. I wouldn’t have otherwise done 100km anywhere,’’ she said.

For the observer though, there is an interesting side to Andrea’s run in Ladakh. Much of this district tucked in the mountains of Karakoram and Himalaya is above 9800ft elevation. Quito, the capital of Ecuador, where Andrea grew up, is the highest located capital city in the world at an elevation of 9350ft. Although she took up running seriously only after leaving Ecuador, in some ways, Andrea would seem a child of altitude. (For an article on an ultra marathon in Ladakh please visit https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2013/10/19/an-ultra-marathon-from-the-sidelines/)

Reema Agarwal is a runner, yoga instructor and nutritionist. Her initiation into running happened in 2010, in the US. In 2012, she moved to Mumbai. She met Andrea during an open house session at the American School where her son studies. Their conversation drifted to the topic of running. “ I think Andrea is one of the best woman runners here. Unfortunately, I have not been able to train with her because her pace is much faster than mine,” Reema said. According to her, Andrea is not only a good runner but also a very helpful, knowledgeable and humble person. “ She comes from a different country and a different culture. Yet you will never hear her complain about anything,” Reema said.

On Cotopaxi (Photo: by arrangement)

On Cotopaxi (Photo: by arrangement)

When she came to meet us, Andrea had a large bag along. That – she said – was how she went to work every day, lugging along what she needed for her training sessions. She had to be creative about her training schedules and plans being a working, single mother with two daughters. “ I train myself without having a race in mind. I can run a 21km-half marathon anytime. That is how my body is prepared now,’’ she said.

Her emphasis on training and her focus evokes the image of a person with a structured approach to life. “ This structured approach has been developing; I guess more so when I was studying in Switzerland. I can’t pinpoint when it started. It has transferred to my work. Part of it is because I enjoy it,’’ Andrea said. Her appetite for the active lifestyle also saw her visiting the climbing crags at Belapur in Navi Mumbai and the small bouldering wall at Mumbai’s Podar College.

June 2015, on completing her stint as teacher in Mumbai, Andrea Reinsmoen Stadler moves back to Ecuador.

She looks forward to continue pursuing her interests with a new one added to the list – mountain climbing. During Christmas holidays in 2013, she had been to Cotopaxi (5897m), Ecuador’s second highest peak.

(The authors, Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon are independent journalists based in Mumbai. The dates of events and timings mentioned herein are as provided by the interviewee. Where photo credits say `by arrangement,’ the photos have been sourced from Andrea.)

THE CONSTANT RUNNER / UPDATE

Dnyaneshwar Tidke (Photo: by arrangement)

Dnyaneshwar Tidke (Photo: by arrangement)

April 21, 2015: Navi Mumbai based runner, Dnyaneshwar Tidke, completed the full marathon  in Boston in 3:00:57 hours.

At the just concluded 2015 edition of the prestigious event, he was ranked 404 among men in his age group of 40-44 years.

The men’s section of that age group had 2392 runners.

His overall rank was 2839 and within the men’s category, 2679, data from the event website showed.

Don’s best timing to date for the full marathon is 2:53, which he achieved at the Pune International Marathon in December 2011.

For more on Dnyaneshwar, aka Don, please see https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/04/11/the-constant-runner/

The winner in Don’s age group at the 2015 Boston Marathon, Danilo Goffi of Italy, had a timing of 2:18:44, which translated to 15th place overall and 15th within the men’s category.

The top finisher overall in the men’s category, Lelisa Desisa of Ethiopia, had a timing of 2:09:17. The top finisher overall in the women’s category was Caroline Rotich from Kenya at 2:24:55.

On the event’s website, as per numbers quoted under the category ` countries of citizenship represented,’  India had 19 runners enrolled of which, 18 started the race and 17, completed it. Corresponding figures for India under the category `countries of residence represented’ were 10, 9 and 8 respectively.

In terms of timing, Don topped the list of Indian runners under the citizenship category.

The other Indians in the list after Don were Abhaya N Menon (Falls Church, VA, USA) – 3:03:41, Ashok Nath (Bangalore) – 3:04:26, Sunil M Menon (Hyderabad) – 3:05:39, Dharmendra Dilip Kumar (Jersey City, NJ, USA) – 3:17:11, Thomas Bobby Philip (Bangalore) – 3:30:08, K.C. Kothandapani (Bangalore) – 3:38:06, Jitendra Rawat (Jersey City, NJ, USA) – 3:38:17, Roopali Mehta (Mumbai) – 3:44:49, Vaishali Kasture (Bangalore) – 3:48:54, Neera Katwal (Bangalore) – 4:07:06, Praveen M Bahadduri (Wayland, MA, USA) – 4:14:09, Ruiban F. Coutinho (Ashland, MA, USA) – 4:35:02, Mehar Kaur (Cambridge, MA, USA) – 4:47:03. Akshay Singh (Cambridge, MA, USA) – 4:52:22, Ranganath Papanna (Medford, MA, USA) – 5:17:01 and Udayaditya Chatterjee (Boston, MA, USA) – 5:26:36.

Altogether the 2015 edition of the event had 30,251 runners on its rolls. Of the lot, 98 per cent finished the race.

Incidentally, the fastest time by an Indian in a marathon – the national record – remains still in the name of the late Shivnath Singh.

In 1978, he ran the marathon in Jalandhar in a time of 2:12:00.

Singh passed away in 2003.

His obituary in the Times of India noted, “ At the trials for the 1976 Olympics, Shivnath running a marathon for the first time, stunned everybody by clocking 2:15:58. In Montreal, the Naib Subedar defied sore and painful shins to finish as the best Asian and 11th overall out of the 71 who finished the marathon. For almost three-fourths of the race, Shivnath was up in the front with the best. He was alongside American Bill Rodgers, a Boston marathon winner, and Finn Lasse Viren who was trying the marathon after winning the 5,000m and the 10,000m for the second time. The field also had the 1972 Olympic champ, Frank Shorter, and the eventual winner, Waldemar Cierpinski of East Germany. Cierpinski clocked 2:09:55 and Shorter 2:10:45.8. Shivnath ended 11th with 2:16:22.0 which was only a little slower than his then best of 2:15:58.”

(The authors Latha Venkatraman and Shyam G Menon are independent journalists based in Mumbai. The photo used in this report was sourced from Dnyaneshwar Tidke. The timings and rankings mentioned are sourced from the event’s website and as at the time of reporting; race data usually takes a while to settle down.)

“ WHY NOT EVEREST?’’

Dr Murad Lala (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

Dr Murad Lala (Photo: Shyam G Menon)

“ My take in life is that whoever I see as a hero – I see that person as somebody who had the right opportunity to do something and grabbed it. I will respect that person but not idolise him.’’

Meet Dr Murad Lala.

He was born in 1963, in Secunderabad, the youngest of three brothers.

His father was a pilot in the Indian Air Force, who passed on the credo that no matter what you choose to do in life, you should try give it the best shot you can. Dr. Lala studied at Lawrence School, Lovedale, Ooty. He wasn’t a very academically oriented student. The school emphasized all around development of the individual. Outdoor activity was part of school life.

When it came to college, given his desire to be a pilot, the youngster shifted to Bengaluru. There, while doing his BSc, he became active in the National Cadet Corps (NCC), going on to represent Karnataka at the annual Republic Day parade in New Delhi. He was adjudged the All India Best Cadet (Air Wing). Thanks to that, the state offered him a seat to study medicine or engineering. He picked medicine, enrolling at the government medical college in Bellary. He would periodically come to Bengaluru to continue his lessons in flying and pursue getting a pilot’s licence. Eventually he took his Private Pilot Licence. Following his MBBS he did his MS in General Surgery and MCh in Surgical Oncology from the Kidwai Memorial Institute of Oncology in Bengaluru. For some years thereafter, he worked at Tata Memorial hospital in Mumbai. Later, he shifted to Hinduja Hospital, Mumbai, as a Consultant Surgical Oncologist.

The old bug for the active lifestyle entered the frame every time Dr. Lala travelled out on fellowships or training workshops. Thus he did skydiving in the US and deep sea diving in Australia. Back home, he teamed up with his paediatrician wife Dr. Mamatha Lala, to race in the Raid de Himalaya car rally thrice. Murad drove their Maruti SX4; Mamatha was navigator. In the third attempt in 2009, they finished third overall. The rally route taking them through the Himalaya and over some of its high passes was Dr Murad Lala’s introduction to the Himalayas. It sparked off the idea of climbing mountains as a new line of adventure, particularly attempting the world’s highest peak, the 8850m-high Mt Everest.

Next pit stop for the Lalas was however in an entirely different direction.

Dr Lala near Island Peak base camp during the Tripe Crown Expedition (Photo: courtesy Dr Murad Lala)

Dr Lala near Island Peak base camp during the Tripe Crown Expedition (Photo: by arrangement)

In 2010, there was a vacancy for a doctor aboard the Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica, where India has maintained a base station for several years now. Realizing that six months away from work would be impossible for him, Dr Lala encouraged his wife to apply. Dr Mamatha Lala applied, trained for life on the frozen continent with mountaineers from the Indo Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) and finally did that stint as expedition doctor in Antarctica. Dr Mamatha Lala was aware of her husband’s desire to attempt Everest. While training with the ITBP, she asked around for inputs.

Armed with the information and wanting to train before climbing any mountain, Dr Murad Lala wrote to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) expressing his wish to do the Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Courses offered by India’s government run mountaineering institutes. The best known of these training institutes are run in league with the armed forces. The imagination at work has traditionally straddled a few key aspects – among them emphasis on youth, performance and potential livelihood. The then 49 year-old Dr Lala, got the same reply others in that age group have been receiving: the institutes don’t cater to over-aged people.

I asked Dr Lala, what the physician in him thought of the establishment’s response given many middle aged Indians these days live an active life filled with physical activity. He said he couldn’t make sense of it.

On the other hand, those wedded to pure ethics in mountaineering would wonder why someone who hasn’t climbed a mountain before should choose Everest for first peak. “ Why not some other peak?’’ I asked Dr Lala. “ Why not Everest?’’ he asked in return. It is a debate that divides climbers sharply. Dr Lala wasn’t thinking of Everest without homework. He knew that amid all the mountaineering stories surrounding the peak, Everest by its normal route is not a technically difficult mountain to climb. “ This is not K2, which I know I shouldn’t try,’’ he said. Everest is a test of endurance that is additionally, a well guided ascent now.

With training denied by officialdom in India and still wishing to climb Everest, Dr Lala turned to the Internet. He contacted the Canadian company Peak Freaks (http://www.peakfreaks.com/). They had a training program for the novice wishing to attempt Everest; they first put you through an expedition called the Triple Crown Expedition which involved climbing three peaks of lower elevation – Island Peak (6145m), Pokhalde (5806m) and Lobuche East (6119m). In October 2012 Dr Lala did the Triple Crown Expedition with Peak Freaks. It was structured in such a fashion that the participants got trained in the fundamentals of climbing as the expedition progressed. At trip’s close, the team leader would assess and decide who is eligible for Everest. Of 13 people who started out, three completed the training. Dr Lala was one of them. He was told by the team leader that if he wished, he could attempt Everest with Peak Freaks in 2013. It left him with mere months to prepare. There was also the hurdle of securing finances and two months-leave from work.

At the start of the Khumbu Icefall, Mt Pumori in the backdrop (Photo: courtesy Dr Murad Lala)

At the start of the Khumbu Icefall, Mt Pumori in the backdrop (Photo: by arrangement)

In Mumbai, Dr Lala’s search for sponsors fell flat. But amazingly, his request for leave was accepted. The hospital he worked at got sufficiently enthused about his endeavour and made a contribution to the expedition kitty as well. The rest – a sizable amount as the whole budget was around three to three and half million rupees – was put together from his resources and savings. Then came the issue of how a busy cancer surgeon will train to be physically fit for the expedition. He jogged at night after work; began walking the long distance from where he stayed to his place of work, he started climbing the stairs of his tall hospital building daily, he used every opportunity he could avail at work to snatch a move or two of recommended exercise. Dr Lala also visited Altitude and Pilates, a gym in Mumbai that offered the facility to train in a chamber capable of simulating high altitude. He did all this training as much as he could. He picked up some essential gear like his backpack, from AVI Industries in the city (for more on AVI Industries please see https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/02/26/avi-industries-the-fortitude-of-the-lone-shop/), worked at the hospital till the eve of his departure and then flew from Mumbai to Kathmandu on March 28, 2013, Everest in mind.

At Kathmandu, he met his new team members. He also shopped for the remaining personal gear he had to have in place. He bought La Sportiva mountaineering boots meant for high altitude climbing and for warm wear, he bought locally made stuff reputed to work as well as the expensive big brands. The team then flew to Lukla and trekked to Everest Base Camp (EBC). At EBC, before starting the climb, there was a prayer meeting (puja) after which the clients were taken to the Khumbu Icefall to learn techniques required for crossing it, including how to handle the ladders bridging the icefall’s massive crevasses. There was also an acclimatisation overnight stay at Kala Patthar (5644.5m), a high point in the vicinity of EBC, known to offer fine views of the Everest massif. The day before formally commencing the ascent of Everest, the clients were allotted personal Sherpa guides. Dr Lala’s constant friend for the ascent was Mingmar Sherpa who had already climbed Everest six times. Asked what a Sherpa guide will do and won’t do on a commercial expedition to Everest, Dr Lala said that while they were there to help the client, it is the client’s onus to get himself or herself to the top. This matched the emergent scene on Everest outlined by Dawa Steven Sherpa, Managing Director, Astrek Group, at the annual seminar of the Himalayan Club (for that report, please visit https://shyamgopan.wordpress.com/2015/02/16/everest-may-get-costlier/).

Negotiating a crevasse on the Khumbu Icefall (Photo: courtesy Dr Murad Lala)

Negotiating a crevasse on the Khumbu Icefall (Photo: by arrangement)

The ascent was tough on the Mumbai doctor. “ For me everything was a struggle,’’ Dr Lala said of his climb up the mountain from EBC and the first major challenge en route (in some ways it’s most formidable) – the Khumbu Icefall. The team leader had set out clear rules for safety. Turn round times had to be respected and cannot be compromised. There were time limits for each stage of the climb, failing to meet which you turned back. You had to be able to reach Camp 3 and be comfortable there without oxygen. Else, you could be asked to turn back for early oxygen use typically betrays poor acclimatization. “ I always kept myself within the aerobic zone. I never tried to catch up with anyone ahead of me and start panting. I proceeded at my slow pace. I was always the last in the group, it had been so even in the hike up to EBC,’’ Dr Lala said. The group had started out from Kathmandu with eight clients. Within the first week of commencing ascent, three turned back. The remaining five soldiered on. “ As it happened, we were five persons from five different continents,’’ Dr Lala said.

Given their slow pace, Dr Lala and another climber were always the first to leave camp for a day’s ascent. The impact of some of these experiences on the doctor, planted on Everest from Mumbai with just the Triple Crown Expedition in between, can be imagined. At Camp 1, the team was caught in a blizzard for three nights. “ I found that very unnerving. It was total white out during the day. Supplies were limited and there was nothing to do except stay in the tent,’’ he said. The toughest portions of the ascent for him were the Khumbu Icefall, the Lhotse face, the summit push from Camp 4 and the Hillary Step. Thanks to his slow pace, Dr Lala had to leave Camp 4 for the summit an evening at 7PM with the temperature at -36 degrees. He recalls being exhausted within half an hour. Around 9PM, his headlamp – with a new set of batteries in it – failed. It could not be revived. The lack of sufficient light made the climb even more difficult. In the middle of all this his electric toe warmers were also not working (much later it was traced to the apparatus not being switched on). “ The ascent was a battle with physical fatigue. I was wondering how to put the next foot forward,’’ he said. If the team failed to reach the feature called `the balcony’ by 6AM, they would have to turn back. They reached the balcony by 1AM, well ahead of the cut off time for that stage – 6AM. The climbers rested here to change oxygen cylinders and have a quick snack. Then they pushed for the South Summit (from where you get to see the main summit), tackled the Hillary Step with its traffic of the season’s climbers and reached the summit of Mt Everest.

Approaching the summit, early morning May 19, 2013 (Photo: courtesy Dr Murad Lala)

Approaching the summit, early morning May 19, 2013 (Photo: by arrangement)

Dr Lala was on top by 9.10AM on May 19, 2013. Those who reach the summit are reminded to take photos with their goggles, helmet and oxygen mask off for identification (needed for certificate). The Mumbai doctor went through all these moves. “ I just wanted to get down. With my mask off and thereby no bottled oxygen to breathe, I was beginning to feel breathless up there,’’ he said. The descent commenced at 9.30AM and the team was soon engulfed by clouds. “ For me, the descent was also a struggle,’’ Dr Lala said. By the time, he got back to Camp 4, it was 6PM. The whole summit effort had taken 23 hours. Next afternoon he reached Camp 2 and the following day he made it safely back to EBC. That was when he allowed himself to accept the realization that he had successfully climbed Everest. He gave away most of his gear to the Sherpas with first choice on everything reserved for Mingmar. On May 28, he reached Mumbai, seven kilos less in body weight. June first week, he was back at work at Hinduja Hospital.

In the early flush of celebrations and reports in the media, Dr Lala was portrayed as the first Indian doctor to climb Everest. In the ensuing months, Dr Lala discovered it was incorrect for there were doctors from the Indian armed forces who had been up there much before him. He is the first Indian civilian doctor to climb Mt. Everest. Not that it matters to him – he said he did not climb Everest for any record or recognition. The only use of such distinction is – had he known of this likelihood, it could have been a means to market his Everest-attempt and find sponsors, something he drew a blank on in early 2013. I quizzed him some bit on the lack of purity in climbing Everest as a client in a commercial expedition. “ I was going there to do something I wanted to do. My take in life is that whoever I see as a hero – I see that person as somebody who had the right opportunity to do something and grabbed it. I will respect that person for what he or she did but I won’t idolize the individual. Just because I am an ordinary person, it does not mean that I can’t have an extraordinary dream, ’’ Dr Lala said.

On the summit of Mt Everest (Photos: courtesy Dr Murad Lala; Photo montage: Shyam G Menon)

On the summit of Mt Everest (Photos: by arrangement; Photo montage: Shyam G Menon)

A question valid in Dr Lala’s context is whether he is a mountaineer or an adventurer. Although he took his pilot licence, it has since lapsed. He did skydiving and deep sea diving but is neither a skydiver nor a deep sea diver in the real sense of the term. He did the Triple Crown Expedition and climbed Everest but whether he is a mountaineer or not would be lost in debates about what makes one a mountaineer. A likely answer lay in a development almost a year and a half after the Everest climb. The five clients on Everest – one from each continent – had bonded as a team. They kept in touch. Over July-September 2014, four of them including Dr Lala, applied to orbit the planet with Virgin Galactic. Founded by British industrialist Sir Richard Branson one of Virgin Galactic’s stated aims is space tourism. The results of the application and selection process were due in December 2014. Unfortunately, the company lost a spacecraft in an accident in October 2014. The results of the selection process never came. The proposed trip has been put off, Dr Lala said. For those still wondering whether he is a mountaineer or an adventurer, the application for space travel should provide a clue.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. Where ` by arrangement’ has been mentioned in photo credits, the photos have been sourced from Dr Murad Lala)