SATELLITE COMMUNICATORS: AN OLD GHOST RETURNS TO HAUNT

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

Hiking, running and cycling appear to be having their mountaineering moment in India with at least three instances of foreigners detained at Indian airports for carrying Garmin devices hosting technology not permitted for civilian use in India, reported from December 2024 onward.

Based on these news reports and a conversation with Garmin India, the crux of the problem seemed that the devices in question sported satellite communication technology, currently not allowed for civilian use in India and permitted import only for government use. Of the three instances cited, two – involving a cyclist and a runner – were from Goa, while one involving a hiker was from Delhi. The nationalities were Czech, Canadian and Scottish. The story of the Canadian ultrarunner / trail runner, Tina Lewis, was reported by the running website IRunFar and the website of the reputed magazine, Outside.

All the above-mentioned cases involved devices from Garmin’s inReach range of products. As per details on the website of Garmin, its inReach devices allow global two-way messaging via the global Iridium satellite network. If necessary, it can also trigger an interactive SOS message with one’s GPS coordinates to the Garmin Response 24/7 staffed emergency response coordination centre. The problem encountered in India concerns the device’s capacity for two-way communication via satellite. Based on past similar instances, it is also possible that the satellite network used in these models – Iridium – may be a problem. When contacted, an official of Garmin India said that the company imports and retails only its non-inReach line of products for use by civilians in India. Products from the company’s inReach range are imported exclusively for government use, he said. A report related to the recent detentions in India (and devices involved confiscated at the respective Indian airports), in Mint, dated January 3, 2025, said, “ The use of a device with built-in satellite transmitter is found to violate the Indian Wireless Telegraphy Act of 1933.’’ According to the Mint report, “ Garmin inReach and Garmin Edge 540 GPS devices are not allowed in India without authorisation. Earlier, a few foreign nationals were detained in India for carrying a Garmin Edge 540, a GPS-enabled cycle / bike computer that tracks speed, distance, and other metrics.’’

Indian embassies and consulates around the world have put out notices warning foreign visitors not to carry any satellite phone to India without prior permission as the device would be seized and the holder of the phone may be prosecuted under Indian law. These notices are available on the Internet. Information about the Garmin Edge 540, available on Garmin’s website, shows that it is compatible with at least two products hailing from the company’s inReach range of products (inReach Mini and inReach Mini 2). By definition, GPS devices use satellites. Based on available information, what appears to put the inReach range on the wrong side of the law in India – as happened with satellite phones earlier – is the capacity for two-way satellite-based communication; in the case of inReach devices, two-way messaging. Further, the notices put out by Indian missions abroad mention Thuraya / Iridium satellite phones as banned in India. As mentioned earlier, Garmin’s website says its inReach devices use the Iridium satellite network for their two-way messaging.

A perusal of the Indian Wireless Telegraphy Act of 1933 (it is available on the government’s website) showed its Section 3 sayings so: Prohibition of possession of wireless telegraphy apparatus without licence. — Save as provided by Section 4, no person shall possess wireless telegraphy apparatus except under and in accordance with a licence issued under this Act. Section 4 said: Power of Central Government to exempt persons from provisions of the Act. — The Central Government may by rules made under this Act exempt any person or any class of persons from the provisions of this Act either generally or subject to prescribed conditions, or in respect of specified wireless telegraphy apparatus. India’s aversion for satellite communicators is not new. India denying permission for the use of satellite phones was a vexing issue in mountaineering. The government banned the use of these phones by civilians after it was found being used by militant groups (the laws were further tightened following the 2008 Mumbai terror attacks). Mountaineering teams arriving from overseas sometimes saw their satellite phones seized; instances of phones brought in and subsequently activated on a hike or expedition provoking a hunt by authorities for the source of the signal, have also occurred. In mountaineering, the limitation the ban caused, was most felt in situations involving accident at altitude and the same requiring emergency medical response and evacuation. Without a satellite phone, people ended up running to the nearest point where conventional mobile phone signals were available. In days preceding widespread mobile phone network, members of Indian civilian teams have even rushed all the way to the nearest village or town to get news of a mountaineering mishap out. In life and death situations, every second counts. Following representations made to the government, the government allowed the use of satellite phones in mountaineering on a case-by-case basis with users adhering strictly to the regulations laid down. There is a process to be followed for the same.  

However, as felt at ground level, this still falls considerably short of the needs of mountaineering and the business of adventure tourism, sources in the trade said. According to them, the government allowed select adventure tour operators – among the biggest in the business – to acquire satellite phones. Satellite phones can also be hired from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). But in practice, these devices can’t still be used in mountainous states with sensitive international borders. Thus, the phones get carried along on expeditions, for example in Uttarakhand, but it’s a completely different situation in Jammu & Kashmir, Ladakh, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh. “ It is a strange situation. Indians going abroad to climb or hike enjoy the access to emergency communication that devices like satellite phones provide, for there are no restrictions in most countries overseas. But people climbing the Himalaya from India – foreigners and Indian – can’t avail the device except in certain portions. Fact is – satellite phones and satellite communicators have become the norm overseas for mountaineering expeditions and hikes in remote areas. People wish to stay connected. I don’t think the Indian government will be able to adequately develop tourism in the border areas if it does not acknowledge this reality,’’ the owner of one of India’s biggest adventure tourism companies said, when contacted. It must be mentioned here that against the backdrop of satellite phones banned in India or allowed only with strict restrictions, some civilian outfits working in the outdoors, took to using personal locator beacons. These devices can dispatch a SOS signal to its associated satellite network. There is no provision for two-way communication of any sort. It simply transmits the exact location where emergency medical response / evacuation is being sought. The signals, in the case of these beacons, are picked up by the network of the Indian Space Research Organisation (ISRO) – that is a major difference.  

Between mountaineering’s past rendezvous with satellite phones and the recent cases of people being detained for possessing Garmin devices sporting the inReach technology, there are some differences, both as regards the device and as regards a potential solution. According to the Garmin India official this blog spoke to, the company’s inReach devices don’t allow a phone conversation via satellite. What the technology permits is messaging. For more information, he suggested that this blog reach out to the company’s headquarters. On the face of it, the recent incidents of detention in India over possessing Garmin’s inReach devices, would seem a finer interpretation of Indian law. The old stories from mountaineering concerned voice telephony; the recent instances of detention for bringing Garmin inReach devices, pertain to satellite links enabling messaging and data exchange. From what one could make out, as long as a device offers satellite communication technology for civilian use that is not permitted by Indian law, it remains a violation. The authorities can’t be faulted. Outside magazine in its piece on Tina Lewis, noted that it reached out to the public relations office of the Central Industrial Security Force (CISF – they manage security at Indian airports) but got no response. It says it got no response from the Indian embassy in Washington DC either. Garmin’s website includes India in a list of 14 countries that may regulate or prohibit the use or possession of a satellite communicator.  Others on the list are Afghanistan, Crimea region of Ukraine, Cuba, Georgia (SMS), Iran, North Korea, Myanmar, Sudan, Syria, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Russia.

For an overview of what the recent detentions meant to India’s cycling community and the navigation devices cyclists have invested in, this blog spoke to one of India’s top cyclists. According to him, in tune with the growth of cycling – and within that, performance-oriented cycling – in India, there has been a rise in the acquisition of sophisticated bike computers. In due course, cyclists themselves noticed the problems they may face in getting the devices past airport security. Consequently, there has been over time, a sharing of information among cyclists about the relevance in getting an Equipment Type Approval (ETA) for their device from the government. The document is useful when dealing with security agencies. There are also lists in circulation, which mention the devices from various manufacturers that one may possess safely in India. All this has happened through the initiative of cyclists and cycling groups; the government, this blog was told, has been hardly pro-active in keeping the cycling community informed. “ When the recent spate of detentions happened, there was fresh worry in the cycling community. This is because by Indian standards of affordability, bike computers are quite expensive. Losing one through confiscation at the airport, is a lot of money lost,’’ the cyclist explained. However, he did not think that inReach devices may have been mistakenly acquired by Indian cyclists or adventurers because its two-way messaging and SOS facilities are most sought after by solo adventurers. Indians into solo adventure pursuits, are few, he felt. His views were shared by another leading cyclist; this person, well-known in the field of ultra-cycling. “ When the news of the recent detentions appeared, it caused a flutter in the community. The problem we face is that airport security and security agencies in general, see the Garmin name on a device and instantly become suspicious instead of bothering to find out if the particular model is banned or not. The problem becomes more pronounced in border areas. The last time I was in Leh; after I finished cycling, I chose to courier my Garmin back to Mumbai,’’ he said.   

Illustration: Shyam G Menon

Today’s hassles in the digital domain have a humble, yet no less accusatory, ancestor from the era of print. There was a time when civilian hikers and climbers possessing detailed contour maps of the Himalaya, were treated suspiciously by Indian security agencies. Some of that suspicion has since faded; some has merely carried over to the digital medium. As we know through human experience, in times of technology evolving fast and what is restricted today becoming accepted tomorrow, there is often a gap between law and what technology is capable of. How does one plug or bridge these gaps such that the use of technology for healthy purposes is permitted and those that aren’t so, get countered? For instance, in the Outside article on Lewis, she says that the Garmin inReach Mini, which she had, was an integral part of her travel kit and she didn’t feel the need to research before carrying it on her Indian trip because there had been no objection in the other countries she visited. Besides, as she pointed out, GPS technology is nowadays found even in watches. To develop bridges of understanding, engaging the authorities and lawmakers in conversation is essential.

This blog spoke to a retired bureaucrat who had previously served in a very senior position in the Indian government and is familiar with matters related to internal security. He suggested that if hikers, cyclists and motorcyclists wished to see such devices used, then making representations to the government – as happened in the case of mountaineering – would be the apt way out. The community of users / potential users has to discuss the matter with the government. In mountaineering, the government eventually understood the need to some extent and responded making a few concessions. For the world of hiking, cycling and running (even motorcycle touring), it may be more difficult, he said. The main catch here would be that unlike mountaineering, which is restricted to the Himalaya and the Karakorum, the locales for these activities span an entire sub-continent. There is also the challenge of users in this category being higher in number than the mountaineering community. Not to mention, in a typical mountaineering expedition, there may be a satellite phone for a whole team. It suffices. In comparison, bike computers and SOS devices with two-way messaging ability are more individually owned. Still, making representations to the government could be a beginning, he said. When contacted, a senior official of the Adventure Tour Operators Association of India (ATOAI) said that ATOAI has already taken up the matter with the government. The problem, he said, pertains mainly to Iridium-enabled devices. To fault is lack of awareness; both on the part of travellers arriving without checking whether the devices they are carrying are banned in India or not and Indian security agencies, who treat travellers suspiciously just because they have a GPS device on them. He was clear that there is no option but to be on the correct side of the law. “ Awareness is the only way out,’’ he said. A critical shortcoming in this context is that while Indian missions overseas have put out notices on the items banned, normal tourists and solo adventurers – the sort who may not be guided in their visit by an informed tour operator – have limited means of finding out which devices and models therein stand approved. This was highlighted by the leading adventure tour operator this blog spoke to as well; he said that the method of finding out what is approved should be easy. The ATOAI official said that ATOAI has asked manufacturers like Garmin for a list of devices and models therein, approved for use in India, which the association hopes to make publicly accessible via its website.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai)

THE STARS OF MAHABALESHWAR

Day 4, early morning, near Mahabaleshwar; the turning with scenic view and a seemingly abandoned teashop, we stopped at (photo: Shyam G Menon)

I saw stars.

In a ditch, roughly 25 kilometers before Mahabaleshwar. It was early morning; the sun wasn’t out fully yet. Fourth day of a trip on bicycles that had long been in the making. The route was the idea of my friend Prashant Venugopal. After short trips, some repeated; to Khopoli, Lonavala and Matheran, cycling from Mumbai to Goa and a circular trip – Navi Mumbai to Navi Mumbai via Malshej Ghat and Bhor Ghat – we had been looking for more, short to medium distance multi-day trips in Maharashtra. That was when Prashant came up with the suggestion that we try going to Mahabaleshwar, not via the regular route touching Panchgani and Wai but through a couple of ascents and descents connecting Konkan and the Deccan Plateau.

For me, the time when we first discussed this trip and the period after that were neither pleasant nor suited for multi-day trips. After a brief illness, my mother passed away and during that phase and the months which followed, my life had become a case of frequent shuttling between Mumbai and Kerala. One was never long enough anywhere to settle into a pattern of doing something regularly, consistently. There was no running or hiking. On top of this, life as freelance journalist had become biting hard and I was not at all happy with what the politics prevailing all around had done to my relationships, friendships and sense of India as extended playground. I was sad. Also precisely why, one needed to get dunked in some activity.

The T-shirt (photo: Shyam G Menon)

As 2024 drew to a close and the phase of Prashant’s annual leave kicked in, we spoke of Mahabaleshwar again and decided to try it once I got back from my latest visit to Kerala. While I was in the southern state, my friend B was diagnosed with an illness. She embarked on therapy set to last a few months. B liked to hike. She has also been a supporter of this blog, even written for it. I wanted to do something that would keep her motivated through her treatment period. Suddenly Mahabaleshwar seemed perfect. I could dispatch photos of the ride everyday to B and her father, who was my classmate from college. Immediately after I got back from Kerala, I travelled to Bengaluru with Latha Venkatraman, to write about the 2024 IAU 100 KM World Championship. There, at the Brigade Road outlet of Decathlon, I bought two blue T-shirts and had them printed with the slogan: Allez B. Allez, which is the French equivalent for saying Come on, had been a frequently heard term during my days in climbing. I kept one T-shirt to wear on select days of the proposed Mahabaleshwar trip; the other, I couriered to B.

Beyond the lights in the foreground; Khopoli, seen from atop Bhor Ghat (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Every bicycle trip for me, starts with a visit to Inderjit Singh Khamba (Inder). Known well to cyclists in Navi Mumbai as both a passionate cyclist and one of the best mechanics around, Inder, after several years of operating a bicycle maintenance shop had shut down the business and accepted employment at an automobile company manufacturing electric vehicles. This happened, I think, sometime past mid-2024. Luckily for the local community of cyclists, the new job wasn’t to Inder’s liking and he returned to restart his shop. Anticipating Mahabaleshwar, I had parked my cycle with Inder before the Bengaluru trip. Once back from my assignment, I went to pick it up. Thanks to the bike having idled at home during those months of my relative inactivity, we knew even after its servicing that the rear wheel needed to vindicate itself as problem free. It was losing air and although we changed both the tyre and the tube, within a couple of days after servicing the bicycle, I had a set of punctures. Given the tyre was new and seemingly free of external damage, Inder deduced that the trouble was happening from inside the rim. The puncture marks on the tube were also on the side facing the spokes. So as a final measure, we changed the rim tape. The patient vindication of the rear wheel as problem-free ahead of attempting any long trip, which Inder recommended, couldn’t be had because between work in Bengaluru and the Mahabaleshwar trip, I was pressed for time.

Cycles loaded and ready to leave; at Woodland hotel, Lonavala, start of second day (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Around 11 AM on December 13, 2024, Prashant and I set off for Lonavala from Navi Mumbai; the first day of our journey to Mahabaleshwar. He rode a Giant hybrid bicycle with 700c wheels; I had my longstanding mountain bike, a Trek 4500D with 26-inch wheels. Both cycles had loaded pannier bags. I had my Allez B T-shirt on. Truth be told, the worst part of any bicycle trip from the Mumbai-Navi Mumbai region is getting out of town. The appetite people have for whizzing around on ever increasing numbers of automobiles, despite the dust and congestion they cause, amazes. Not to mention – accidents. Overrun by vehicles, our cities no longer feel like liveable spaces. Their roads and roadsides betray a Mad Max-touch of speeding steel, noise, aggression, motor oil and careless parking. Somehow, a majority of us appear to find this great aesthetics and motivation for life. Not me. I was glad to sense this snapshot of the city, fade as Khopoli approached. But then something happened for which I must thank Inder, the automobile industry and a wonderful Muslim gentleman whose name, sadly, remains an approximation in my brain.

The cafe next to a school, in Amby Valley, which had a poster showing the Tel Baila pinnacle (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Between Chowk and Khopoli, my rear wheel got punctured. Yet again. We took off the wheel, got the tyre and tube out, inflated the tube and despite the faintly audible sound of air escaping couldn’t locate the puncture. We required a bucket of water to dip the tube in. Luckily, we had stopped very close to a petrol pump and this pump had an old man who repaired tyres. The other stroke of luck was that Inder, realizing over time that I wasn’t the performance type of cyclist and more the lazy wanderer sort, had changed my cycle’s tube from one having the less popular Presta valve to the Schrader valve. The latter meant, I could fill air at any petrol pump or bicycle shop on the way. It added versatility in repair and maintenance particularly when traveling long distances, self-supported. It worked at the petrol pump near Khopoli. Armed with a bucket of water, the elderly Muslim gentleman quickly located the punctures – there were two and they were tiny. He patched the tube up and filled air. It held. I paid him well and asked what he felt about my situation – with two punctures repaired in the rear wheel and no spare tube yet (I had foolishly overlooked acquiring a spare tube with Schrader valve), would he recommend that I continue to Mahabaleshwar? “ Don’t worry. It will hold,’’ he said, pointing out alongside that the puncture most likely happened because I hadn’t calibrated the air pressure to the additional weight of the pannier bags. I believe he was right. I had plonked the pannier bags on the rack and simply rode on without checking the air pressure afresh. I asked the old man for his name, which he told me. Notwithstanding the fact that his name slipped from my memory amid the worries of those hours and became an approximation, he is, in my eyes, the person who made this journey possible. The faith he had in his work and the assurance he gave, meant a lot. It helped me continue towards Lonavala instead of backtracking to Navi Mumbai. I overlooked keeping a picture of him for this travel account. My apologies sir.

On the road; between Tel Baila and Tamini Ghat (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Cycling on to Khopoli, we promptly picked up spare tubes for both the bicycles. By now, it was getting late. Darkness had descended and we were cycling with our headlights on. Bhor Ghat was crazy and annoying. There was heavy weekend traffic. Indian roads have unguarded edges that dip sharply into ditches and drains. We found ourselves pressed that side by the unforgiving flow of vehicles. At the top of Bhor Ghat, we paused for rest at a small shop selling candies and soft drinks. We were now on the Deccan Plateau. The lights of Khopoli in Konkan, were visible in the distance, below. By the time we got to Lonavala, there was a traffic jam in town. We wove in and out of it and finally located a restaurant to have dinner. The town was overflowing with people come for the weekend and Lonavala’s relatively cool weather. As we sat down for dinner, Prashant discovered that he had lost his phone. Now, that is a major problem. To begin with, he was a senior corporate executive and I knew that the phones of such people lost, could be a genuine worry for them. Second, although touring casts cyclists into private spaces and cocoons of solitude, there is definite use in being able to stay connected. We were down to one phone between the two of us. Third, on our trips, Prashant is typically the navigator and a mobile phone is useful for navigation. I tried Prashant’s number. Somebody picked up and then switched off the device. It hinted of lost and found graduated to theft. Thankfully, the late hour notwithstanding, the local office of Vi, the service provider, responded when we called. With their assistance, we dialled the number concerned and had the SIM blocked.

The small teashop we stopped at, between Garudmachi and Tamini Ghat (photo: Shyam G Menon)

The question now was what to do with our journey. I was ready to turn back for I knew that losing a phone could be significant for Prashant. What I didn’t know was that he had bought into Allez B. He said, let’s proceed. And so, post dinner, we found ourselves parked for the night at an old hotel called Woodland. They had a wedding due on the premises the next day and we promised we would be out in the morning. Early next morning, Prashant made a quick trip to the shop at the top of Bhor Ghat where we had stopped to rest; just in case the phone was lost somewhere there. There was no sign of the phone anywhere. After a cup of coffee in Lonavala, we cycled on to Amby Valley. Soon after passing the Indian Navy’s training establishment in Lonavala, one of the tell-tale signs of being in the hills started manifesting. Its something you find in hilly terrain in the peninsula and up north in the Himalaya. People are sure of things in their vicinity but not places a bit further away. So, directions to Amby Valley and details about it could be easily had but not anything much about the road to Nizampur, which was down in Konkan on the other side. Nizampur was our destination for the day. A good amount of cycling done, we stopped for early lunch at a café, next to a school, close to Amby Valley. The travellers quickly became an item of interest as school kids flocked to see the geared cycles fitted with pannier bags. The school was having its sports day and every now and then cheering was heard. Our fan following was therefore fleeting; we were in constant competition with budding athletes next door. The café had a poster of attractions in the area – among them, the rock face bearing the harder route on Tel Baila, a rock pinnacle which had been part of our goals in rock climbing, years ago. I sent a photo of the poster to our friend Sunny Jamshedji in the US asking if he remembered it. Got a reply: yes, he did. Then, we cycled on towards Tel Baila and at the fork ahead of the village named after the pinnacle (or the other way around) took the road leading towards Tamini Ghat.

Day 3 evening; Prashant, cycling uphill towards Mahabaleshwar on the Poladpur-Mahabaleshwar Ghat road (photo: Shyam G Menon)

After a stretch of unnervingly firm concrete road, we hit 20-25 kilometers of road so bad that it was butt-hurting and spine-squashing. Even when one got off the cycle to stretch one’s limbs, them joints in the body, they jingled and jangled. A break availed at a small teashop in the heat of afternoon, we extended that a bit, to escape the worst of the sun. Then several kilometers ahead and more rural dwellings later, exactly where a grand resort stood, the road miraculously transformed to smooth tarmac. From there on, through that locality featuring posh resorts and yoga retreats and the big luxury vehicles their customers travelled in, cyclist’s butt was as though on a feather pillow. The road was smooth. A little after Garudmachi and perhaps an equal little bit before Tamini Ghat, we stopped for tea at a lonely café run by a young woman who delighted us by the interest she took in our journey. She had questions about cycling, about the journey – it made us happy. Tea had, we bid her goodbye and sailed down the long Tamini Ghat road, still on feather pillows, till we were rudely jolted back to reality by the dusty environs, truck traffic and rudely firm concrete roads near Posco’s steel plant in the Konkan plains. Around 7-7.30 PM, we drew into Nizampur. Joshi’s restaurant, which served us a fine Konkan thali, also fixed us accommodation; we found it in a nearby apartment, rented out to travellers.

The shack run by Rahul and his wife, a little past the milestone marking 25 kilometres left for Mahabaleshwar (photo: Shyam G Menon)

December 15 morning, having downed plates of superb poha at a nearby cafe, we left Nizampur for Poladpur. Our original plan had been to take a forest road from Nizampur. While that may have kept us off heavy traffic, we discovered that it added considerable distance and that could be a problem when the time available overall for the Mahabaleshwar trip, was limited. So, we chose the straightforward, conventional route. The road from Nizampur to Mangaon was pleasant. But getting on to the Mumbai-Goa highway at Mangaon was a lot like the trip’s first day; traffic whizzing by and speeding vehicles driven dangerously. It was flat road (inclines were mild) and totally open to the sun. The industrial feel and abject monotony of the highway, coupled with the sensation of motorized metal carriages driven nonchalantly so fast nearby, made cycling here quite boring. Suddenly the butt shaking progress of the previous day across rural roads in the Deccan, quite free of traffic, didn’t seem bad at all. Rather get myself shaken and stirred than endure this unending tongue of concrete, marching relentlessly on to me like one of those invading hordes from Lord of the Rings. If these hot, dusty rivers of concrete with motorized projectiles hurtling around at high speed be the stuff of future by GDP, then God help human imagination. One felt jealous that in some other countries, dedicated long distance cycling routes existed.

Rahul Dhovale (photo: Shyam G Menon)

We hunkered down and laboured. Two cyclists moving steadily in the hot sun. Our consistent cycling – that hunkering down – appeared to work. We reached Poladpur in good time, earlier than we expected. Knowing that we were slowly getting tired, had a long climb back to the Deccan Plateau ahead of us and had to be back in Mumbai for Prashant to address his lost phone and also receive his son arriving from overseas, we decided to head up the ghat road to Mahabaleshwar without delay. Like in a long multi-pitch climb, a bivouac seemed better option than a hotel room. But first, I contacted Ravi, a travel agent in Chembur, who had promised to get us and our cycles safe passage on a bus from Mahabaleshwar to Mumbai. He needed advance notice to get things done. Following that conversation and a visit to the ATM, we settled into a steady grind, cycling up the ghat road from Poladpur. We took stops to hydrate, liberally. At one place where we sat down to rest, we watched several people on expensive motorcycles go by. A couple of them waved at us. I must say – the non-motorized felt nice, at being acknowledged. Woohoo – we exist!

Prashant, asleep in the small shack (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Late in the evening, we stopped for tea at a small teashop, approximately 20 kilometres uphill. As we sipped tea, a group of men assembled there enquired where we were headed and what our plan was. We asked if there were teashops further ahead. For some reason, they said no and advised us to push on as Mahabaleshwar was no more than 25 kilometres away and in their estimation, we would be there in no time. I heard my soul of mid-fifties age, laugh. Either they didn’t know what cycling with load felt like or in that inevitable, unsaid competition among men to be manlier than others around, the next 25 kilometres had to be nothing less than easy. Our butts were actually sore from long hours on the saddle and our legs were aching. I had no difficulty being less manly. And it was clearly late evening. It seemed a wise decision to find a place to camp. There was some open space a little away from the teashop. We asked if we may spend the night there and avail the services of the teashop for dinner and breakfast. However, by now the menfolk were gone and the lady who managed the shop seemed a bit uncomfortable with the suggestion. So, cups of tea had and our bottles refilled with water, we cycled on hoping that we might find a clearing ahead.

The moon; view from inside the shack (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Not long after we left the teashop and somewhere past the milestone formally indicating 25 kilometres left for Mahabaleshwar, at a sharp turning on the road, we encountered the small shack run by Rahul Dhovale and his wife. As I drew close to the shack, Rahul immediately invited us to sit down for tea. I asked him if it would be a bother if the two of us slept in the shack. Early next morning we would be off. Without fail. Not only did Rahul say yes to our staying there but he and his wife also gave us two rounds of lime juice and a pot full of poha for dinner and breakfast. We paid him for everything in advance. The shack was on the edge of a precipice falling off into a valley. At the broad end of the valley, the sky turned scarlet over the Konkan plains as the sun slowly set. With darkness setting in, Rahul and his wife cleaned up the small shack, packed their belongings and left for their house in a nearby village. We had the shack to ourselves. There was no electricity. It was now pitch dark. We used headlamps minimally to avoid drawing attention.

View from ground level; vehicle headlights on the shack’s fragile fabric (photo: Shyam G Menon)

The shack was an interesting experience. Located as it was on a turning, on the busy ghat road to Mahabaleshwar, the headlights of vehicles plying up and down shone through the frail green fabric serving as the shack’s walls. The headlights barrelled towards us at eye level as we were lying on the floor, before veering off. The road was intimately near; one sensed what roadside actually meant. I thought of the many people living so. To save weight in the pannier bags, I had traded my sleeping mat for a thin plastic sheet. It clung to the cold floor like a passionate lover and in the process, let every inch of the terribly uneven surface poke my back. Somehow, none of that mattered. I was tired and the shack felt notoriously secretive as nobody passing by would guess that there were two cyclists within. Rahul had told us to keep the cycles inside the shack and should anyone nosey come around, tell them that we had Rahul’s permission to stay there. What impressed me particularly was Rahul’s description of the weather. “ It will be comfortable for some time even after the sun goes down. Then a wind will start blowing and step by step, it will get chilly,’’ he had said. He was spot on. That wind woke me up a few times in the night. It was chilly but not terribly cold. Enough though to make me toss and turn in the light sleeping bag. Meanwhile my relation with vehicular traffic had touched a new dimension. On the narrow and busy ghat road, one side a precipice and the other carved into the rock face, we soon discovered, it was near impossible to even take a leak without being caught by a passing headlight. In age of social media and photos thoughtlessly uploaded, that’s the last thing one wants.

Pratapgad fort, ahead of Mahabaleshwar (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Late in the night, a vehicle full of noisy people parked close to the shack. One or two of them, seemed drunk. We stayed quiet. But somebody saw the cycles kept within and stumbled towards the shack. The light from his mobile phone outed the two cyclists. We thought we would have to reproduce the quotes Rahul had told us to – that we had permission. But it turned out to be one of the men from the teashop we had stopped at before reaching the shack. “ Hey, it is our cyclists,” he said to the others, laughing. He asked if we had eaten, were feeling alright and wished us a good night’s sleep, for we were guests in the area. Then he stumbled back to the car. The engine fired up and the vehicle’s lights disappeared down the road in a fading riot of inebriated chatter.    

Early next morning, I stirred out of my sleeping bag and wishing to take a leak, headed to the rock face-side of the road where a ditch existed that may shield me from the lights of oncoming traffic. I didn’t have my specs on and it was only after my right foot was suspended above the ditch and going in that I realized it was deeper than I estimated. What should have been a simple case of stepping down, quickly evolved into an angular fall and as I dropped, my head was whacked by a jutting overhang on the adjacent rock face. I saw stars. There was burning pain and I knew in an instant that I had cut myself and was bleeding. I landed on my feet and saw dark droplets from my head, stain the soil. Miraculously our fortunes held. I had a pretty comprehensive first aid kit. We quickly cleaned up the wound with water and antiseptic, applied an antibiotic cream and bandaged it. With helmet on, the bandages seemed held in place. We cycled the remaining 25 kilometres to Mahabaleshwar, pausing for well earned cups of tea at a hotel near the entrance to Pratapgad fort.

Day 4, early morning; on the way to Mahabaleshwar (photo: Shyam G Menon)

The high points of this final leg of the journey were two. First there was a place, another turning on the road with a seemingly abandoned teashop planted right there, where the early morning view of the Maharashtra Sahyadri was absolutely lovely. It was fantastic, taking a break here in that mix of chilly ambiance and the sun’s first rays. A distant ridge or two glowed like McKenna’s gold while a December blue graced the hill geography overall. The second high point was just outside Mahabaleshwar town when very close to where we elected to rest for a few minutes, a pair of giant squirrels appeared and spent time clambering up and down trees. It was one of the happiest moments of my life. What a way to be welcomed to Mahabaleshwar!

By around noon on December 16, we were in Mahabaleshwar proper and cups of tea had, cleaning our bicycles just outside a spacious hotel room we had checked into. I dispatched my final set of pictures to B and her father. I generally avoid measurement and Prashant who likes math and does measure, had lost his phone. So, we estimate, roughly, that the total distance covered was around 300 kilometres. Later that afternoon, I headed to the local government hospital to get a tetanus injection and have my wound inspected. When I showed the wound to the nurse and told her that I wanted a tetanus shot, she scolded me for not having come earlier. I felt impressed – she scolded me because I hadn’t shown a head injury promptly, I thought. Wow! Turned out, she wanted me to go and come back later. I then made my way to a medical store in the market place where the elderly owner directed me to Dr Jangam, whose practice was just down the road. “ He is my doctor too,’’ the gentleman said. The good doctor gave me a tetanus shot and an antibiotic ointment, different from the one I had in my first aid kit. Later that day, we treated ourselves to strawberry and cream and visits to the Mapro (food products) showroom and Elsie’s Dairy & Bakery, close to 175 years old.

Giant squirrel, near Mahabaleshwar (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Back in Mumbai, Ravi kept his word. Next morning we had seats on a bus from Mahabaleshwar to Mumbai. It was the conventional Indian tourist experience, people with several pieces of luggage per head. And more in tune with character – talking loudly, singing and eating. And they were adults, of my age and older. Maybe travel makes children of us all. As we departed Mahabaleshwar, our thoughts were with the bicycles in the boot. They are sturdy and fragile at once. Few realize this apart from cyclists. At Panchgani, I gazed out of the bus window and dutifully remembered Freddie Mercury, who went to school there. Somewhere near Wai, I slept off and when I woke up, I was startled to see, backlit by the sun, the profile of the man seated across the aisle – the profile looked so much like Alfred Hitchcock’s; eyes closed, contemplating the next scene to shoot. I looked around to see if there was a Cary Grant, Grace Kelly or a James Stewart also in the bus. Nope. It was director minus his favourite actors.

The bus made good time, rationed stops along the way and by around 4 PM was in Navi Mumbai. Despite Ravi’s request and our own for safe transport of the cycles, we found in Navi Mumbai that people had not only dumped luggage on top of them but someone had also tried to remove the rear wheel of my bike possibly in an effort to move things around. I guess that’s the price we will keep paying as long as existence in India is imagined by those with no empathy for the physically active lifestyle. And yet, there are glorious exceptions – I won’t forget the old Muslim gentleman at the petrol pump near Khopoli who gave me confidence when I faltered, the young woman near Tamini Ghat who asked us about our journey, Joshi and his friends who helped us in Nizampur, Rahul from a village near Mahabaleshwar, who said yes without hesitation to two travellers staying in his shack and even the motorcyclists who waved at us. Bless them all.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai)                                      

MOZART IN AUSTRIA

Shikha Pahwa (photo: courtesy Shikha)

The UTMB Mozart 100 was not on my radar.

It happened by chance.

My plan was to go to Italy and I was looking for a race in or around Italy on very specific dates. The only one I found was Mozart 100 in Salzburg, Austria.

Seen on the race website it looked like an extremely scenic run (this was where The Sound of Music was shot after all). City roads, mountains, river, vast green fields, it had it all; enough to tempt me. Plus, the date was perfect. Looking at the distance options, as usual, I scrolled down to the longest one; 105k it said. Doable I thought. The cut-off was 22 hours which should have made me curious as it seemed liberal compared to some other races but I took it at face value. I knew this was a race with some crazy elevation but what I ignored or rather didn’t understand was the extent of trail and the grade of trail involved. I signed up. It appeared a done deal.

I started training around three months before the race with focus more on mileage. Since Delhi is flat, training for elevation is a challenge. My trainer Krishan Tiwari trained me like he had for the Ladakh runs of the past. There was a lot of resistance training to give the climbing feel, some walking-running with a weighted jacket, in addition to strength training and consecutive long runs. All this in the Delhi summer was completely draining and combined with my regular work, it exhausted me 100 percent. But that’s how ultrarunning (and training) is – never-ending runs irrespective of time, weather and terrain.

Fast forward to race day. I reached the start point at 4:30AM (5AM start). With 700 participants arrived, the place looked like a festival! None of my earlier ultra runs had witnessed such a big crowd and they all looked like experienced trail runners. I was very intimidated and what got me really worried was the one common thing all of them had – trekking poles (the ones used for trail running are light and collapse to really small dimension for ease of carrying).

Photo: courtesy Shikha Pahwa

That was when it hit me that I may have got myself into something I wasn’t ready for. Forget getting poles, I had never used them! I was a 100 per cent road runner, so poles had never been needed. The one trail run I did attempt had featured a technical trail and it had ended up with me injured and a DNF to my credit. I therefore had no fond memories of trail. But now, I was at the start line of my first international race and there was no turning back. The race began and the first few kilometres were flat. It seemed to go well until I saw an arrow indicating a turn into the bushes. And there it began – not flat, not straight…just pure rocky trail.

It was a narrow path and the whole lot of us going up on it. So, we had to form a queue. Wherever there was the tiniest space on the sides, some runners would overtake. Gradually the fast runners disappeared from view. Still, more and more people kept overtaking. Their training showed in the way they moved; smooth steps, almost without much thought. Me on the other hand watched every step, holding on to branches to pull myself up where the step was too high. Around four or five kilometres into the trail I realised that I couldn’t keep using my hands for support. I needed to find my version of trekking poles. I picked a stick fallen on the ground. It took me a few attempts to find the right one; right height, weight and grip. It wasn’t perfect but helped. My free hand was still used for extra support of course. 

Given 5000 meters elevation for the race, the climbs were intense. This was just the first one, there were eight or nine more. In my mind I assumed there were five in all. I don’t know how I got that but it threw me off when they just kept coming.

Climbing up was hard and although there were faster runners, there were many around me proceeding at a pace similar to mine. So, I wasn’t all that slow. Where I did really feel disadvantaged was in the downhill sections. Usually, downhill is where I make up for lost time (and that’s because I had done mostly road runs). But here it was much slower than the climbs. It was also terrifying as one wrong step could send me rolling down the rocks or into the rocks or worse. The other runners just ran down as I would on road. It showed how experienced they were. I took my time and went as slowly as I needed to go. Others overtaking me at this stage, didn’t matter at all. I was quite okay coming in last as long as I finished without injury. Besides, somehow, I was managing to catch up with the same people on the next climb. It showed, my training did work after all. 

A slower pace in this race was not a concern, I just needed to be fast enough to reach the various cut-off points along the course within the set deadline. Failure to do so was an immediate disqualification from the race. So it had to be planned in advance and I had asked my everything-ultrarunning guide Dr. Rajat Chauhan (founder and race director of La Ultra The High) for help. Everything-ultrarunning because he had answers to all the questions, I had about long distance running in the past few years, especially when it came to the whole “ mental preparation’’ bit. He was kind enough to go through the route map in detail and advise on how to pace myself to make it to the finish line in time.

Photo: courtesy Shikha Pahwa

Going one step at a time and pushing myself mentally, I kept moving ahead. Because of the terrain my feet kept twisting to the side. Luckily no injuries there. I did trip three times along the way which gave me bruises on both knees and hands but no internal damage. The bigger problem came once it got dark. Finding my way with just the headlamp required a lot more focus but the fatigue and bruises weren’t allowing me to do so. The downhills looked even more dangerous in the dark. I was left alone after everyone ran down. To make it worse, my headlamp started acting up. It suddenly got dim and I had no backup. It looked like it could die at any point, so I quickened my steps and hoped for the best. Once I got down, there were some people around so I could see better. 

The official race distance was 106 kilometres and according to my watch it wasn’t far. Then I spied a road ahead and an aid station; I could feel the finish coming up. Looking for signs of finish, I started to jog. The road turned into the trees again and up we went! Some more up and down and we returned to a road again. The GPS was off because 106 kilometres was already done for me. Now I could see some signs of finish and hear some people in the distance. Finally, I was closing in on the last stretch and some twists and turns in the road. I found a place to put my stick down. Then, I saw my sister cheering for me, then running behind me and I finally saw the finish line. My watch showed 109 kilometres. It wasn’t a distance I hadn’t done before but this terrain made it ten times harder. It was more of a mental race for me, especially since I wasn’t prepared for it. I was way out of my comfort zone, so a rank of 420 out of 700 and being the only Indian participant felt great. 

(The author, Shikha Pahwa, is a Delhi-based entrepreneur and ultrarunner)

RUNNING SPARTATHLON

Jeevendra Singh (photo: courtesy Jeevendra)

I grew up in a village near Agra. My father worked with Indian Railways and he was posted at Tundla. Growing up in a village meant living an outdoorsy life. I was into sports during my schooling years. I did my engineering degree from Lucknow and through campus placement found myself at the Pune office of UBS. From there I moved to Singapore, Poland and finally to UK, in 2015. Initially, I lived in London. I was following an unhealthy lifestyle. My health deteriorated mainly because of the stress that accompanies work at an investment bank. I piled on a lot of weight.

I decided to take charge of my life and took to running. The solitude of running helped me heal and gave me much-needed ` me time.’ My running was largely recreational. I started participating in running events with the aim to raise funds for causes such as cancer research and the fight against domestic violence, among others. I did a few marathons including the Athens Classic Marathon, marathons in Marrakesh, Peru and San Francisco. I even ran a marathon wearing full cricket gear to raise funds. My aim was to run a marathon in every continent but I gave up that idea when I became aware of climate change and realised that flying just to run a marathon, was not the correct thing to do.

I then embarked on trail running, starting with a half marathon in the south of England. I moved to ultra distances in trail running, attempting a few trail races in the mountains of Lake District. I love trail running and since 2018 I have done only trail running. Living in London and running around on roads and pavements takes a toll on you. Don’t get me wrong, London is one of the beautiful cities in the world with lot of green areas. Yet the city running was becoming monotonous for me. So, when I stumbled on to trail running and did my first trail race, which was the Beachy Head half marathon in the beautiful Seven Sisters Cliffs near Eastbourne, I was hooked to it. Purely because being in nature triggered the genetic memory, we all have in us. Being in nature, moving on your foot for hours in these beautiful landscapes gives our body and mind that experience which our ancestors naturally had thousands of years ago. Also, for me being in the country side triggered the happy childhood memories I had with my grandparents and uncles in my village back home in India. Slowly I wanted more and more of this. Moreover, I believe in continuous progression. Therefore, I wanted to see if I can run longer than a marathon in these landscapes. That’s when I decided to do my first ultramarathon, the Grand Tour of Skidaw, which happens in Lake District, UK. It was a 70km-long race in challenging terrain but the views and scenery were breath-taking. I never looked back after that. From there i moved to 50milers (I did three of those) and then to my first 100 miler in 2021.

In 2020, the world came to a halt due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Once the lockdown was lifted, I did a run from Buckingham Palace to Windsor Castle, a distance of over 50 km. In 2021, I did the South Downs Way 100, a 100 miler. There were many elite athletes at the start line and that was quite inspiring. I wanted to do well. I ended up in the top 20, covering the distance in 19:10:39 hours. In August of the same year, my mother passed away. I hit a low and lost my motivation to run. Slowly I resumed running and realised that it was helping me heal. I wanted to take on something challenging. I decided to do Spartathlon. To my mind it was a journey that would help me go inward and deal with my grief. I had the South Downs Way 100 as a qualifying race. The qualifying time required to enrol for Spartathlon was a 100-miler race done in 21 hours. For Spartathlon, I did much of my training on the pavements, roads and parks of London. For exposure to trails, I travelled to Lake District where I ran in the lower mountain ranges. But the days leading to Spartathlon were extremely stressful. My wife’s father was ill and I nearly contemplated missing the race. But my wife asked me to go to Greece while she flew to India to be with her parent. Radhika, my wife, is a lifestyle and nutrition consultant. She helps with my nutrition plan for day to day living and also for races. She is a qualified yoga teacher and mental health coach. Except my running, she coaches me for everything else.

I flew to Greece. The race day started well after Radhika called me to say that her father had improved and was likely to be discharged from the hospital. At the start line of Spartathlon, I was the only Indian runner. It felt good to be around super-fit elite athletes. I did have a few minutes of doubts but quickly brushed them aside. Over its first few miles, the race leaves Athens, traversing through the city’s suburbs and stretch of factories. After 13 miles, we hit the coastline. There are 75 check points along the route. Every check point has a cut-off time. We were expected to hit the 50-mile mark in nine and a half hours. The start of the run was tough as temperatures were quite high and I got dehydrated leading to stomach issues. I reached the 50-mile mark with just 15 minutes to spare and that was not good. I felt stressed and doubts began to creep in. I kept saying the words: stay calm and cool. I was doing this race solo without any crew. I reached the 100-mile mark. I desperately needed a reset. At that point I ran into Graeme Boxall, an accomplished ultra runner and one of the nicest fans of the sport in the UK. He is ever present at track ultras volunteering or crewing for runners. He has given so much of his time and energy to the sport. I had met Graeme at a few track ultras earlier and got to know him. When he met me around the 110 km-point in the Spartathlon race, I was in a pretty bad shape. His encouragement was just what I needed to come out of that bad patch. He was crewing for another runner. Graeme gave me a recovery drink and helped me reset. I changed my clothes and set out.

Jeevendra Singh (photo: courtesy Jeevendra)

As I progressed into the race, my stomach situation improved. Also, the temperature started to lower. Further, the buffer between my arrival time and the cut-off time, started to increase. The night was clear and running through the vineyards and olive farms laden with silhouettes, was like a dream. For nutrition and hydration, I switched to soup and Coke. Then came the uphill mountainous stretch. It was quite tough but at the top I felt a connection with my late mother. The descent was tougher than the ascent. The path downhill was laden with loose rocks and scree. I decided to walk down instead of running it. As I started to descent, I began to feel better. For the next 20 miles my pace was quite good. I crossed many runners along the route. At dawn I was running through vineyards in Tegea. The route was headed to Sparta. It started to get warm. This time, I was careful with my hydration. The last stretch was mostly downhill. At Sparta, people were very passionate about the race. As I kept running, I heard them shout: Bravo. The city was packed with supporters cheering for each and every runner. There were children and youngsters running or cycling with us. I met a woman who had been volunteering for the race for the past 41 years. Just before the finish line, I stopped before the statue of King Leonidis and then, finally hit the finish line. In my mind, the 246 km race was split into three phases. The first phase was Be Calm, the second phase was Curious (it was mostly through the night) and the third phase was Confident and Belief.

The Swedish team was very helpful and friendly with me. They kept a seat for me at dinner, among many other friendly gestures. I am right now in the process of recovering both physically and emotionally. The race was quite demanding. I want to continue doing trail and mountain runs. More importantly, I want to be a much better athlete.

(The author, Jeevendra Singh is a runner who works with an investment bank in the UK)

CURATING A MODEL

Ashish Kasodekar (photo: Shyam G Menon)

Some events leave a deep impression.

For Ashish Kasodekar, this was the case with a project he undertook in late 2021.

Starting November 28 that year, he had run 61 marathons over 61 consecutive days. The venue was Pune University. A route had been fleshed out on its campus and eight loops of it was equal to a marathon. Few would have doubted Ashish’s capacity to complete the project; he is among the best-known ultrarunners from India. What amazed Ashish and fuelled his motivation for those two months was the support provided by others who turned up to run and keep him company. In November 2021, the pandemic was still a recent phenomenon and restrictions hadn’t been relaxed fully. Yet people arrived. Their presence gave Ashish, who was running the same five kilometre-loop for two months, something to look forward to, every day. He recalls that in that period, never once did he require a morning alarm to wake up and go to the venue. The motivation level was that good. “ It was the most beautiful thing in my life,’’ he said of the project, which showed him what a supportive human community meant. For the purpose of Guinness Records, the number of days and marathons was kept as 60 (the previous record at that time was 59). The additional one day of running was a case of testing himself after the 60 day-period.

From the impression this project left in Ashish’s mind, was born another – a quest to link a low point in geography to a high point. Initially, he imagined the run on a grand – maybe even, audacious – scale. He could try running from the Dead Sea in West Asia (it is bordered by Jordan, Israel and Palestine’s West Bank) to the Himalaya in South Asia. At over 1400 feet below sea level, the shores of the Dead Sea represent the lowest elevation on land on the planet while the Himalaya hosts its highest peaks. He also saw in the play of words framing the project, a segway to addressing the issue of mental depression, a condition spoken of as perhaps the most widespread problem of our troubled times. “ I wasn’t expecting anyone to be cured and feeling high at the end of such a long run. I was hoping, I could convince people to enjoy the running and enjoy the passage from a low point to a high,’’ Ashish said. Physical activity like running is known to release endorphins that contribute to an improved sense of well-being. As Ashish’s project encountered reality, the angle around mental wellbeing, survived. The one attempting to connect Dead Sea and the Himalaya, stayed still born. There was a reason for it.

Ashish progressively realized that the route spanning half a continent, was a political minefield. He would be running through countries that had experienced conflict or were still trapped in conflict and by the time he reached Pakistan, there would be the frosty, unpredictable ties between India and Pakistan to negotiate. True, a project of this sort may help set a new tone for politics and understanding between people but the variables over such a long and volatile route were too many. For instance, at the time he thought of the project, Ashish didn’t have reason to worry excessively about the Levant. By October 2023, there was full scale confrontation between Israel’s armed forces and Hamas.

Ashish’s project didn’t die. Instead, after his run at the 2022 Badwater Ultramarathon in the US, Low2High (as the project came to be called) got underway in a different format. To begin with, there appeared to be no problem accessing the Himalaya in India or Nepal. So, the aspect of “ high’’ was trouble-free. “ Low’’ demanded reimagination. For the lowest point in geography, Ashish decided to search within India. West Asia’s Dead Sea was thus replaced with Kerala’s Kuttanad, which is officially the region with least elevation in India. Located in central Kerala and long famed for its paddy cultivation, Kuttanad is among the few places in the world where farming happens four to ten feet below sea level. It was decided to run from Kuttanad to Umling La in Ladakh, which at 19,024 feet is currently the highest motorable pass in the world. It was also decided to cover the distance in 76 days, so that the finish coincided with India’s 76th Independence Day on August 15, 2023. Alongside, an app was designed whereby in a repeat of the community support Ashish had enjoyed in his project of 61 marathons in 61 days, a host of people who downloaded the app were visualized aggregating 76 lakh kilometres in their daily exercise sessions. The ambitious figure of 76 lakh kilometres didn’t have to come via running alone. It could be from walking, jogging or cycling – the idea being to create a mutually engaged, supportive ecosystem for the duration of the project. The punchline was: be together, achieve together and celebrate together, all of it couched in the larger paradigm of a nation being fit if each one is physically fit.

Ashish’s own target of 76 days to project-completion required him to cover 55 kilometres every day and repeat it daily without a break. Given his background in ultrarunning, both seemed doable. Prior to this project, Ashish had – among major events – run the 333km and 555km races of La Ultra The High, Brazil 135, Badwater 135 and the 61×61 event at Pune University. Ashish commenced Low2High from Kainakary in Kuttanad, on June 1, 2023. Traditionally, that is the day when the south west monsoon hits India, the southern tip of Kerala being where it manifests first. In 2023, the onset of the annual rains (Kerala has two seasons of it every year) was tad delayed. But the pre-monsoon build-up was palpable and the early days of the run were wrapped in heat and humidity (pre-monsoon-Kerala can be quite humid). As Ashish ran northward, the monsoon slowly caught up from behind. The first rain he experienced on the run, struck in Karnataka on June 11; it poured. He did 50-55 kilometres in that weather. Ashish’s daily schedule was simple. He would start running by about 6AM; after 10 kilometres he would take a tea-break, after 21 kilometres there would be breakfast. Lunch was at around 1.30PM. He would conclude his run by 4PM. It was a mix of running and walking. By 10PM, he would go to sleep.  For the first 25-30 days, he covered roughly 60 kilometres every day.  Twenty three days after starting from Kainakary in Kuttanad, Ashish reached Pune, his home town.

At Umling La (photo: courtesy Ashish Kasodekar)

Each place he passed through, left an impression. Kerala was generally clean with good local roads to run on but irritated in the early stages of the journey with its heavy traffic. In Maharashtra, traffic made the Thane-Ghodbunder stretch tough. “ Haryana was action packed. Everyone wanted to know what I was trying to do,’’ Ashish said. There were minor physical problems. After 40-45 days of running, one evening, there was pain in his leg. It was tackled. For three days, in the wake of that leg pain, he opted to walk 50 kilometres. He had an ice bath every day. The support team traveling alongside in a vehicle found a place to stay and secured the ice. His support team included his younger brother Amit, Rishikesh Gaikwad and Harikrishnan Damalpati. Every 15 days, Ashish did a medical test. Electrolyte levels and kidney functioning were checked.  Along the way, there were social engagements too. Ashish and his team distributed 35 fitness kits (each contained items like footballs and skipping ropes) to various schools; they also gave talks. By the time Ashish reached Punjab, the heavy rains that caused havoc in Himachal Pradesh in 2023, had happened. His route had to be reconfigured here and there depending on road condition and which roads stayed open. He reached Umling La on schedule, on August 15, having covered 4003 kilometres in 76 days. Notes kept by the team show that almost half the distance covered was on NH48. Second was NH3 with roughly 450 kilometres. The notes also reveal the team’s frustration with traffic at various points.

Project Low2High lived up to expectations. Except perhaps in one department – the app found roughly 8000 subscribers and their cumulative mileage was quite short of the 76 lakh kilometres originally envisaged. However, the real take away from Low2High is the template and ideation (for example, within Kerala itself, runners could imagine linking Kuttanad to the highlands of Idukki). As Ashish pointed out, his interactions with people during the journey told him that when it came to fitness, everyone from an IT professional to a truck driver, faced the same challenge of not having the time for exercise or lacking motivation for the same. With an engaging journey for central theme and the model of a community motivated enough to keep him company, he believes he can contribute his bit to get people moving.

It was early October, 2023. “ So, what’s next?’’ I asked as we reached the end of our chat, at his house in Pune.

“ I would like to try the Barkley Marathon,’’ Ashish said referring to the race in Tennessee, rated as a difficult ultramarathon with a history of few finishers. 

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai)

FINDING LIFE

Nilanjan Guha Majumder (photo: Shyam G Menon)

It is not always that one finds a cycling story behind a simple recommendation on food.

I did and it was more than cycling that I found; it was the story of an interesting existence.

Early September 2023, a bid to contain one’s cost of living in Leh, saw freelance journalist search for Ladakhi food. I knew from past experience that it may prove futile for as has happened in many tourist-destinations, in Leh too, the culinary preference of outsiders overshadows what is locally consumed. One finds stylish cafes and restaurants catering to the taste buds of moneyed visitors who expect what they like everywhere they go and are willing to pay for it. It’s one of the call signs of new India; life resembles an airport – hunger is addressed not by eating affordable food but by demonstrating that one has the capacity to afford no matter what the cost.

Still, given my need had been whittled down to just the local bread or something similarly basic, I was hopeful of defiant culinary islands holding out against market forces. My search for Ladakhi food brought me to a kitchen at one end of Leh’s market and a conversation with the owners who highlighted the nutritional and economic sense in local food but admitted they too had succumbed to the new trend. “ It is affordable and it is nutritious,” the lady in the kitchen said before throwing her hands up to signal larger forces at play. There wasn’t a market big enough to support an eatery focused on Ladakhi food. On the bright side, the conversation was good. It’s the usual case, when two parties equally disappointed with contemporary drifts, meet. The kitchen had one customer. He sat there eating, quietly. At the end of my chat with the owner of the enterprise, the customer recommended that I try a kitchen elsewhere in town, which continued to offer local cuisine. That’s how I met Nilanjan. I was contemplating what to do, at the junction where Zangsti Road met Changspa Road and Sankar Road, when he emerged from the eatery. In season of Ladakh Marathon, his physicality hinted of cyclist. A short Q&A proved it right. A few days later, we conversed over lunch at a dhaba nearby.

An only child, Nilanjan Guha Majumder grew up in Uttarpara, Kolkata. His father worked with Customs & Central Excise; his mother was a housewife and entrepreneur. He did his schooling at Amarenda Vidyapith. He took to swimming when he was eight years old. Cycling was an early entrant to his life; it was his mode of transport in Uttarpara, famous for hosting Hindustan Motors, manufacturers of the Ambassador car, an icon of the India before economic liberalization. During his school days, Nilanjan loved playing cricket and featured in competitions up to the district level. College changed all that. Life became focused on academics (he still found time for volleyball and athletics). He graduated in computer studies from an institution in Bengaluru and then followed that up with a masters from Kolkata. Then, he joined Tech Mahindra in Pune. He also took a transfer back to Kolkata.

From Nilanjan’s rides in Ladakh / en route to Mahe, returning from Hanle (photo: Nilanjan Guha Majumder)

In 2007, he married his long-time girlfriend, who he knew from his schooldays. He shifted employment to Cognizant. Then, a while later, tragedy struck. Over five years spanning 2010 to 2015, both his parents and his grandmother, passed away. That was three people close to him, gone. “ I realized that nothing is permanent,’’ he said. In 2018-2019, Nilanjan and his wife decided to separate (the divorce came through in 2020). They remain good friends. In 2019, he shifted back to Bengaluru and acquired a new partner but the relationship broke up within a year.

Around the same time, he also resigned from Cognizant. It happened gradually, like something progressed towards. Prior to leaving the company, COVID-19 had struck humanity. The pandemic reauthored office operations and work styles worldwide. Just when office as surrogate home became fashionable, the virus dispatched everyone back home and made an office of it. For those not part of any herd, it must have been a time of engaging options around how to design one’s life. Nilanjan decided to travel and work remotely. He worked as a volunteer at a farm in Mysore. The farm house was beautiful and life there was calm and peaceful. The volunteering gave him time to think and make up his mind on what to do – among them, find the resolve to resign his job. The urge to quit had been building up over the preceding months. Volunteering helped him see things in perspective and find the courage to actually put in his papers. Now, educated, experienced and between jobs, he volunteered full time at the farm. He also taught children at the local village.

The owner of the farm was a dropout from the corporate world, who wished to start a school with a difference. Thanks to COVID, the situation was so bad that such plans had to be put on hold. Nilanjan had to move. He did so; to Guhagar on Maharashtra’s Konkan coast and another farm, where he volunteered. Amidst the new stint at volunteering, he also operated as a guide for tourists arrived to indulge in adventure sports. But a disagreement between the business partners concerned, saw the enterprise he worked at, shut down. Courtesy social media, he found another opportunity to volunteer in Himachal Pradesh. The location was near Banjar. According to Nilanjan, he was supposed to run a café in partnership with the owner of the facility; the larger enterprise was to be a travel company with focus on outings in the Tirthan Valley.  Around July 2022, he packed his bags and left Guhagar for Himachal Pradesh. Set to follow him, was a parcel.

From Nilanjan’s rides in Ladakh / camping in a meadow the day before crossing Wari La (photo: Nilanjan Guha Majumder)

Six years earlier, in 2016, Nilanjan had taken to cycling in a manner more committed than the commuting of his childhood. With a LA Sovereign MTB for steed, he had joined a cycling club in Kolkata. The Sovereign soon gave way to a Montra MTB. As his interest picked up and he met serious cyclists, he acquired a Java Velos 2 road bike. He took the Java with him, when he shifted to Bengaluru, a city known for its regular bicycle races and activities around cycling. During one of his rides in the city, he met Anand (Andy) and joined the latter’s cycling group. He also started going for trail runs at Avalahalli. After much use, the Java was sold to a person in Chennai. Nilanjan contacted Venkatesh Shivarama (Venky) of WheelSports in Bengaluru to buy a Polygon Bend R2, a gravel bike (it is capable of both tarmac and offroad and can be used for bikepacking trips). The new bicycle was delivered to Nilanjan in Pune. He rode it all the way to Guhagar. And when he shifted to Himachal Pradesh, the Polygon followed; it was parceled to him by Sunil Kumar Sahu, who Nilanjan trusts with transporting his bicycle. On the map, Nilanjan was now parked in Himachal Pradesh, south of Ladakh, a region loved by cyclists, climbers, hikers, runners – indeed anyone who likes freedom and exploration.

In some ways, the whole thing wasn’t accidental. Ladakh had been on Nilanjan’s mind from two to three years before his shift to Tirthan Valley. He had this vague idea of a plan – cycle from Himachal to Ladakh to Kashmir, Gujarat and South India before linking back to Kolkata. “ I had no idea what to expect. I am not a goal-oriented guy. I am a curious person, someone who keeps learning and possibly therefore, develops skills,’’ he said. Meanwhile, life in Tirthan wasn’t playing out as he would have wished it to. It seemed time to move again and explore. His former wife, who had stayed a good friend, pitched in to help. On July 28, 2022, Nilanjan set off for Ladakh on his Polygon. He proceeded to Manali and onward through the new Atal Tunnel to Sisu. There he met two friends from Kolkata and cycled with them to Sirchu. From thereon, he cycled alone. He rode via Tso Kar, Puga and Hanle to Leh, reaching there around August 20. After a brief halt, he cycled via Wari La to Nubra and returned to Leh via Khardung La. “ By now, I was in love with Ladakh,’’ he said.

The quest now was to figure out a means to hang on. Nilanjan likes photography. He approached a studio in Leh to see if the pictures he had taken, would sell. During the ensuing interaction with Rigzin and his uncle, Lobsang Visudha, Nilanjan came to know of the possibility of teaching computer applications to school children. He volunteered at Mahabodhi Residential School at Choglamsar in Leh. He taught computer studies for two and a half months. Over time, that volunteer work evolved into a proper job. From March 2023, he has been teaching there as a regular employee. Nilanjan is now a school teacher in Leh. According to him, his salary is considerably lower than what the IT industry used to pay him. But he has peace. In comparison, it was difficult to find peace in a corporate environment. During his days of volunteering at the school, he made friends with the local people. They helped him find an affordable place to stay in Leh.  “ This phase has given me a strong sense of purpose. I like guiding students,’’ he said adding that he now has a feeling of having found what he was looking for.

From Nilanjan’s rides in Ladakh / on the approach to Tso Kar (photo: Nilanjan Guha Majumder)

When I met him in September 2023, Nilanjan led an active lifestyle mixing regular workouts, running and cycling with his newfound role of school teacher. On weekends, he went for long bicycle rides (we met at the dhaba after he had finished a trip up and down, Khardung La). The Polygon has held up well, he said. He made one modification to the bicycle – he replaced the rear chainrings, originally of a 11-32 configuration, with a 11-34. It helped him get a better gear ratio for climbs. Else, the bike is pretty much unaltered. Being a gravel bike designed to do bikepacking trips as well, its gearing doesn’t have the wide range of the classic tourer’s. But Nilanjan says, he hasn’t had reason to complain despite life in Ladakh. On long trips, he rides with loaded panier bags. So far, the bicycle has tackled all the uphill, downhill and flat terrain thrown at it.

A couple of days after this chat, a friend and I had Ladakhi food at the kitchen Nilanjan recommended. It was good. But above all, finding Ladakhi food amidst the predictable trends of the market, was a pleasure.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai)    

MY ROAD TO THE FINNISH FINISH LINE

Corina (Cocky) Van Dam; at the Vinfast Ironman 70.3 World Championship 2023, in Lahti, Finland (photo: courtesy Cocky)

As age category winner in Ironman 70.3 Goa in 2022, I was eligible to register for the Vinfast Ironman 70.3 World Championship 2023 in Lahti, Finland. I dreamt of participating in a world championship when I was a young girl but never thought that this dream would come true at the age of 58…!

My development from athlete to triathlete has been an organic one. I have always loved sports and through the years (and the accumulation of age) I had increasingly started loving the volume of work-outs rather than the intensity. The longer a practice or race, the more interesting I found it to be. However, in order to not finish last in the world championship (which was my goal!), I had to increase the intensity of my workouts and speed / pace in the different elements. To cut a long story short…, though I had an excellent cycling coach in Abishek Avhad, I had not been able to cut a substantial chunk of my race time when it mattered. But the success that I celebrate is that I finished as nr. 141 out of 161 in my age category (mission accomplished!).  And although I feel a bit ashamed that `my fans’ celebrate me as if I am the world champion, I am proud that I have been able to finish in a world championship surrounded by excellent athletes while enjoying the event to the fullest.

The challenges that I had to overcome prior to the race, were ‘swimming in a wetsuit’ and the thought of swimming in ‘cold water.’ With my Ironman (IM) travel mate Ritesh Thakkar, I took advantage of the public open water swimming spaces in Helsinki, where residents of the city dip in the water for their morning swim. I was so relieved when the water appeared to be ‘only’ 19.5 degrees Celsius cold. The Ironman practice swim in Lahti gave me the confidence that I would manage this leg. It seemed easy: no loops, no mass start, buoys with numbers and a finish line that could be seen from a distance. However, I was seriously intimidated by all those athletic bodies in shiny black wetsuits. The three women from Singapore said to me what I thought of every other athlete present: “ We hope you’re not in our age category…!’’  I received another shock during the bike check-in, the day before the race. While I checked the simplest Scott road-bike in, the poor thing was surrounded in Transition 1 (T1) by equipment from a different family: TT bicycles, carbon frames with disk wheels, aerodynamic helmets….

Corina (Cocky) Van Dam; from the Vinfast Ironman 70.3 World Championship 2023 (photo: courtesy Cocky)

As we were commuting from Helsinki to Lahti by train, we tried to do as many of the activities on the day of our registration, such as the welcome dinner and the Parade of Nations, so that we could meet other participants. I represented the Netherlands and I joined the group of Dutch people lining up behind the red-white-blue flag. As during an Olympic Games opening, we walked through Lahti Stadium which is situated at the bottom of three spectacular ski jumping hills (with a swimming pool at the landing) and waved at everyone who wanted to wave at us. The commute also gave us a chance to talk to ordinary Finnish travellers, IM participants and their families from different countries. During one of the trips – a special morning train from Helsinki on event day (like the Tata Mumbai Marathon train but only with triathletes) – we sat with the family of Steven McKenna, one of the professional triathletes. We could not get enough of listening to stories about his preparations and attitude towards the sport.

The world championship was held over two days. The first day was for us, women. From my first step in Helsinki Central Station to the last in the evening, I was surrounded by vibrant female concentration, power and energy. Countless were the moments that I felt emotional.

Not the least, when the professionals were being introduced to the audience and lined up for the race. After the Finnish national anthem, we could hear a pin drop in anticipation of the race start. And there they went… the pros, our role models, kicking off the long-anticipated event.

I was thrilled to participate with 2000 other participants in a women’s only race. As female triathletes in India, we are always surrounded by male participants. Often, there are only a few women present and I have been in races where I was the only one registered in my age category. I cannot describe how exciting it was to stand at the starting line with 160 women of my own age: wrinkles, grey hair peeking out from under our green swimming caps and singing and dancing to the music in our tight wetsuits that showed our trained and toned bodies in all their glory. Of course, I panicked when the swim started, as I always do. This time my contact lens moved when I jumped into the water. I immediately realised that if I lost it, I would not have any replacement or glasses for the rest of the race since the start / finish (the ‘Finnish finish line’) / Transition 1 and Transition 2 were all in different places. Shubham Vanmali, one of India’s great ultra swimmers and a recipient of the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure (sport) Award once told me that cold water amplifies fear. I did not allow this to happen. I managed to control myself and started enjoying the swim though my timing was not as it could have been.

Corina (Cocky) Van Dam; from the Vinfast Ironman 70.3 World Championship 2023 (photo: courtesy Cocky)

The cycling route was one loop through a rolling landscape. We crossed forests, meadows, and a few villages. The roads were closed and we just had to pedal without fear for upcoming traffic or potholes. Of course, there are always too many hills and there is too much head wind. After 30 kilometres of cruising, the road made a sharp bend and an awful hill showed its ugly face. At the sudden start of the climb, I approached another athlete and joked: “ I did not see this coming.” It happened to be Maitreyi Bokil and we both laughed. I managed to overtake a few triathletes but have especially learnt to recognize the sound of TT bikes closing in on me from behind. After the race, I kidded that I had overtaken 10 cyclists and had been overtaken by 100. Since there were many (younger) age categories that started behind us (the 55–59-year-olds), it did not matter. But of course, it always hurts.

With the run, in sight, I was relieved that I had completed the riskier activities (being caught by fear / cold during swimming – one female triathlete died during the swim – or a mechanical issue while cycling) which can end one’s race prematurely. The half marathon was fun. As on the cycling route, the residents of Lahti were sitting in front of their houses with their families, cheering us on. They sat in their foldable chairs, ringing cowbells or banging pots and pans with spoons. The run was two laps and it was painful to see athletes keeping right and head towards the finish while we had to start our second loop. When I used a hill to consume one of my LEAP gels, I heard my name and Ketaki Sathe flew past me. Wow! My running time was the same as during my last triathlon event and my overall timing was a carbon copy of Ironman 70.3 Goa in 2022.

It is a good practice during Ironman races that every athlete is as welcomed as the winner among the professionals is. With 15,000 volunteers, all 6000 participants received the support that we needed. After the race, no idlis or upma but pizza, hotdogs, ice cream, muffins, chips and Coke….! Race day was party time.

Corina (Cocky) Van Dam; from the Vinfast Ironman 70.3 World Championship 2023 (photo: courtesy Cocky)

The next day, I had a chance to watch the 4000 men racing. I thought I would have a quiet day but as it happened, I had to run up and down Lahti to see the professionals start their swim, run to T1 to see them finish and start cycling, run back to see Ritesh start his swim 2.15 hours after the professionals started (take pictures for his family at home), run to the road to see the professionals heading to T2, run back to watch Ritesh finish his swim and transition in T1 (another picture), and in a hurry run to the finish to watch the pros completing their case…  I walked 23 kilometres as recovery, the day after my race. But it was great to watch without pre-race day tension, cheer the Indian participants on and experience the race as spectator from the first to the last finisher.

I had an unforgettable time as amateur / tourist, but it became clear that I am in no position to compete with the best in my age category at a world championship. Participating has been a humbling experience. It has shown me how privileged I am that I had learnt swimming, cycling and running from a young age so that I could participate in a race like this. I could also afford to pay for the registration, flight and accommodation which is not the case for many of the age group winners in India and others in the Global South. For now, the Ironman World Championship remains an event for the privileged ones. And this privileged one needs to step up if she wants to be more than just a tourist at another Ironman 70.3 World Championship.

(The author, Corina [Cocky] Van Dam works with an NGO. She lives in Mumbai.)

2022 GGR / WRAP-UP

Abhilash Tomy and Kirsten Neuschafer (this photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of 2022 GGR and is being used here for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

An overview, till early May 2023, of the 2022 edition of a fantastic race

Like some who watch the David Lean classic ` Lawrence of Arabia’ finding the desert the film’s real hero, the actual hero of GGR is the sea – its known tendencies and its unpredictability. None, not even the world’s best sailors, are spared.

As of late April, of the 16 sailors who commenced the 2022 Golden Globe Race (GGR), only three were left in the main race category. Two stood pushed to the Chichester Class. The rest had retired. This included two major accidents – a case of a boat sinking in the Indian Ocean in November 2022 and another of a boat rolled and dismasted in the southern Atlantic Ocean in April 2023. Nothing captured the sea’s effect on a race and those tracking it, as well as this comment posted on GGR’s Facebook page after the world was informed of Kirsten Neuschafer being seven nautical miles from finish and without wind to push her on, “ All of us on the YouTube live chat are pointing hairdryers, leaf blowers out windows and waving towels and beach blankets towards coastal France!’’ By afternoon, April 28, the situation must have felt similar for Abhilash Tomy and his fans too. He was expected at Les Sables-d’Olonne that day but thanks to prevailing weather conditions, the ETA (Expected Time of Arrival) stood revised to late morning April 29.

Over four and a half years after a storm in the Indian Ocean left him badly injured, Abhilash Tomy finished second in the 2022 Golden Globe Race (GGR).  According to the event’s live tracker and Facebook page, he crossed the finish line at Les Sables-d’Olonne in France after completing the race’s mandated solo, non-stop circumnavigation of the planet, at 04:46 hours Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) on Saturday, April 29, 2023. The race was won by Kirsten Neuschafer of South Africa. Sailing in the Minnehaha, she reached Les Sables-d’Olonne at 19:44 UTC on April 27, 2023. The 2022 GGR had got underway on September 4, 2022.

Simon Curwen (this photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of 2022 GGR and is being used gere for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

The first among the 2022 GGR participants to reach Les Sables-d’Olonne after a full circumnavigation done, was Simon Curwen of United Kingdom. He had led the race by a considerable margin for much of the voyage before the need to repair his boat forced him to deviate to coastal Chile, relegating him to the Chichester Class (sailing with one stopover) of the race. With that he stopped being one of the contenders for a podium finish in the main GGR, which requires solo, non-stop sailing. However, Simon caught up with the competitors who had gone past him during that halt in Chile, overtook them and finished ahead of all in the early afternoon (10:38 UTC) of April 27, 2023.

By evening the same day, the winner of the 2022 GGR, Kirsten Neuschafer of South Africa, reached Les Sables-d’Olonne becoming in the process, the first woman to win a round-the-world race by the three great capes across the solo / crewed and solo / non-stop categories. She is also the first South African sailor to win such an event. Her voyage as part of the 2022 GGR was remarkable not just for the quality of sailing she showed but also the rescue of fellow GGR participant, Tapio Lehtinen. The rescue happened in November 2022. Lehtinen’s boat sank suddenly in the Indian Ocean forcing him to transfer to a lifeboat. Neuschafer was awarded the Rod Stephen Seamanship Trophy by the Cruising Club of America for the rescue. The intervention, also fetched her time-credit in the race, as compensation.

Two things set the GGR apart from other races involving circumnavigation of the planet. Given it has the flavour of a retro-sailing event, some aspects of technology and access to technology permitted for the race have been pegged back to what prevailed a few decades ago. Second, a non-stop voyage around the planet takes a massive toll on both sailor and boat. This is where Abhilash’s story becomes special. In 2013 he had become the first Indian to complete a solo, non-stop circumnavigation in a sailboat (INSV Mhadei) as part of the Indian Navy’s Sagar Parikrama project, conceived and overseen by the late Vice Admiral Manohar Awati. A few years later, in 2018, he had participated in that year’s GGR only to end up with serious injury to self and his boat (Thuriya) dismasted, following a severe storm in the southern Indian Ocean. But he fought his way out from that reversal of fortune; he underwent surgery and rehabilitation and eventually got back to flying and sailing, the activities that defined him as a naval aviator and one of the all-time greats of Indian sailing. He then signed up for the 2022 edition of the GGR and returned to the race with the Bayanat; the boat was named after his main sponsor for the voyage, a company from the United Arab Emirates (UAE) specializing in AI-powered geospatial intelligence.

This video posted by the 2022 GGR is from the segment spanning Cape Town to Hobart. Starting with the days around Tapio Lehtinen’s rescue, it provides a feel of what being at sea is. Also, Abhilash was under considerable stress in the portion of the race leading to the location of his 2018 accident in the southern Indian Ocean; a conversation with race organizers near Cape Town revealed this. By the time he got to the check point at Hobart, he was past that rendezvous, relieved and in a cheerful mood.

Now retired from the Indian Navy, Abhilash’s passage in the 2022 GGR wasn’t easy. Although he kept himself in the pack of race leaders, the position probably revealed little of what he was actually enduring. He knew the sea, the challenges pertaining to weather and maintaining the boat. But in 2022, there was a new ingredient in the mix – his mind, still living the memories of the September 2018 accident. It was clear to those tracking the 2022 race and reviewing videos posted from the periodic rendezvous with sailors at check points that Abhilash was battling anxiety in the portion of the GGR leading to the southern Indian Ocean, where in 2018, he had been battered by a storm. This was vindicated by his admission (in communications with the race organizers) of a peace finally found after he got past the site of the 2018 accident. Thereafter, it was a different Abhilash. His worries from that point on, seemed mostly about addressing the needs of his boat which kept developing a litany of complaints. But he responded creatively and found solutions for the problems without resorting to a stopover for repairs. He improvised with what he had aboard. This approach kept him alive in the main, competitive segment of the race featuring solo, non-stop circumnavigation. Amidst this struggle, he coped with his old injuries acting up as a consequence of long hours of work, steering and maintaining the boat. What reached Les Sables-d’Olonnes on April 29, should therefore be a package of Abhilash and Bayanat that captures single handed sailing over an extended period of time. Saturday (April 29, 2023) was the 236th day since commencement of the race. 

Abhilash and Bayanat (this photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of 2022 GGR and is being used here for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

For a race of this dimension, the boat matters. During the 2018 GGR, Abhilash’s boat had been the Thuriya, a replica of the Suhaili, in which Sir Robin Knox-Johnston had completed the world’s first solo, non-stop circumnavigation and won the original Sunday Times Golden Globe Race of 1968-1969. The Suhaili was bult in Mumbai; Thuriya in Goa. To compete in the 2022 GGR, Abhilash bought a Rustler 36 type of yacht in France; it was then renamed Bayanat. The boat had been used in the 2018 GGR by Philippe Peche of France. As per information on Wikipedia, of the 16 sailors who commenced the 2022 GGR, four – including Abhilash – had boats of the Rustler 36 type. Kirsten Neuschafer’s Minnehaha is a Cape George Cutter (CG36) while Simon Curwen’s Clara and Michael Guggenberger’s Nuri are both Biscay 36. At the time of writing, Guggenberger (he is from Austria) was in third place with roughly 488 nautical miles left to finish. South Africa’s Jeremy Bagshaw sailing in the Olleanna (OE32 type of yacht) was second in Chichester Class and 1621 nautical miles away from Les Sables-d’Olonne.

In a video posted on the GGR Facebook page, Abhilash could be seen saying soon after his arrival at Les Sables-d’Olonne in France that this is the first time an Asian is securing a podium finish in a round-the world race of any format. “ It’s a big moment for me,’’ he said. Responding to a message from Admiral R. Hari Kumar, chief of the Indian Navy, congratulating him on his achievement, Abhilash recalled the support he had received from the senior officer when in 2018 he put in his resignation because he wished to attempt the GGR and was unsure he would be able to do that through the navy. The admiral was at that time, head of HR in the navy. “ He understood the importance of GGR and he pushed the boundaries of a lot of rules to make sure that I was here,’’ Abhilash said, adding that when he had the accident in the 2018 GGR (his boat, Thuriya, was dismasted and he suffered serious injury in a storm in the southern Indian Ocean), the admiral had been in the operations room directing the rescue.

“ I am happy to have completed the circle. The stigma of losing a boat…I didn’t want to, you know, once is an accident, twice is a habit! So, I really wanted to get Bayanat back and I can tell you, Bayanat got me back,’’ Abhilash said. Asked about the impact of his podium finish in India, Abhilash pointed out how small the number of yachts in all of India was. From that backdrop, if he could think of a circumnavigation race and complete it, it meant the youngsters of India can do a lot. Comparing the two solo, non-stop circumnavigations he has done so far, Abhilash said that the INSV Mhadei was a big boat, one that kept you safe as long as you made sure that nothing happened to it. It didn’t demand a lot. “ But a small boat with wind pilot and no GPS is a hundred times more difficult. But at the same time, I want to say that if that circumnavigation had not happened, I would not have dreamt of coming for GGR. So, they are important in their own places but a GGR is a hundred times tougher than what I did in 2013.’’

The Puffin adrift at sea following the rescue of Ian Herbert Jones (this photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of 2022 GGR and is being used here for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

The second major mishap of the 2022 GGR happened on day 218 of the race (around April 10, 2023) in the Atlantic Ocean. According to the first report on the incident on the GGR website, Ian Herbert Jones of the United Kingdom and his boat Puffin, found themselves in ` extreme weather and confused seas.’’ Ian was unable to launch his drogue (a conical / funnel shaped-device towed behind a boat that is used to reduce speed and improve stability) to keep the boat stern to the waves and avoid being rolled. In the extreme conditions, he had been washed out of the cockpit twice. With communication, including via satellite phone, rendered erratic by the prevailing conditions, Ian had activated his Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB). Things appear to have escalated fast.  A few hours later, the Puffin’s distress alert button was activated and with it the rescue coordination centre in Argentina was informed of the emergency at sea. Soon thereafter, a text message from the Puffin said that the boat had been rolled and dismasted, there was two feet of water within and its skipper, having injured his back was finding it “ hard to move.’’ Ian got the water ingress under control but by then, he had also gashed his head. On day 219 of the race, Ian was rescued by the Taiwanese fishing vessel Zi Da Wang.

Storms and freaky weather conditions aren’t the only things that trigger retirement in endurance races. In solo, non-stop sailing, the boat he / she is in, is every sailor’s floating house. It is what shields sailor from the elements. Its maintenance is a constant job. Equipment aboard may malfunction or break down. The hull may gather barnacles and slow down the boat’s progress in water. Monitoring, cleaning and repairing – it keeps going on. Depending on what is available and what isn’t, one may require to be creative on the repairs. The paradigm of a race, enhances the importance of these aspects. In solo sailing, all this has to be done by oneself. Limits reached on any of these fronts or quite simply the mind declining to sustain its appetite for such life, can lead to people pulling out.

A summary of the race would be incomplete without a picture of the finish. A circumnavigation is a hell of a lot of distance covered, long enough for people to be separated by vast margins at sea. Yet by the time, Abhilash and Kirsten Neuschafer entered the Atlantic for the second time in their long voyage (this time on the way back to Les Sables-d’Olonne), it was clear that a tight finish was on the cards. Around the equator, the lead separating the two had reduced considerably. At times, they seemed almost parallel to each other on the race’s live tracker. Eventually, Kirsten finished first, Abhilash placed second. For most observers, given a whole planet circumnavigated, both represent endurance sailing at its best.    

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai. This wrap-up is the extended version of two articles by the author published in Telegraph and Rediff.com)

2022 GGR / KIRSTEN NEUSCHAFER IS NOW RACE LEADER

Kirsten Neuschafer (This image was downloaded from the Facebook page of the sailor and is being used here for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

Abhilash Tomy in second place but old injuries act up

The 2022 Golden Globe Race (GGR) took a twist recently with British sailor, Simon Curwen, who was leading, opting to enter the Chichester Class following damage to his boat’s windvane in the Pacific Ocean. With this, South Africa’s Kirsten Neuschafer has become the new race leader although she is still separated by a significant distance from Simon.

Indian sailor, Abhilash Tomy, currently in second place (after Simon Curwen shifted to Chichester Class) is not far from Kirsten. An update from January 27, 2023, available on the GGR website and which disclosed the setback suffered by Simon, mentioned that Kirsten and Abhilash are apart by just 50 miles. The race is still far from over; the participants have to cross Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America and sail up the Atlantic Ocean to Les Sables-d’Olonne in France to complete the solo, nonstop circumnavigation of the planet they set out to do.

The current edition of GGR had commenced in early September, 2022, from Les Sables-d’Olonne. It is a repeat of the original GGR of 1968-1969, in which Sir Robin Knox Johnston of the UK became the first person to do a solo, nonstop circumnavigation in a sail boat. Onboard technology levels in the 2022 GGR are pegged to near similar levels as prevailed during the first race decades ago. If the nonstop nature of the race is breached for some reason, then the participant can continue in the Chichester Class, named so after Sir Francis Chichester, who sailed solo around the world (from west to east) with one stop at Sydney, in 1966-1967.  On January 30, the GGR website while confirming Kirsten Neuschafer as the new race leader of 2022 GGR, informed that Simon Curwen would be heading to Chile for repairs. The news of his opting for Chichester Class has been posted on Simon’s Facebook page as well.

Since race commencement in September, there have been drop-outs due to damage to boats and one incident of a boat sinking. There were fifteen men and one woman as participants at the start of the race. As of January 31, 2023, three men and one woman remained in the main competition with three others continuing in Chichester Class. The lone case of a boat sinking – it occurred in the Indian Ocean – had seen the current race leader Kirsten Neuschafer and Abhilash Tomy move to the aid of the stricken sailor, Tapio Lehtinen. Kirsten effected the rescue, a feat that won her the Rod Stephen Seamanship Trophy from the Cruising Club of America.

Abhilash Tomy (This photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of GGR and is being used here for representation purpose. No copyright infringement intended)

Abhilash Tomy was a participant in the 2018 edition of GGR. That time, his boat was rolled over and dismasted in a storm in the southern Indian Ocean. Besides damage to the boat, the mishap left Abhilash with serious injuries to his back. He was eventually rescued in an effort that featured maritime assets from India, France and Australia. Later Abhilash had to undergo surgery and extensive rehabilitation following which, he worked his way back through walking, to sailing and flying planes. Since retired from the Indian Navy, he returned to the GGR as a participant in the 2022 edition. The initial phase of the 2022 race was tough for him as he had to deal with the mental trauma of sailing the seas leading to the region of his 2018 accident and get past the area. Unfortunately, while in the Indian Ocean, he suffered a fall on his back and his old injuries have started acting up under the rigors of solo, nonstop sailing.

When one is alone at sea, one has to do everything aboard the boat oneself and this entails long hours of staying awake and working. The GGR website said in its update of January 30 that Abhilash – he had a recent instance of steering by hand for 12 hours during a gale – has been enduring “ back pain and numb limbs.’’ He spoke to doctors who gave him exercises to regain control of his leg; the medical team has also advised him on pain treatment. He will be resting for some days before returning to his work. However, given he won’t be racing during this time and would be sailing under reduced sail with a view to keep the boat comfortable, it may temporarily make his progress slower and the route longer than that of Kirsten.

“ Abhilash is safe and does not require any assistance and is in complete control. He knows he must rest now, so the pains do not return again. GGR is closely monitoring the situation,’’ the event website said. Abhilash is the first Indian to sail solo and nonstop around the planet in a sail boat. He achieved it in 2012-2013 as part of the Indian Navy’s Sagar Parikrama project.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)

2022 GGR / FINNISH SAILOR RESCUED FOLLOWING MISHAP IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

Finnish sailor, Tapio Lehtinen (This photo was downloaded from the Facebook page of Tapio Lehtinen Sailing and is being used here for representation purpose, No copyright infringement intended)

The 2022 Golden Globe Race (GGR) saw a rescue operation at sea get underway over November 18-19.

Finnish sailor Tapio Lehtinen was the participant rescued; the location was in the southern Indian Ocean. Tapio’s vessel – the Asteria – flooded suddenly and sank. He had to shift to his life raft.

According to the first report of November 18 (available on GGR’s website), Tapio communicated distress at 0645 UTC that morning following which, the race organizers started coordinating with French and South African authorities. “ At 0852 UTC, Tapio also activated his life raft’s PLB indicating that he may have abandoned ship. The life raft also has a VHF radio and GPS packed inside. MRCC Cape Town contacted nearby commercial vessels to divert to his position, with the closest ship 250 miles away,’’ the report said. PLB stands for Personal Locator Beacon.

The GGR entrants nearest to Tapio were India’s Abhilash Tomy (sailing in the Bayanat) and South Africa’s Kirsten Neuschafer (sailing in the Minnehaha). They were 170 miles and 105 miles south-southwest of Tapio, respectively. Both sailors were informed of Tapio’s location. Abhilash, who was the first to receive the message diverted his course accordingly. Tapio’s communication indicated that he was “ able” and had the emergency grab bag containing food, water, and critical equipment with him. The report said, Tapio informed GGR officials that his yacht had flooded from the stern with water up to deck level in five minutes. He was in his survival suit and had boarded the life raft but with no glasses was struggling to write or read text messages.

Same day, with Kirsten successfully contacted and she being the participant closest to Tapio’s position, Abhilash was released from the rescue effort. However, he continued to sail close by and asked to be updated on the progress of the rescue operation. Meanwhile, South African authorities established communication with Captain Naveen Kumar Mehrotra of the Hong Kong-flagged bulk carrier MV Darya Gayatri, to divert and render help. The ship was 250 nautical miles northwest of Tapio’s location.

As per the second report of November 19, Kirsten reached Tapio’s location at 0510 UTC that morning and picked up the Finnish sailor from his life raft. “ Tapio had an early visual on Kirsten’s yacht, but she could not see the life raft in the swell. Kirsten would hear him on the VHF but Tapio could not hear her voice. The GGR Crisis Management Team homed her onto Tapio’s position until they were close enough to see and hear each other to plan for recovery. Kirsten called the GGR Management team at 0805 UTC to confirm that she had retrieved Tapio from the life raft onto Minnehaha with a retrieving line,’’ the report said.

According to it, Tapio has since been shifted to the bulk carrier MV Darya Gayatri. As explained in the report of November 19: “ Kirsten called the GGR Management team at 0805 UTC to confirm that she had retrieved Tapio from the life raft onto Minnehaha with a retrieving line. After sharing a good glass of rum, they then proceeded to put Tapio back in the raft, pulled it towards the carrier, which he then successfully boarded via a rescue ladder.’’

GGR involves a circumnavigation of the planet. The 2022 edition of the race started from France on September 4.

Back in 2018, during the last edition of GGR, Tapio had been among the finishers. This time however, his race has ended in the southern Indian Ocean. As of November 20, GGR’s website said on Tapio’s page (every skipper has a write-up introducing him / her), of the incident causing his exit from the 2022 race, “ Asteria sank in 5 minutes with a strong unidentified water intake from astern. ‘’ A Facebook post by Tapio’s team (its English translation has been made available on the GGR Facebook page) said that the Finnish sailor woke up at around 8.30 AM on Friday (November 18) to a loud bang. At that point, the water was knee-deep in the boat’s saloon. More water flooded the engine compartment at the rear. The situation was dire. “ The most critical moment was when the pull knot of the life raft came loose. Fortunately, the weather was almost calm. I took a long leap into the water, grabbed the board and jumped in,’’ the post quoted Tapio as saying. He watched his yacht slowly sink, “ At the last moment, I stood up shakily in the life raft and put my hand in the cap as a last salute to my friend,’’ he said.

In the 2018 GGR, Abhilash Tomy had suffered accident and injury in the southern Indian Ocean following which, he was rescued in an operation involving Indian, Australian, and French authorities.

As of November 20, 2022, GGR’s live tracker showed Simon Curwen of the UK in the lead. He was followed by Abhilash in second place and Kirsten in third.

(The author, Shyam G Menon, is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai.)